Opinions on This Rust!?
 

I've got another thread going about my trailing arm swap, but thought I'd start this one to get opinions on what my options are based on the extent of this rust.

1. Weld some sheet metal
2. Swap good parts onto a rust free-ish car
3. ?

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...polk/rust2.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...k/boltout2.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...polk/rust1.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ustswaybar.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...kingpoint3.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...kingpoint2.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ckingpoint.jpg

Some of it looks terrible - the stuff in the last picture is bad news - when you get piles of delaminated rust it usually means that there will be more trouble elsewhere.

If you are prepared to be left with just parts and no car I'd have a go at it with an angle grinder and wire brush attachment and do an "Opinions on these holes" thread. Your options then might become a bit clearer.

Some of those look to be in structural areas. I would proceed with extreme caution.

If I were convinced I wanted to keep the car, I would cut all that off... (assuming that's even feasible), weld new metal in, treat with Miracle Paint and/or POR 15, and go from there.

However, just looking at the pictures, I'm thinking that you've got a parts car, I'm very sorry. :(

Packer

If it has to do with the support it should be welded.
The Belly rust in the first pic could be covered with fiber Glass Cloth and Bondo or another Resin type stuff. But, if you are going to weld the other stuff you might as well weld that also.

You have more rust but I think mine was worse. My Rear Cross Member actually cracked and was causing a groaning sound when I backed up.

I bought a Harbor Freight Flux Core Welder ($99 when they have a good sale on it); it comes with one 2lb Spool of Welding Wire.

I am no prize welder with the Material laying flat. For Me it was at least 5 times more difficult time under the Car on my Back.

I delayed doing what I should have done in the first place and that was to get the Car as high as possible off of the Ground with the Equipment I had. The effect was that the last part of the job came out better than the first half because I had more room to work in.


I welded over the Cracks and filled the Hole on the bottom in with weld and ground it down and welded the Plate on the Bottom.

I also welded up 2 holes and a crack I had in one of my Rear Control Arms.

the subframe connectors are ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL, and I see no repair method I'd trust.
the other rusting areas could be cleaned out, and patched to look better, but they'd never be as good as new. I'm amazed the jack points are as good as they are, with that much rust in the car. take all your new parts and put them back in boxes, and get a nice car with zero rust, or less rust in the critical areas...
I'm sorry.

In general I agree with what Diesel911 says here. However, I would NOT cover rust with fiberglass cloth and bondo! That will NOT stop rust. I know, I did it in the past, and the rust just keeps right on going.

You MUST remove all structurally-unsound rust, and then encapsulate the rust with something like POR15 or Miracle Paint (Kent Bergsma) with several coats. THEN you can place fiberglass with Miracle Paint acting as the resin.

Bottom line is, on all non-structural areas, you can patch with fiberglass, but the rust must be hermetically-sealed against air and water intrusion, or you are just hiding the problem and making it worse!

Sincerely,

Packer

I've got an 82 300D that is rust free and runs good that I'll sell for a price that is probably lower than it will take to fix all that.

You have significant structural rust here, The question is, what are you worth? Are you worth the difference btw staying alive or getting injured or worse in an accident that depends on the integrity of your car? I know my answer on that.

Scrap it.

All the chemo and radiation in the world isn't saving that patient. Stop putting anymore new parts on it.

Indy-Benz, I hate to say this, but I think that car is done in. I have been reading your other posts, would love to see you succeed, but short of rebuilding that car from the ground up, (See some of Army's Post's) I would say stop what you are doing, the new parts that you have purchased can be returned, (if not you can always sell them on the forum). You are looking for transportation, and that is not the way to go. Write it off to experience, tow it if you can too "Pic a Part" and you can get about $600.00 for it. Get yourself some basic transportation for now and when a rust free car comes available, (you won't find it in Indy or Chicago) snap it up. But anything you look at in this area and north is very suspect and I would not buy it. You have to go south, Atlanta, Florida, and Texas. I junked out my 85 300D three years ago and it looked like a cream puff compared to what I see of yours and I didn't see mine as being repairable.

rust free
 

Rust free cars can be found in the Memphis area. I wouldn't attempt to fix the rust unless the car held a high degree of sentimental value to me.....like my Dad bought it brand new. Rust is a big killer of these old MBs.

My '82 was way worse, I'd drive it into the ground and not bother with throwing money at it.

I totally agree with this post! It's NOT worth getting injured or killed. It's time to scrap it, or use it as a parts car.

Sincerely,

Packer

I did not mean it would stop the rust. Welding itself will also not stop the rust.

You need to get rid of the Rust before you do either.

For some reason Mercedes decided to punch a bunch of Holes in the Rear Cross Member. In short that left openings for internal rust to start.

There used to be stuff you could use with a Sprayer with a Nozzle you could position (was sold by JC Whtney&Co) to spray in antirust chemicals inside of areas. But, I doubt if it would seal everthing inside.