My $50 paint job - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

littlehandegan · #16 03-24-2013, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silber Adler

No clear coat? Just asking. Why didn't you get a sprayer to paint it?

No clear coat= no clear coat failure down the road

Can sit for years and become dull, and a polish will bring it right back to life. Single stage paint

TheDon · #17 03-24-2013, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Stokes

I've been spray painting cars (not professionally) for 50 years or more. I don't understand why people seem to be afraid of the spray gun. The Tractor Supply paint is cheap enough and all of it can be sprayed much more quickly that it can be rolled/brushed and then blocked and buffed. Most rental stores will rent a compressor and gun for not a lot of money and gun techniques can be mastered with a little practice (get an old hood and make your mistakes there). No big deal, really.

All that said, you clearly put the effort into making this a nice job and you should be proud of your results - looks good! The errant dribbles should come right off with lacquer thinner.

Dan

To do it correct it scares people and is why it costs so much to have a nice spray job done.

But with the roller job it's all in the prep. Works great for solid colors.

Did you do the door jambs?

xaliscomex · #18 03-24-2013, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Squiggle Dog

That could pass as a factory job from the distance seen in the pictures. Congratulations! I've been contemplating doing the roll-on Rustoleum method as well (in two-tone). I figure that it can't look any worse than the paint currently on it. Unfortunately, I have lots of small dents.

Remove the dents first and then paint. Dents are more pronounced when getting a new paint job. Faded paint hides dings and dents like you can't imagine. I've seen brand new luxury cars with door dings and dents and it seriously takes the beauty out of the them. Don't paint until you get rid of those body imperfections no matter how cheap the paint job is

alabbasi · #19 03-24-2013, 11:28 AM

Door dings will show a lot more on new paint as there will be more material around the ding.If it look bad now, it will stick out like a sore thumb once the new paint is on.

Phillytwotank · #20 03-24-2013, 12:07 PM

WoW! Wheels looks good too. How did you prep them?

compu_85 · #21 03-24-2013, 12:48 PM

The thing about this method that appeals to me is that it all goes so slowly... with a spray gun it doesn't take long to screw up the job. Here you're working much more slowly and I'd think an error part way would be easier to fix. Of course this assumes you have tons of free time as well

-J

eatont9999 · #22 03-24-2013, 12:49 PM

Looks nice! Good work!

I am waiting for my tax return so I can pay someone to paint my car. It has been sun-baked and the paint has oxidized. From what I have read, prep work is 80% of the effort and spraying is about 20%. I can pull the trim and moldings but other than that, I am out of my element.

My uncle and I re-painted the hood of my Geo Prizm many years ago and that was a day's project. I can only imagine doing a whole car!

97 SL320 · #23 03-24-2013, 12:59 PM

I've rebuilt a few tow behind compressors ( the runs a jack hammer type ) and have found semigloss / matt works much better on dented equipment that super gloss. I use regular automotive paint, add flatening agent then spray.

In the early 90's , the lower 1/4 of the SL was semigloss, Late model Audis supposedly have matt finishes all over. A car that is too shiny overpowers the color and lines of the car.

Roll on automotive primer at the professional level does exist.

barry12345 · #24 03-24-2013, 03:21 PM

Time available is the issue with the roll on method. Replaces money as you do not even need a compressor. Sometimes a better choice from the perspective of your wallet.

I do not know if paint products like rust paint have improved. Some paints fade out fast under UV. At least one should try to find an automotive rated paint. Helps the labour intensive job lasting longer and perhaps better. There are still deals out there on automotive acrylic enamels. Plus you can match your color easier.

TheDon · #25 03-24-2013, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabbasi

Door dings will show a lot more on new paint as there will be more material around the ding.If it look bad now, it will stick out like a sore thumb once the new paint is on.

a little bondo work can take care of those dings.

colincoon · #26 03-24-2013, 04:30 PM

What color did you go with for the wheels? They look nice.

TheDon · #27 03-24-2013, 05:06 PM

I have a spare W124 fender I might experiment with if I can find the free time.

Colin,

I know dupli-color has a silver that is pretty much spot on for Astral Silver.

Dan Stokes · #28 03-24-2013, 05:24 PM

[QUOTE=TheDon;3119292]

But with the roller job it's all in the prep. Works great for solid colors.
QUOTE]

The key to ANY paint job is the prep. You can train a monkey to shoot paint. The way MAACO makes a living is that they cut corners on prep (tape emblems, etc). If you take them a decently prepared car they can shoot paint with the best of 'em - they do more of it than anyone. Prep is where the time goes so shops charge accordingly.

Dan

TheDon · #29 03-24-2013, 07:14 PM

I'm 100% on the fence on doing a gloss black roller job or just doing as much body work and prep myself (I have some accident damage and a spot of rust) and sending it off to get painted one day.

Mölyapina · #30 03-24-2013, 10:48 PM

Looks awesome! How did you brush-roll the fender skirts and the other areas that are not nice, large, and flat?