Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > Bodywork - Repair, Paint, Tools, Tips & Tricks

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-12-2016, 08:38 AM
888 888 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 85
Question on 82 300D body shell repair

I have the chance to resurrect a rust free California 82 300D with 200k miles but I need some advice on what I'm getting into. My son and I are looking for a MB diesel project and here in Ohio, everything is rusted in places hard to see and expensive to fix. I've learned over the years to just spend more to bring in southern or western cars. I've owned and worked on a lot of diesels over the years, mostly VW's and Cummins 12v Dodge trucks, still have (2) of the Cummins trucks so I'm familiar with diesels.

The last Benz I worked on was 30 years ago, a stacked headlight car (late 60's model?) my dad picked up that had twin Zenith carbs on an inline 6 gas engine. Ended up having a blown head gasket and a warped head so it went away. I have been checking around on the web and networking with anyone I can think of who knows MB's, one is a member on here (Angel) and he suggested I post up.

Here is what I am working with:



This hit moved the metal cowl structure over just enough towards the dash to cause the hood latch to have difficulty working. Obviously, the door is jacked and will not open. The wheels are turned so what you see in the photo is not with the wheel straight ahead on the other side, this side is different, but not a lot.

I first thought that the rear mount for what I believe is called the front suspension guide rod may have been damaged to pull the wheel where it is. The bolts that attached the rod mount are inaccessible from the front on the top on the drivers side and they are easily accessible on the passenger side from the front.

I can't tell for sure that this is a problem because that side looks different than the passenger side by design, I found a nice front end rebuild procedure on here that shows me what it should look like and it appears those bolts are covered on the drivers side from the factory. So I can't tell how much what I see is damage and how much is design. That mount appears to be sort of suspended from the body shell and could probably be easily bent.

I can't find anything that looks wrong with the control arms or anything else on that side of the front suspension. I assume I would need to fix the body shell dimensions and fix the cowl hydraulically and then address any bending on the guide rod mount.

I did find something in the suspension/steering on the passenger side that was out of place. I found diagrams on Ecklermbzparts web site for everything but this part of the suspension so i can't tell you what it is. It's a nearly vertical "pin" assembly maybe 1.5" in diameter by 8" long/tall that fits at the top end into a bore above in a bracket on the frame rail. The pin is down and out of the bore and the top end is in a bind on the bracket. The bracket appears to come loose with bolts so I should be able to float the pin back in but it's clear something in the suspension moved a bit laterally when the car was hit.

I have access to quite a few Enerpac cylinders and small hydraulic jacks from the shop but i have no idea whether there is room to use them and press that cowl back out. I don't know if there is a spot to strap it to a tree on that side and to trees on the opposing side to pull it that way? if I have to put it on a frame rack, that will get expensive in a hurry. I see it's a unibody.

No one else has looked at the car and he really wants someone to try to bring it back to life. They offered him $76 at the junkyard for it and he doesn't want to do that. I think it's way too clean otherwise to see it scrapped but I have no idea what I'm getting into. He wants $700 but will probably accept much less if I promise to try to resurrect it.

Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions? I'm inclined to try to save it but I'm a bit of an idiot when I see good sheet Cali sheet metal in my own backyard.

I just replaced most of the front end on a Cummins truck due to collision damage and I've done TDI timing belts so I'm pretty good with most repairs, this cowl work is something I don't know to tackle. I have the hydraulic equipment, I just don't know if there is room to use it.

I hope this makes sense, it was dark by the time I got to the point of crawling around to take photos so I can't post anything more at the moment.

The car is otherwise very nice, an older woman's car prior to these folks purchasing it and was driven all over the west coast and from Cali to Ohio recently so mechanically it should be okay if I can get beyond this bodywork.

Thanks for any input.

Joe
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-16-2016, 03:58 PM
jmk jmk is offline
Former Paint Maker
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 346
I am definitely not the frame guy here. Hopefully someone will speak up.

As you can see, the car is fabulously well made. '80's Mercedes were great. I had the gas version of this car for years.

Before you get into the job, you'll need to understand that you'll need to keep it out of the salt if you want to keep it for a long time. The car is electrocoated but not galvanized, so it won't hold up to road salt. The car is pushing 35 years old. It would be a shame to fix it, then watch it rust away.
__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
My '01 Prism is getting very, very old for an everyday car. No more boring cars for everyday transport!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-17-2016, 08:18 AM
888 888 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk View Post
I am definitely not the frame guy here. Hopefully someone will speak up.

As you can see, the car is fabulously well made. '80's Mercedes were great. I had the gas version of this car for years.

Before you get into the job, you'll need to understand that you'll need to keep it out of the salt if you want to keep it for a long time. The car is electrocoated but not galvanized, so it won't hold up to road salt. The car is pushing 35 years old. It would be a shame to fix it, then watch it rust away.
Thanks for the reply. I've learned over time that any older vehicle I get has to come from out of the salt belt and it stays in the barn while salt is on the road.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page