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Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > Bodywork - Repair, Paint, Tools, Tips & Tricks

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  #1  
Old 07-09-2015, 08:44 AM
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underbody rust

found some underbody rust around my subframe support bracket on my w115. what else do these bolts go through besides floor pans? underbody rust-fucked.jpg
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:07 AM
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The title of your JPG says it all.

The bolts don't go through anything else. They rely on the integrity of the floor pan to maintain proper suspension alignment.

Time for new floor pans at a minimum.
Check around for other key rusted areas (jack points, trunk deck, front frame rails, inner fender wells, etc.). You might be frightened at what you find. Remember, these are "Uni-body" construction vehicles and rely on chassis components to provide strength.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair/339888-w114-rocker-panel-repair.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair/232688-rear-fenderwell-rust.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/229683-leg-bones-connected-knee-bone.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/205060-kiss-death-all-old-mercedes.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/183947-rust-never-sleeps.html
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:08 AM
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Just goes into the floor pan - but the whole pan needs to be stiff and rust free which is often a bit difficult for an old Mercedes!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:08 AM
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Hah! Well done Mike - super fast posting!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:27 AM
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Yeah, I'm bored and have nothing better to do today than surf the 'net.

Drew up a crank trigger wheel for the M115 TBI conversion and am sending the drawing off to have a custom one made. Gonna be a couple of days before it's done so, for the moment, the wife's Benz is sitting in my work area blocking any projects I had planned.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:23 PM
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Okay cool i was planning on replacing soon going to tack in new ones and just cut out and most likely fiber glass the rust on the underbody
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:28 PM
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Bear in mind the stiffeners were put there for a reason when you're smearing fibre glass where once there was metal. If the floor pan is not stiff enough the subframe mounts at the front will probably end up bending at the higher part in the chassis that is in a closed box section which makes it very awkward to repair...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:56 PM
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I meant putting fibre glass on the non structural part of the car like the very bottom of the car under floorpans
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:29 PM
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The entire floor pan is structural. Using fiberglass to repair pin holes is fine. You should not replace an entire section with fiberglass mesh.
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Old 07-09-2015, 06:57 PM
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If you are unable to get metal clean enough to weld but the metal is otherwise strong. On various cars I've used 1/4" bolts to distribute loads and welded where I could.

An example would be a domestic ( USA ) car with a pinch welded lower rocker panel. Weld the top, bolt through the pinch weld.
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