Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > Bodywork - Repair, Paint, Tools, Tips & Tricks

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-14-2012, 09:51 PM
B100
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 206
Opinions on this rust?



This is my '84 wagon, driver side, rear quarter trim strip beneath the quarter glass. On the trim strip there is what looks like a clip that clips onto a rivet kind of attachment that goes through the body at that hole. Unfortunately the rivet is still clipped to the clip, on the strip, and the hole in the body is rusted and crumbling. Its not very big but it looks gnarly.

It'd the only real rusty I've found on the cat and i'd like to fix it. Any ideas, suggestions or methods in which i should try to fix? I'll also need to know how to replicate the hole in the panel and where to get a replacement attaching rivet. Any help is greatly appreciated!
__________________
1984 300TD Turbodiesel - 272k
- Daily Duty

1985 300D Turbodiesel - 315k
- "Recommended for competition events only"
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-15-2012, 03:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,606
how about neutralizing the rust and rebuilding it with clear POR-15, fiber glas sheet and then drilling a hole for the rivet in the fiber sheet.
__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-15-2012, 04:44 PM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
Benzless Scoutmaster
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North Wales, PA
Posts: 4,001
Check out these threads.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/202295-remove-window-seals-repair-rust.html

300TD Quarter Window Removal (w/pics)
__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-15-2012, 11:47 PM
B100
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
how about neutralizing the rust and rebuilding it with clear POR-15, fiber glas sheet and then drilling a hole for the rivet in the fiber sheet.
POR-15 is something I'd consider as a go-between for the metal and paint. I'm not willing to work with fiberglass. I want metal in there.

I know I had seen something similar to what I need before, just couldn't find it again. Do you have any more pics? Like, of the replacement metal and how you attached it? What kind of metal did you use?
__________________
1984 300TD Turbodiesel - 272k
- Daily Duty

1985 300D Turbodiesel - 315k
- "Recommended for competition events only"
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-23-2012, 11:42 PM
jmk jmk is offline
Former Paint Maker
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 346
Fiberglass would be better. Properly installed, it won't fall out and it will never re-rust.

It isn't Bondo.
__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
My '01 Prism is getting very, very old for an everyday car. No more boring cars for everyday transport!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-05-2012, 12:06 AM
B100
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 206
Yeah... but it isn't metal.
__________________
1984 300TD Turbodiesel - 272k
- Daily Duty

1985 300D Turbodiesel - 315k
- "Recommended for competition events only"
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-12-2012, 04:26 PM
jmk jmk is offline
Former Paint Maker
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 346
Concurs restoration or something that will hold up under daily wear and tear?
__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
My '01 Prism is getting very, very old for an everyday car. No more boring cars for everyday transport!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-12-2012, 04:34 PM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
Benzless Scoutmaster
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North Wales, PA
Posts: 4,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk View Post
Fiberglass would be better. Properly installed, it won't fall out and it will never re-rust.

It isn't Bondo.
I only used Bondo for final smoothing. Now I use POR-15's putty which is moisture curing.

I used JB Weld as an adhesive along with pop rivets and none of my repairs have fallen out or rusted. Other areas have started to rust, but not where I've done repairs already and it's been about 5 years.
__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-12-2012, 04:40 PM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
Benzless Scoutmaster
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North Wales, PA
Posts: 4,001
Quote:
Originally Posted by Secondaries View Post
I know I had seen something similar to what I need before, just couldn't find it again. Do you have any more pics? Like, of the replacement metal and how you attached it? What kind of metal did you use?
I used the heaviest gauge sheet metal available at Home Depot (22 gauge).

I showed how I attached the metal in one of the threads. I didn't show how I shaped it, but I used an anvil, sand bag, hammers and for some pieces just used my hands and leg to bend the shape needed.

I would then hold the metal in place and drill all the holes needed, then butter it with JB Weld and pop rivet in place. After the JB Weld cured, I coated both sides of the repair with more JB Weld and then coated it all with POR-15 encapsulator prior to finishing with the POR-15 filler where needed.
__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page