It would be a good idea for me to change the subrame mounts. But I am in my 70's and not taking on that job! I would have to get a shop to do it and it is not top of my list of jobs needing doing. However, friends have done it without problem on W123s, so I know it is doable.

Looking at the parts diagrams, it looks like what we see when we look inside the wheel well, is the inner wheel well liner. The parts 65 and 68 is the epc drawing are behind the liner. What is puzzling, is the epc says there is a left and right of parts 65 and 68 indicating that they must nest together! Those parts are apparently available but just one of them (65) would cost C$1600! I will have to forget that idea!

So, it seems we will have to cut away part of the wheel well liner. That will give access to the part that the rubber buffer brackets attach to (65, 68 or both). Then maybe they can be weld repaired.

Klokkerholm are likely in Europe? I will check with my shop and see if they have a NA source of panels, if it turns out they need them.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Haven't concluded this repair yet. But I have had the guy over that will be doing the repair, and he sees no problem doing the repairs. Seems like quite a find because most shops around here are not interested in this type of work.

Meanwhile I have been addressing a number of smaller rust issues. Must run - need some more POR15!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Sorry I didn't get back to you before - you slipped through the net!

If that happens again send me a PM if you really really need an answer. It looks like you've sorted your self out though...

...klokkerholm panels are available in the US. I think their web site is something like fix my rust or fill my holes (?) dot com. You'll have to do a google search for that - though, thinking about it, perhaps with "safe search on" for the second suggestion!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

No problem. Actually the guy who will do my welding is into restoration including old VWs. He says he has a source for the panels, likely from Europe. But at this stage we don't need anything in particular. (maybe will once I uncover the floor pans).

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

This thread made me look at pics of my car, which I recently took after cleaning the wheel wells. It seems the original configuration had a slit in the metal, allowing for moisture to settle inside, and create a rust problem over time.



Maybe what you can do is seal off the slit originally configured to prevent this kind of rust problem. Is there a known reason for the slit/opening in the metal?

Larger image here.

You are right that bracket is badly designed for our climate. Salt and dirt had accumlated inside my brackets. On my car, so far as I can see through the rust, that slit was at back. But maybe it is on both sides?

Question for ARMY & others:

I found this part from Klokkerholm. Does it look like the part that the rubber buffer bracket is welded to on the front side of the rear wheel well?

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

That part is the part that kind of goes forwards from that point we are taking about along the side of the subframe where the subframe mounts are...

(does that make sense?)

...it is kind of like a sill on the inside of the car that only goes as far as the rear seat.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Not totally clear, but last sentence indicates it wouldn't help me.

I would need the piece that goes from rear door sill to spring perch (which is above the rubber buffer bracket). The front half of the piece in the epc pic.

Welder says he can fab it, but it is not a straight forward shape.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Uhhhm...

OK then. In this thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/303669-my-w123-saloon-sedan-old-accident-repair-bit-rust-repair-thread-3.html

The equivalent parts made by Van Wezel (a Belgian panel maker) are part 0003676 and part 0003677 - the last two parts in the list.



Does that help?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

MBeige,

That was going to be my question, how can I stop this from happening to mine, it's going to see some salt this Winter. Anyone ever do anything on rustproofing a W123? I started oiling each door. How about the jack points?
What else?

Thanks,
Dave

Like Graham, I used to live in Ontario where salt abounds. I have a 126 but the weak point we're discussing is sadly identical to the 123. Mine is not as bad as Graham's but needs attention. I use a Canadian product called Rust Check every year - application is messy but it penetrates very small cracks, holes and below loose patches of undercoating. Great stuff. Have a look at their web site and then look for a similar product in the US if you can't find it in your area.