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  #1  
Old 07-16-2013, 09:35 PM
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Location: Durham, NC
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Trim removal for repainting

I have a 1987 300e that REALLY needs to be repainted. How do I remove the black trim pieces along the sides, etc., so that they can be re-attached securely and without further damage? Is it possible to obtain new ones and install them in place of the old ones after the paint job is done?

Also, how do I remove the 300E chrome trim from the trunk lid? I can see how to remove the Mercedes emblem but not this one...
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2013, 12:34 AM
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For plastic trim it is usually a case of very careful prying. You can replace the bayonet fittings that are under the trim pieces if necessary (once the paint job has been done). I don't know about the 300E chrome trim as both of my cars are de-badged...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2013, 12:23 PM
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I am also in the process of removing the trim on my 85 300d, I know how to remove the belt line trim. I sort of know how to remove the gutter trim (is there a thread with pictures?). I do not not know how to remove the trim strip on the lower window sill. Does anyone have a write up on that?

Also - is there a write up on the removal and replacement of the front and rear windows?

And, (another and) is there a write up on rust repair on the rear window (its in the corner)

thanks
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2013, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranmkp View Post
I am also in the process of removing the trim on my 85 300d, I know how to remove the belt line trim. I sort of know how to remove the gutter trim (is there a thread with pictures?). I do not not know how to remove the trim strip on the lower window sill. Does anyone have a write up on that?

Also - is there a write up on the removal and replacement of the front and rear windows?

And, (another and) is there a write up on rust repair on the rear window (its in the corner)

thanks
Here's one

PeachPartsWiki: Rear Window Seal Replacement

W123 exterior trim removal

I haven't written up the refurbishment of my doors yet but the bits you want are in the FSM in chapter 72 (chapter 67 for the front and rear windscreens too)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 07-25-2013, 11:52 AM
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repaint

So, I have been planning this for a long time - just got back a quote from at top tier painter - I am removing all the trim and glass. Whole job with minor rust repair (lower window and lower quarter panel) 4700.00

Ok, I have the money for but, my 84 has 205k on it - it is perfect, all rubber has been replaced, all ac hose have been replaced, motor mounts. Ac is fine, trans has been resealed. Interior leather is fine, seat springs are fine, window motors and regulators are fine. SO....

If I decide to sell after I paint - can I sell it at 8k? Coupes and wagons get those prices or higher.

Advice?
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  #6  
Old 07-25-2013, 08:24 PM
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84 or 85?

I was going to do alittle research for you on past 300d sales, but it looks like you made a typo on your second post. I assume you meant 85 not 84?
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  #7  
Old 07-26-2013, 12:08 AM
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yes, 84. I sold a low milage 85 (60k) for 8k a few years ago. Should of kept it...
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  #8  
Old 07-26-2013, 10:58 PM
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See the MB Cars For Sale section

Did you scroll down to the MB Cars For Sale section and do a search for previous 300d sales? There's quite a number listed, too many for me to replay. Not sure your paint job will provide a 100% return on your investment and enable you to get 8 grand out of your car. Sounds like you're doing a lot of work for the body shop on your own. I can't remember if you said you got more than one estimate or not. If you didn't, might be worth getting a second or third.
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  #9  
Old 07-30-2013, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PARSHOOT1 View Post
Did you scroll down to the MB Cars For Sale section and do a search for previous 300d sales? There's quite a number listed, too many for me to replay. Not sure your paint job will provide a 100% return on your investment and enable you to get 8 grand out of your car. Sounds like you're doing a lot of work for the body shop on your own. I can't remember if you said you got more than one estimate or not. If you didn't, might be worth getting a second or third.
Have got several quotes and they are all running about the same- I de-trim the car. They sand down to good primer, fix rust, epoxy prime, long board sand, shoot two base color and three clear, color sand and polish. Using PPG, Glasurit shops were a little higher.
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  #10  
Old 08-23-2013, 04:48 PM
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How difficult with the door trim be to remove???

http://www.artshot.net/window_trim.JPG
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  #11  
Old 08-23-2013, 05:58 PM
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Look in the Tech Forum.....

Stretch has just the pictures you need in a thread titled "Removing 123 Trim" and it's under the Tech Forum today, 8/23.
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  #12  
Old 08-29-2013, 03:16 PM
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Mitered trim on door

Stretch's write up does not mention the mitered window trim...
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2013, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranmkp View Post
Stretch's write up does not mention the mitered window trim...
No indeed - so if you have a look in chapter 72 in the FSM
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #14  
Old 08-30-2013, 01:56 PM
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I figured out an easy way for removing the window gutter trim.

a-pillar to top of c-pillar: clip remover/trim separator, wrapped with a bit of tape to prevent unwanted marring, very slowly, lift a little bit at a time.

and the hard part that took me a while to figure out - Top to bottom of c-pillar: I used a foot long piece of 2x2 and a mallet. Place end of 2x2 at the bottom of the trim and tap out the bottom corner so that it lifts out of the channel enough for you to finish the job with the trim separator.
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