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#1
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Opinions on This Rust!?
I've got another thread going about my trailing arm swap, but thought I'd start this one to get opinions on what my options are based on the extent of this rust.
1. Weld some sheet metal 2. Swap good parts onto a rust free-ish car 3. ? |
#2
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Some of it looks terrible - the stuff in the last picture is bad news - when you get piles of delaminated rust it usually means that there will be more trouble elsewhere.
If you are prepared to be left with just parts and no car I'd have a go at it with an angle grinder and wire brush attachment and do an "Opinions on these holes" thread. Your options then might become a bit clearer.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Some of those look to be in structural areas. I would proceed with extreme caution.
If I were convinced I wanted to keep the car, I would cut all that off... (assuming that's even feasible), weld new metal in, treat with Miracle Paint and/or POR 15, and go from there. However, just looking at the pictures, I'm thinking that you've got a parts car, I'm very sorry. Packer
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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige 189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too! |
#4
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If it has to do with the support it should be welded.
The Belly rust in the first pic could be covered with fiber Glass Cloth and Bondo or another Resin type stuff. But, if you are going to weld the other stuff you might as well weld that also. You have more rust but I think mine was worse. My Rear Cross Member actually cracked and was causing a groaning sound when I backed up. I bought a Harbor Freight Flux Core Welder ($99 when they have a good sale on it); it comes with one 2lb Spool of Welding Wire. I am no prize welder with the Material laying flat. For Me it was at least 5 times more difficult time under the Car on my Back. I delayed doing what I should have done in the first place and that was to get the Car as high as possible off of the Ground with the Equipment I had. The effect was that the last part of the job came out better than the first half because I had more room to work in. I welded over the Cracks and filled the Hole on the bottom in with weld and ground it down and welded the Plate on the Bottom. I also welded up 2 holes and a crack I had in one of my Rear Control Arms.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#5
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the subframe connectors are ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL, and I see no repair method I'd trust.
the other rusting areas could be cleaned out, and patched to look better, but they'd never be as good as new. I'm amazed the jack points are as good as they are, with that much rust in the car. take all your new parts and put them back in boxes, and get a nice car with zero rust, or less rust in the critical areas... I'm sorry.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#6
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Quote:
You MUST remove all structurally-unsound rust, and then encapsulate the rust with something like POR15 or Miracle Paint (Kent Bergsma) with several coats. THEN you can place fiberglass with Miracle Paint acting as the resin. Bottom line is, on all non-structural areas, you can patch with fiberglass, but the rust must be hermetically-sealed against air and water intrusion, or you are just hiding the problem and making it worse! Sincerely, Packer
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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige 189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too! |
#7
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I've got an 82 300D that is rust free and runs good that I'll sell for a price that is probably lower than it will take to fix all that.
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Jim |
#8
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You have significant structural rust here, The question is, what are you worth? Are you worth the difference btw staying alive or getting injured or worse in an accident that depends on the integrity of your car? I know my answer on that.
Scrap it.
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Chief 1991 350SD |
#9
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All the chemo and radiation in the world isn't saving that patient. Stop putting anymore new parts on it.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#10
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Indy-Benz, I hate to say this, but I think that car is done in. I have been reading your other posts, would love to see you succeed, but short of rebuilding that car from the ground up, (See some of Army's Post's) I would say stop what you are doing, the new parts that you have purchased can be returned, (if not you can always sell them on the forum). You are looking for transportation, and that is not the way to go. Write it off to experience, tow it if you can too "Pic a Part" and you can get about $600.00 for it. Get yourself some basic transportation for now and when a rust free car comes available, (you won't find it in Indy or Chicago) snap it up. But anything you look at in this area and north is very suspect and I would not buy it. You have to go south, Atlanta, Florida, and Texas. I junked out my 85 300D three years ago and it looked like a cream puff compared to what I see of yours and I didn't see mine as being repairable.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#11
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rust free
Rust free cars can be found in the Memphis area. I wouldn't attempt to fix the rust unless the car held a high degree of sentimental value to me.....like my Dad bought it brand new. Rust is a big killer of these old MBs.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#12
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My '82 was way worse, I'd drive it into the ground and not bother with throwing money at it.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#13
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Quote:
Sincerely, Packer
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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige 189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too! |
#14
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Quote:
You need to get rid of the Rust before you do either.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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Quote:
There used to be stuff you could use with a Sprayer with a Nozzle you could position (was sold by JC Whtney&Co) to spray in antirust chemicals inside of areas. But, I doubt if it would seal everthing inside.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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