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  #1  
Old 09-02-2012, 04:09 AM
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My Car Broke and needs fixing

My 240D was rear ended the other day on the drivers side by a hit-and-run and I need to get this fixed. The drivers side bumper was pushed in and the trunk lid did not close. The trunk was pushed down as compare to the passenger side.
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My Car Broke and needs fixing-picture-001.jpg   My Car Broke and needs fixing-picture-005.jpg   My Car Broke and needs fixing-picture-002.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 09-02-2012, 04:23 AM
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First stop was body shop

I asked the body shop to stretch and re-align the trunk so that it would close correctly. Looking up what parts may be involved, I suspected that the bumper shock needed to be replaced. Upon picking up the car, the body shop owner stated that the frame rail was extremely rusted and had been bent. I asked him about the bumper shock and he stated that it was fine. My original assessment was to remove the dents above the trim rail with a hammer & dolly. What you cannot see is that the trunk floor pan aft of the wheel arch which is welded to the fender is rusted and ripped also and beyond repair.
The plan was two fold. First was to remove the dent above the trim with a hammer & dolly. The other was to cut out the dented portion below the trim and replace with metal from a replacement panel.
My question is that although the dent can be made to look new, what other issues could it have caused to the unibody ?
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Last edited by steeleygreg; 09-02-2012 at 04:34 AM.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2012, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steeleygreg View Post
...
My question is that although the dent can be made to look new, what other issues could it have caused to the unibody ?
The impact that caused the dent and the process of straightening the body will have caused work hardening within the body panel. You might find that certain parts of the panel are harder to encourage back into their original shape.

My concern would be the edges of the panels though, where they are joined together. If you imagine a rivet in failure mode being pulled through metal sheet the same could have happened for the spot welds. Take a good look at the panel seams. If you are unsure about the integrity of a joint remove the seam sealer to check properly.

If you see any seam sealer that looks like it could do with being refreshed - now is a good time to do it. The long term integrity of the structure is very much dependent on the protection of the seams. If rust sets in between the seams (especially in your climate and mine) you can kiss good bye to the car. Think water management!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #4  
Old 09-02-2012, 03:52 PM
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Took a trip to my favorite tool store, Harbor Freight and picked up a slide-hammer for removing dents. Problem was once I started it started raining.
Well, due to the entire east coast is blanketed with rain from isaac and the fact that it started raining while removing the antenna motor, I wasn't going to start with the sunroof motor for from reading you have to remove the headliner and disconnect the cable. Didn't want the get rain in the car. Well, there is always tomorrow...
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2012, 08:08 PM
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Had some success First I tried the slide-hammer. It didn't work as expected. I guess the metal was a little thick, or as Army suggested hardening within the body panel. So I had to work on another plan. I did and it worked. Using some long strips of hardwood and aluminum plate I had in the garage I setup a system to pull the dent out. Not sure if this was the best method, but it worked.
Attached Thumbnails
My Car Broke and needs fixing-picture-001.jpg   My Car Broke and needs fixing-picture-005.jpg   My Car Broke and needs fixing-picture-009.jpg   My Car Broke and needs fixing-dent-about-out.jpg  

Last edited by steeleygreg; 09-03-2012 at 09:26 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-04-2012, 02:30 AM
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So dolly and hammer next then?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:17 AM
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Correct. To get proper access to the top of the fender, I need to remove the sunroof motor. To do so requires releasing the sunroof cable. That project will get done this week.
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  #8  
Old 09-04-2012, 07:43 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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I'm sure steeleygreg's seen this already but just in case others haven't

PeachPartsWiki: Sunroof Repair

PeachPartsWiki: Sunroof Conversion - Power to Manual
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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