where to find Windshield sealant, non-hardening type...

[rebreath]

the proper rear windshield sealant(non-hardening goop around glass in gasket and around gasket in frame).Not something that startek lists as a part and even dealer says "dunno".any thoughts?

[KAdams4458]

You know, I have an MB part number for that somewhere. Let me check my research, and I'll post back with the results.

*EDIT: Got it. The number is 001 989 31 20. I can't access the EPC to check it out, for some reason. May, or may not be valid. If it isn't, there is a version that can be obtained that's made by 3M, or similar. I don't know the part numbers, or who makes the stuff, but it exists. See what you can do with the number I supplied, first.

[whunter]

Here it is.

Item Number: 0019893120
Main Category: MB
Sub Category: Glass
Description: Windshield sealant, non-hardening type
Manufacturer: MBSC
Weight: 1.000

[KAdams4458]

Ooh! Yes! Nailed it!

...Sorry, it's been a frustrating night, and I'll take any victory I can get.

Now, the 64-cent question is, how far does one tube go? That, I can't answer. For those of us looking to replace front and rear seals, it would be nice to know if we need more than one tube, or not. Perhaps someone here knows.

[Dee8go]

Is the rear window sealant different from the front windshield sealant?

[KAdams4458]

Originally Posted by Dee8go

Is the rear window sealant different from the front windshield sealant?

Nope. The MB glass replacement instructions I possess indicate the same stuff is used front and rear. Of course, I don't know everything, and my instructions apply only to W123 cars.

[rebreath]

for the part # Roy and company.As to the amount and how far it goes I will let you guys know since I will be ordering some to put my rear glass back after I repair the rust.
Just an asides.....is it possible that one contributer to the rear window rust is the rear defrost?As it warms the glass a small amount of liquid is produced and it goes to the bottom of the seal.20+ years later,voila ....rust in the channel.just a thought.

[Hatterasguy]

When I did mine the dealer got it for me.

[charmalu]

Last yr I had my rear window gasket replaced. the guy installed it dry.
I asked him about sealant, and he said MB puts them in dry, no sealant.

The reason I replaced it was the trunk was getting wet on the left side.
A couple days later it rained and the trunk was soaked.

I bought a tube of 3M windshield sealant, think it was the urathane the
shops use. I lifted up the gasket starting from the middle of the window
and put a bead under the rubber down the side and across the trunk.
Hasn`t leaked a drop since. I think the tube was $14.00.

But then what do you expect for $150.00.

Charlie

[Hatterasguy]

He is full of crap, it says right in the FSM to use sealent.

[KAdams4458]

Originally Posted by rebreath

for the part # Roy and company.As to the amount and how far it goes I will let you guys know since I will be ordering some to put my rear glass back after I repair the rust.
Just an asides.....is it possible that one contributer to the rear window rust is the rear defrost?As it warms the glass a small amount of liquid is produced and it goes to the bottom of the seal.20+ years later,voila ....rust in the channel.just a thought.

I have noticed that the condensation formed on the inside of windows can accumulate to the point that it runs down the glass to the joint on pretty much all cars. Many older cars exhibit water damage below the glass on the inside, whether they have leaking window seals, or not. The old Chevy work truck that my parents had comes to mind. It had no seal leaks, yet there were trails of dirt indicating water had run down the sheet metal beneath the rear glass on the inside of the cab when I first inherited it.

I suspect that cars with rear window defrost grids actually may suffer less from this problem, as the grid, when it is active, heats the glass, and assists water in vaporising back in to the air. Warm damp air contacting a cold surface, such as exterior glass is what causes condensation to form, which is how warming the glass with that resistive electrical grid can actually reverse and prevent condensation from forming.

And please do let us know how much comes in a tube, and just how much is needed to do your quantity of glass. I would love to not only know for my own personal reasons, but would also happily supply the information to others for years to come.

[rs899]

I use a 3M product called something like glass and bedding compound. Costs about $9 for a standard caulk-gun type tube at a body shop supply place.

[rebreath]

Originally Posted by KAdams4458

I have noticed that the condensation formed on the inside of windows can accumulate to the point that it runs down the glass to the joint on pretty much all cars. Many older cars exhibit water damage below the glass on the inside, whether they have leaking window seals, or not. The old Chevy work truck that my parents had comes to mind. It had no seal leaks, yet there were trails of dirt indicating water had run down the sheet metal beneath the rear glass on the inside of the cab when I first inherited it.

I suspect that cars with rear window defrost grids actually may suffer less from this problem, as the grid, when it is active, heats the glass, and assists water in vaporising back in to the air. Warm damp air contacting a cold surface, such as exterior glass is what causes condensation to form, which is how warming the glass with that resistive electrical grid can actually reverse and prevent condensation from forming.

And please do let us know how much comes in a tube, and just how much is needed to do your quantity of glass. I would love to not only know for my own personal reasons, but would also happily supply the information to others for years to come.

I ordered some last night.I am SURE it will be here before I finish my rust repairs there.But ,I will absolutely let you guys know how much I used.thanks for the input

[rebreath]

well the stuff came yesterday.looks like it should do at least one whole window.
it is 310 ml/.33 us quarts.when I actually start to use it I will let you folks know how far it went.
Slightly smaller than normal caulking tube.

[Bama1]

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

He is full of crap, it says right in the FSM to use sealent.

Hatteras,
I don't have a FSM (is that a Field Service Manual?) for my year-model so I cannot look it up. Do you suppose that sealant use is probably recommended for some seperate year models but perhaps not for others?

I try to stay as correct to orignal as possible... According to the Tri-Star Mercedes dealer, a dry-fit was the original build procedure for a 1982 W123. That model uses a dual-channel (metal/rubber, rubber/glass) seal with capture and compression type design and not just a single flat glass to rubber interface like subsequent years and some SD.

Both my OEM replacement front and rear seals were installed dry and have performed very well. The glazier guaranteed the installation without a sealant and it has been several years ago (~5 to 7) without any sign of a leak.

I hope I was not mis-guided by my advisor...