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  #1  
Old 06-12-2013, 02:18 PM
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Question Surface Rust

I just picked up a 1955 180 that has extensive surface rust. See pic.

How do I address/repair the surface rust?

Thanks,
Mike
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Surface Rust-55-180.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2013, 03:31 PM
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I had an old Packard about 20 years ago which had the same rust. Your options back then are about the same today:

1. Reddy Strip or similar company
2. Blasting of some form, now you got wet blasting which is all the rage
3. Elbow grease, but good luck on that since that pitting is about impossible

Then, primer out of the can with a brush for the first coat since that will really fill in the pits. No thinnning and use something thick. If the pits are deep, then I suggest trying to find new panels, e.g., hood, et cet., before spending any money. A lot cheaper and quicker in the long run. OR, buy a gallon of plastic and start sanding like crazy. Even sealing with POR-15 has its issues, to include the finished product.

No easy solutions ...
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2013, 04:18 PM
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Apparently it is all the rage to just clear coat the rust!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2013, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Apparently it is all the rage to just clear coat the rust!
personally, yuk ... but I have seen that a few times now.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2013, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
personally, yuk ... but I have seen that a few times now.
I've only seen it on Fast 'n' Loud - Aaron is just a little miniature automotive bearded god...

...oh yes he is.

Indeed...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2013, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
I had an old Packard about 20 years ago which had the same rust. Your options back then are about the same today:

1. Reddy Strip or similar company
2. Blasting of some form, now you got wet blasting which is all the rage
3. Elbow grease, but good luck on that since that pitting is about impossible

Then, primer out of the can with a brush for the first coat since that will really fill in the pits. No thinnning and use something thick. If the pits are deep, then I suggest trying to find new panels, e.g., hood, et cet., before spending any money. A lot cheaper and quicker in the long run. OR, buy a gallon of plastic and start sanding like crazy. Even sealing with POR-15 has its issues, to include the finished product.

No easy solutions ...
Thanks greazzer.

I've heard of issues with Reddy Strip type stripping (chemicals continuing to eat the metal). I do like the idea of dipping the entire body since there is also surface rust on the bottom of the car. Does Reddy Strip just strip the paint or does it also address the rust? I assume dipping the body requires a total dismantling of the car. Lots of work.

I've heard of issues with media blasting (eating wires and all kinds of electrical problems). I don't know anything about wet blasting, but water and bare metal don't seem to mix? Once the paint is gone the rust still is there?

Thanks again,
Mike
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  #7  
Old 06-13-2013, 12:48 PM
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Reddi Strip will make the part look like new, down to the shiny metal. There are a bunch of knock offs. I went to the Reddi Strip in Allentown, PA, but I am thinking they are gone. It is truly amazing. The solution will generally only leave behind a phosphate like coating. I had a fender and trunk lid in my basement for months and no flash. Wet blasting is the "new" rage. Check out wet abrasive blasting - YouTube.
Wet blasting is supposed to NOT warp a panel.

If you can source a rust free or virtually rust free panel, e.g., hood, trunk lid, doors, then that is the way to go. If you want to strip just the paint, then I use JASCO. It is sold at Lowes for about $25.00 a gallon. I did a MB hood down to the E-Coat with about 3/4 gallon and it took about an hour. So, I am pretty happy with that. So, you could do your hood for $25.00 but you still got the rust. There's no easy way to get that pitting. If you could figure out a way to "damm" up the sides, you could probably get away with a gallon of Evaporust and that stuff works miracles too. Damming the sides and pouring a gallong of Evaporust and letting it sit for 24-48 hours, and your rust should be gone too. And, you can reuse that stuff. OR, if you wanted pure speed and economy, you could rough up the area and paint over everything with POR 15, but I am thinking that will look like crap with a top coat.
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2013, 12:54 PM
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If money is not a major concern, the Dustless Blasting may be an option, about $1,000 for an entire car.

Dustless Blasting Strips a '63 Impala in Under 1 Hour! - YouTube
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2013, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangrum View Post
...

I don't know anything about wet blasting, but water and bare metal don't seem to mix? Once the paint is gone the rust still is there?

...
Water is used all over the place in both rust treatment products and paint itself these days. I think all European car manufacturers have to use water based paint...

I do, however, share your concerns about blasting spot welded structures with high pressure water. That's why I'd never pressure wash a car.

You guys in the states have way better paint stripping products than we do over here - probably because of the European regulations.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 06-14-2013, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
Reddi Strip will make the part look like new, down to the shiny metal. There are a bunch of knock offs. I went to the Reddi Strip in Allentown, PA, but I am thinking they are gone. It is truly amazing. The solution will generally only leave behind a phosphate like coating. I had a fender and trunk lid in my basement for months and no flash. Wet blasting is the "new" rage. Check out wet abrasive blasting - YouTube.
Wet blasting is supposed to NOT warp a panel.

If you can source a rust free or virtually rust free panel, e.g., hood, trunk lid, doors, then that is the way to go. If you want to strip just the paint, then I use JASCO. It is sold at Lowes for about $25.00 a gallon. I did a MB hood down to the E-Coat with about 3/4 gallon and it took about an hour. So, I am pretty happy with that. So, you could do your hood for $25.00 but you still got the rust. There's no easy way to get that pitting. If you could figure out a way to "damm" up the sides, you could probably get away with a gallon of Evaporust and that stuff works miracles too. Damming the sides and pouring a gallong of Evaporust and letting it sit for 24-48 hours, and your rust should be gone too. And, you can reuse that stuff. OR, if you wanted pure speed and economy, you could rough up the area and paint over everything with POR 15, but I am thinking that will look like crap with a top coat.
POR 15 is expensive.

Sourcing certain rust free or virtually rust free panels may be difficult. The rear doors and trunk can come from later models. This car is an early model, however, and much rarer than later (> '56) cars. The hood and front doors are different (narrow grill and no vent windows on front doors). Tail lights are smaller so rear quarters are harder to find. Not sure about the front quarters. The roof probably has the worst surface rust and sourcing that is not practical. See attached.
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Surface Rust-55-180-roof.jpg  
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  #11  
Old 06-14-2013, 04:18 PM
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Dustless Blasting Strips a '63 Impala in Under 1 Hour! - YouTube
AND, a lot of bondo ...
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2013, 12:37 PM
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in Europe is good stuff too.
Korrosionsschutz-Depot: Fachhandel fr Rostschutz und Fahrzeugrestaurierung

would be happy if =I could get some of the stuff in the US :-(

Oskar
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  #13  
Old 07-03-2013, 03:40 PM
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A da sander knocks that stuff down in no time, the roof is bit a little harder, a 8" harbour freight grinder/polisher and some 120 grit.
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