300D (W123) Weld repair of rusted chassis & floorpans - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Graham · #**106** 07-22-2013, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

I think you should take a closer look at the seals that have just come off. If the rust has come back and the sealant / glue has failed because of that then you might be persuaded to drop the last idea. Further more as the channels are pretty thin glass fibre or epoxy "metal" would be pretty difficult to use there.

I favour the refurbishment of the second set of doors - at least you can use what you have whilst they are still on the car.

I pulled the spare doors out of storage. Even although the doors came off a W123 that had spent most of it's life in southern USA, the bottom of the passenger doors are very badly rusted where the seals are (were) attached. But, like my car, the front doors are fine.

So my options 1 & 3 to use spare rear doors are non non-starters.

With doors off, it may be possible to rebuild the channel using fibreglass and epoxy. But, two other possibilities came to mind other than buying the patch panels:

a) - grind away rusted channel at bottom of door. Build up a flat surface using POR/glass/epoxy. Then attach a separate channel made from either plastic, aluminum or stainless. This channel would be just a straight piece, so at corners seal may have to be glued down.
b) - Build up a flat surface using POR/glass/epoxy, but instead of using OE seal at bottom, just glue a flat bottomed hollow rubber or foam seal across the bottom (onto the newly formed flat fibreglass/epoxy surface)

I will have to take doors off to do this work. But that doesn't seem to be too difficult. But this may have to wait until the Fall or next Summer. Already spent too much time on this car.

The patch panels may be best, but if welding ruins outer skin paint, then cost could be quite high - Maybe $800/door based on other work I have had done. Maybe I could glue the patch panels in place? I have had wheel arch repairs done that way.

Graham · #**107** 08-24-2013, 09:19 PM

I have had the front fender liners off because of rust repairs to front of rockers/firewall.

Today I put one of them back on. It no longer fits as well as it did because the firewall area is not exactly the same. I had to put in a few additional screws.

One thing that is apparent, is that the liner creates many pockets and crevices where dirt, salt and moisture can collect.

Has anyone removed the liners permanently?

Without the liner, no doubt more dirt will collect on upper and back areas of fender as well as on cabin side walls. But at least then those areas could be washed out.

whunter · #**108** 08-27-2013, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

I have had the front fender liners off because of rust repairs to front of rockers/firewall.

Today I put one of them back on. It no longer fits as well as it did because the firewall area is not exactly the same. I had to put in a few additional screws.

One thing that is apparent, is that the liner creates many pockets and crevices where dirt, salt and moisture can collect.

Has anyone removed the liners permanently?

Without the liner, no doubt more dirt will collect on upper and back areas of fender as well as on cabin side walls. But at least then those areas could be washed out.

Removing them will increase road gravel impact = much more corrosion in the future.

.

Graham · #**109** 09-16-2013, 10:52 PM

I keep thinking I am getting near the end, and then something else crops up

I had the jack point weld repaired (C182.00) - looks good. Have body/door seals back on. Interior back together and cleaned up.

Decided to check out everything around rear suspension. Nothing serious, but lots of places where paint is off and there is surface rust. Especially at back near muffler which I had to remove.

Lying on back and trying to scrape dirt and rust off and clean off oil and grease with various sprays, none of which seem to work well..... At least I have reasonable clearance - bought a new jack!

Once I get the rear underside rust protected, I will paint the exhaust pipes. Then touch up fender arches. That should be it for this year other than an oil change. I need to get back driving and give my SL a rest!

Next year, need to address rear door lower inside (painted, but not repaired) and find a rear bumper driver side shock. Will try and pick up rust free spare rear trailing arms, just in case!

Stretch · #**110** 09-17-2013, 02:04 AM

Nice jack - some say you'll knacker the rubber in your differential mount lifting the car that way though.

Graham · #**111** 09-17-2013, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Nice jack - some say you'll knacker the rubber in your differential mount lifting the car that way though.

Seems like many owners and shops do lift on diff. Kent at mbsource even has a video showing how to do it! He uses plywood shims and so should I!

Weight is not on mount for long - just long enough to position stands. But I usually leave jack in place as a safety. My stands are on small side. I would like to get some better ones.

