Rust Repair 85 300D
 

My rust free 300D ain't. The rubber grommet for the antenna had long been kaput on this car . I am developing a hole at the rear bottom of the car as a result of this long neglected leak. Should I bite the bullet and have this professionally repaired or can I cut out the bad section, POR-15 the area and use a fiberglass based repair method. I don't know how to weld nor do I have a welding machine.
This is the only area that seems to be having any problems at all. I want to nip it before it creeps into the visible part of the car. Right now, you can only see it if you look for it. The other side is solid with no evidence of any upcoming issues. The only other section needing attention is the front, under the bumper. Years of road debris have sort of sand-blasted this area and a good sanding, rust primer and paint would save it. I intend to keep this car forever. I'm 61, forever won't be too long :-)

As for functionality, the POR and fiberglass will work just fine. If you want the car to be "perfect" then cut, weld, body work, and paint is required. It will drive the same either way. I prefer the price of functionality on a driver myself, but its an individual choice.

Good luck!

Functionality is my goal with judicious preservation as a byproduct. Perfection is generally out of the question, I need to use this car. It's pretty nice as is and to keep it this way will make me happy. I am a perfectionist doing most mechanical things but body work perfection would not be worth the effort for this particular car. at this time anyway.
Thanks

After wire brush and POR-15 type system =>

If I were you I'd have a look at epoxy fillers instead of fibre glass. There's a product called nu metal that isn't really metal but as damn hard as it - well it seems like it! This sort of thing is fine to use on parts that don't need any strength.

I was about to suggest something similar using JB Weld. If the hole is small enough then a metal plate epoxied to the inside of the well (Perhaps Aluminum) with JB weld protruding thru the hole, like bondo, and sanded down and painted should work well I'd think.

- Peter.

Sheet metal, pop rivets, and seam filler
Then paint
Really easy and very strong
no welding required
Just drilling some small holes
Required is a simple pop rivet gun (cheap and some rivets (also cheap)
Better and less nasty than POR 15 and fiberglass
As well as much less expensive

Exactly I have been doing this for years except I use thin aluminum flashing from a hardware store. Won't rust, easy to work with, can be cut with a scissor and strong but not structurally strong, then again neither is sheet metal.