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#1
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Sanding old Clear coat--and it stinks!
Really. The failed CC is 5 years old, and when I sand it, I smell paint odor.
Is that normal? I and guessing that the failure has something to do with trapped vapors. Anyone know for sure? Will a sealer give extra protection against future failure?
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
#2
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Define "failed clear coat"
What brand and exact type of paint have you been using? ( everything from bare metal up ) I consider paint smell when sanding normal. |
#3
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Quote:
About 5 years ago I removed the factory CC, and applied Kirker "converted BB, and their CC/ It looked great for a year or two, then began to form bubbles which broke and the edges began to peel. I sanded the spots, and recoated using the same products. Again, looked great for a while, then began to fail as before. Now I am sanding off ALL the old finishes to the original base, or primer. Occasionally I break through to bare metal. I plan to shoot a sealer and then use a SS urethane, solid dark blue, no metallic so i can color sand and buff as required. If smelling the old paint is normal, then I am OK. I was just wondering if the old smell was an indication that some of the first BC I applied had not sufficiently flashed and some vapors were still making their way to the surface and lifting the top coats in the process.
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
#4
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Given you painted the entire car, I doubt that there wasn't enough flash time. ( running around the entire car, cleaning gun, mixing clear )
Are you using all of the Kirker products for the job? Using a different brands thinner / hardener / or other coats can cause unforeseen problems. Past that look around for someone that has used your specific products / procedures and run it past them. ( Or even the Kirker supplier / web site ) Have a look as some street rod sites like " HAMB " at The H.A.M.B. |
#5
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Ok , thanks
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
#6
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Kirker is a very low end product and not that cheap either. I'd use a better quality paint.
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With best regards Al |
#7
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to be completely blunt you get what you pay for in this industry and Kirker is crap.
I'll second that with I know that the new guy is always looked upon with skepticism but if you're in the Porsche world as well, there is a good chance you know my work and have seen my posts on 914 world 356 Reg, or early S reg. Sand the Kirker off and put something decent on the car. PPG and Glasurit will give you the best quality as well as the best color match. If you want to cut costs down ( about in half ) go with PPG's SHOPLINE brand, but don't expect the color match to be 100%. More like 85% unless it's a metallic, then all bets are off I'm more than willing to help out, but I don't come on here often, so feel free to post questions or send PM's if you need help. That way I get E-mail notifications Auto Projects |
#8
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From the odor, something did not cure correctly. It sounds like self condensation of the isocyanate, perhaps some water contamination.
Do you have pictures of the problem?
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___________________________________________ 2010 Toyota matrix '93 500 SEL A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash. '12 Volvo S80 T6 Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction '18 Mazda Miata No more boring cars for everyday transport! |
#9
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No pics--all sanded away.
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
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