Was that the rust blast stuff?

Rust Remover - RustBlast - Metal Prep Primer - Metal Etch

They do have this one for high temperature situations which looks encouraging

XTC Silicone Zinc Primer - High Temperature Zinc Primer - Header Paint Primer

Though I'm not sure how a silicone base paint will work out...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Hi Stretch, I used the 'rust blast' after my wire brushing. It is a water based (some type of acid) that dissolves the rust and leaves a zinc phosphate coating that you clean with water. After it dried I put the rust seal (RustSeal Galvanized Steel by KBS Coatings - Stop Rust - Rust Paint) on it then did the composite and finish work.

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85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

Yes, you are right...it is a waste of money. next repair ..we will use this por-15 stuff. I have been hearing alot of good about it.

I did the same as you....just a patch job on areas that looked bad. I hate looking at rust too. I really just wanted to stop the rust from progressing any further. I could'nt care less what color it is. I just want to protect the metal from deteriorating further until I can afford to get set up for painting the whole car some day. I did match the color very nicely with some shade of Chrysler gold from Canadian tire and since I had to buy a can of color anyways thought I would get as close as possible. I got lucky.

Good threads

Dupont and PPG both make excellent self-etching primer. It's acid based and digs right into the metal for a great first coat. I have to agree that NO primer will do a long-term job over rust. Something I have done if the rust has not penetrated is to clean the snot out of it (that's a technical term), prime it with self-etching primer, then SINK the area with a pick hammer and fill over it with body filler.

I once did a spot on a sail panel that was about 6" across using the above technique. The owner was a coworker so I saw the car everyday. No recurrence after several years and that was in MI salt. This way I didn't have to pull the headliner and weld in a big spot.

Pick hammer technique if you're not good at staying within the lines: Put the pick where you want the impact and strike the flat face of the pick hammer with a flat hammer (like the flat end of a ball pein). Works great and gets the dimple exactly where you want it. And no, I've never had a chunk of hammer fly off when doing this.

Dan

Dan,
Goes to show that experience is sometimes the best teacher. I don't know how well my repairs will hold up over the long term. Sometimes the cancer just spreads. I think I will pick the material with a punch next time. My VW is hopefully going to get new paint this year.

Mac, I used to use spray cans until about 10 years ago. I picked up a spray gun then and have never looked back. Now a have a hvlp gun. It wasn't expensive but really leaves a nice smooth finish. I also have tried an air brush which covers small areas great and is easy to blend with. My HPLV gun is almost too big for something the size of a motorcycle tank.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

It sounds like you are a body man or something. I don't understand the term Sink. Thanks for the info.

Do you have any experience with BASF glasurit. I had my Mustang done in that stuff in 97 Lexus Deep emerald green. Looked like a metallic british racing green with some pearl in it. It looked black at night. It had a very nice finish, that seemed to stand up to rust well. I have one spot on the roof but I think that is prep related to before it was painted cause there is no rust anywhere else. It seems to me there is lifetime warranty on this BASF glasurit paint?
(Is a sail panel the roof of the car?)
I wonder what the O.P is going to use? What color?

I often wondered what those hvlp spray guns where all about. They go on sale often at our equivalent of your harbour freight for cheap. They have air brushes for very cheap as well. I have only a small air compressor. So then to use one of those types you would need to get paint at a body shop?

I am another fan of POR-15. If you are using it under paint that will be seen, it is important to get some primer over the POR 15 before it set too hard. If you prime it too early it doesn't work. If you wait too long, the POR 15 is already too hard. That stuff is like glass--you can scuff i9t up to improve adhesion, but getting primer on it at just the right time works best for me.
Oh, and their motto is true--They REALLY do know what permanent means--and you will too if you don't wear gloves and some gets on your skin.

The water-based products are usually phosphoric acid which reacts with the iron oxide to form iron phosphate--I think I got the chemistry correct. They are not a bad product, but, IMO, the POR 15 is superior. There are similar products on the market, I think Eastwood sells one.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

Hi Mac
Try painting something less critical with one of those cheap guns, (That is where I got my HPLV gun. It was 20 bux or so.) you will find your work improve 2-3x. I got the paint from that link (automotive touch up) I posted earlier on this page.
Fowler: KBS must use belt and suspenders. They recommend using the rust blast then using their sealer over it. Good point about not waiting too long after you coat with the sealer. Getting some chemical bond has to be better than a secondary layup with the flox.

__________________
85 Merc 300D - Unwinding 31 years of wear
86 VW TD
Mahindra Diesel
Iseki Diesel

In 2007 I didn't own a diesel.

Ok, got the cracked, crazed clear coat off from the trunk and sanded to 120 grit. Also, from all of the above posters, thanks about the rust prevention product. I'll research these. As far as the body work creating a dimple where the rust spot is and then sealing it, I like that idea. I'll have to try it. Now, once this car gets painted, I'm having a new windshield installed. Also the back window is getting a new gasket, which leaks water into the trunk, badly at the moment.
Some one asked what color I was going to paint the car. Since I'm trying to be authentic, it will be red. Since this is the first car I'm painting, the processes is not dissimilar to that of a boat. The substrate is metal rather than fiberglass, there are more angles rather than flat surfaces to sand and you finish the surface to 320 rather than 220 grit.

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Ok, had some more time today so I got the other side of the car done. Stretch, you said something which got me thinking, so I rolled the bigger compressor out of the garage. Worked great! Believe it or not I've burned and locked up a two stage air compressor before from Sears. Guess I'm hard on things
Found a compressor which I don't believe I can kill. This did not come with the mobil base. I don't have to ever worry about the tires going flat for their made of solid rubber. The unit doesn't swivel or turn, just move forward and backwards.
Ok, car is sanded to 120 grit currently.

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Now that deserves a big picture insertion



What a beauty - petrol power supply too - no great long runs of 16mm^2 wiring!

In the words of Tim the Tool Man Taylor / Jeremy Clarkson / every other little boy who won't grow up => {more} Powerrrrrrrrrrrrr!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

One more thing to bear in mind is that the original substrata are probably better than anything you can replicate. They got the metal REALLY clean and bonded the primers etc well to it. Where you sand thru, you have no choice, but the more of the original primer you can leave in place, the better. IOW, there is no need, or benefit to take it all the way to bare metal--unless you are dealing with a rust pit or similar.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

Thanks MS Fowler and point taken. The paint remover was probably not the best idea, but you don't learn usless you try. The white spots you see on the door and others around the car is the original primer. Only sanded through a few spot to the base metal by accident.

Sorry for the jargon, Mac! The sail panel is the section from the top to the quarter panel. This was on a '78ish Olds Delta 88 (IIRC) and it was a HUGE expanse of metal. Excellent blind spot!

To "sink" a spot is to set it below the desired final finished surface. In this situation it allows an area for the filler to sit on top of the formerly rusty area without the substrate (original metal) showing thru. The whole idea is to encapsulate the cleaned but rusty spot so that it is isolated from any exposure to the air so that it can't further oxidize.

I've used Glasurit, DuPont, PPG, Sherwin-Williams, and a bunch of other paint brands and had good success with all of them provided I followed the manufacturer's directions. That last part is very important! And use the complete system - thinners, hardeners, etc.

I never worked as a professional body man but I had some training at Ferris State (as it was back then) in Big Rapids, MI and I've done body work for more than 50 years as a hobby and sometimes as a side job. If I needed cash I sometimes bought a repairable total (there's a whole thread in how to choose one of those!) and put them together. I've made good money doing that over the years.

Dan