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  #1  
Old 07-21-2013, 12:47 AM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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Color-sanding/buffing by hand?

I have been trying to paint one of my 300D's fenders and both fascia strips under the headlights, and since I seem to be pretty dreadful at painting, I was hoping I could color sand and buff out some of the defects. I don't have a rotary tool or DA buffer, and am trying to do it by hand ... I've got a pretty nice smooth finish on the fascia bits using 1500 then 2000 grit sandpaper, but I'm not having any luck getting the shine back. I've got a sort of dull shine, but you can see the very fine scratches still there. Is it possible to get it to really shine again by hand? What are the best products to use? I was using a 3M rubbing compound and Meguiars 3-step polish, but I don't think either is made for what I'm doing. I was thinking a cutting compound and then finishing compound, but there seem to be endless products (most of which are made for rotary buffers) and I don't want to spend money on any more that don't work.
Note: the paint is single-stage Nason/DuPont with reducer and catalyst according to recommendation on the can.

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Old 09-10-2013, 12:45 AM
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I suggest to go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap buffer and wool pad you can usually get one for under $65. that is the only way I know how to get the shine you are looking for.
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:22 AM
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If you post up some clear pictures I'm sure many here can help.

A buffing machine will help but it isn't in my opinion absolutely necessary. Doing it by hand will take a lot longer but you should have better control over the rate of material removal.

If you can see scratches then you probably need to sand it smooth with water and paper. If that removes too much paint then you need to spray on some new.

Make sure that you leave enough time for the paint to harden before you polish it.

It might not be apparent to you so I'll say it just in case - polishing is all about removal of a surface by making it smoother and smoother. It is meant to be a process of careful erosion rather than stripping though!

{So again if you can see scratches it is probably unlikely you'll get it to shine - cut it back first}
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  #4  
Old 10-15-2013, 02:10 AM
Matt
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Essex, united kingdom
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color-sanding by hand

if you can get "farecla" G3 compound this is the absolute best stuff I have found for bringing the shine back, it is a very fine compound that will remove light scratches and dullness in the paint, polishes like meguiars and auto glym are waxes and do not have any cutting capabilities, you have done exactly the right thing with the 2000 grit paper, and you are literally 2 stages away from a really good finish, The rubbing compound is a much harsher form of the polishing compound. if you can find a local car paint supplier ask them if they supply it this will bring the shine back, you apply it on a damp cloth and apply in straight lines across the panel unlike wax which is done is circles and as it cuts back the paint it brings the shine back, after that use any wax polish you have and you will have a lovely finish, I have never machine polished a car and have always done it by hand and I swear by Farecla G3 and auto glym.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:55 PM
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You WILL NOT get a reflective, shiny finish by hand unless you are Popeye and have all the time in the world on your hands. I do this for a living and can promise you, wet sand by hand out to 1500 or 2000 then switch to a buffer with a wool pad ( unless the paint is less than a day old, then use a foam pad only ) depending on the finish you seek you may want to do the wool pad with a buffing compound then go to a soft foam pad with a swirl mark removing compound. This will give you the best finish next to some serious work. The green 356 was done out to swirl mark level, the black was done 2 steps further, and IMHO only black needs to be taken that far.
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