I have a spare diff mount (bought for my 107, but I think it is same). But existing one looks fine so not going to mess with it!

Stretch · #**112** 09-17-2013, 03:00 PM

I think we both need two post lifts instead of axle stands and snazzy floor jacks...

Graham · #**113** 09-17-2013, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

I think we both need two post lifts instead of axle stands and snazzy floor jacks...

Right you are!

For a couple of thousand I could have one of these:

MaxJax Portable Two Post Lift by Dannmar | Canada's source for the MaxJax Lift

Stretch · #**114** 09-17-2013, 11:48 PM

Well if the helper is included in the price I'd pick this one

New 2 Post Service Lift Car Truck Automotive Hoist 9000 lb Titan HD2P 9000AC | eBay

Graham · #**115** 09-21-2013, 09:47 PM

Well, the rust repairs are done!

Today, I fixed a couple of small holes under toolkit and spare wheel sumps (with POR/glass). Installed driver side lower door seal. Touched up paint under master cylinder where it had come off, put rear wheels back on (after painting rear suspension). I don't believe there is any "visible" rust anywhere and "most" of the hidden rust has also been attended to. Even the rusty exhaust pipe has been painted!

There are of course always still things to do:
- I need to touch up paint on fender arches. I think I will then spray on some clear stone guard and see if that holds up.
- Needs an oil change and other fluids checked.
- Driver side rear bumper shock is compressed - Should replace.
- Lower inside of rear doors - POR is holding up, but needs a better repair. Maybe next year!

I was going to take a new picture, but car exterior looks almost same as it did before we started almost a year ago!

Graham · #**116** 09-23-2013, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

It's tempting to do a cosmetic repair but honestly I'd cut and weld. While it's true YOU wouldn't use the standard jack it doesn't mean the next guy wouldn't.

Just to conclude this, we did do a weld repair. The welder made his own patch panels (did front earlier) and although they are different from originals, they look OK to me. Still need to give rockers one more coat of rocker guard.

Graham · #**117** 09-28-2013, 12:33 PM

I have car back on road. Looks and runs great! Of course most of the work done is hidden, so car doesn't look any different!

Started a new ToDo list. Major items still to be done are the rear doors. They will have to wait because I need car on road until our new GLK250 comes in December.

I will look for a good set of rust free trailing arms when in USA over winter, just in case. But after treatment I did, I think mine are still solid and good for a while yet.

Today, I was going to run some Krown rust treatment in under all the rubber window and other body seals and trim. First ones I looked at were the side felts on the sunroof. I can see that rust has started again along the edge

I had that area repaired by bodyshop not long ago. They did a nice cosmetic job, but obviously not a rust treatment. I installed the front seal myself and treated everything with POR. It looks fine.

This is a job I can do while car is on road. Felts are quite new, so I hope I can re-use them. Seems to me they were quite expensive (Just checked PP $58.00 each!)

BTW. Just totaled up my expenses since I first posted about selling car about a year ago. Close to $3000 altogether incl taxes. About same as I paid in 2005 for the second go/no go decision point (bodywork done and repaint $3300). First go/No go was when engine needed rebuild in 2001 ($7000). Good part - One less W123 scrapped

Cost per km still lowest of all our cars!

Some pics:

Graham · #**118** 09-29-2016, 06:12 PM

Still going strong!

Bought a set of new Toyo tires for her today. Guess I will be driving her for a while yet!

Stretch · #**119** 09-30-2016, 08:57 AM

Has the white stuff started to fall where you are yet?

Here in Holland we've had a couple of mild winters - strangely enough though the weather just over the channel in the UK has been pretty extreme. Lots of flooding and bad storms.

Graham · #**120** 10-01-2016, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Has the white stuff started to fall where you are yet?

Here in Holland we've had a couple of mild winters - strangely enough though the weather just over the channel in the UK has been pretty extreme. Lots of flooding and bad storms.

White stuff? We don't get that until about Christmas, except sometimes for a few flurries maybe in late Nov, early Dec.

We had a long hot summer. For us that is 25-30C. It lasted for 3-4 months and only ended about a week ago. Now, early Oct, looks like it will be 15-20C.

We don't bother with snow tires - all weathers work for us.