Looking for a parts diagram for the W126 (1st gen but I don't think there is a difference) window regulator mounting brackets. NOT the sliding jaws, these are the plastic mountings which hold the regulator through the door sheet metal.

They appear to be a formed plastic bushing with a bolt which fits inside the regulator mounting frame, a formed, fitted "receiver" bushing which fits outside the bracket (between the mount and the door sheet metal) and a metal, threaded retainer which holds the plastic part of the bushing together. The "bolt" extends through the sheet metal of the door and accepts the nut which holds the track to the sheet metal.

Why, you ask? Because while in the process of replacing door panels I found out someone had previously replaced the sliding jaws and in the process managed to jury rig the mounting brackets allowing the window bracket to slip and slide enlarging the mounting holes. Of course I found this AFTER I had replaced the other three panels. Trying to avoid removing the installed panels (yeah, yeah, I'm lazy and not too proud to admit it) just to compare.

They appear to be similar to the ones for the W114 and W123 models. I've got parts from W114/W123's which I can probably adapt but it would be nice to have an idea of the original bits.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

How about some pics. I do not recognize what you are talking about in my 81 300SD. The sliding jaw fits inside a metal rail and forms a pivot for the regulator arm. As the arm moves the sliding jaw slides in the metal rail and raises the window.

As far as I remember you just remove about four or five bolts (or are they nuts?) from the regulator and motor and they both come out together. Seems like the metal rail stays attached to the bottom of the window and after replacing you slide the new sliding jaw into the end of the window bottom rail (has been a long time since I have done the job). Do not remember what those bolts/nuts screw into but believe they are a part of the door or door frame. Do not remember plastic bushings.

So need some pics.

I have all 4 OE window regulators in my SDL and not one of them had the plastic bushings you mention. They were all just a bolt clamping the regulator to the sheet metal. Some of the holes are oblong to allow adjustment of the tracks so the window goes up straight. As mentioned above, a picture is worth 1000 words.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Well, the idea of using W114 parts is out.

W114 bolt, spacer and lock assembly.


W126 mounting bushing, dis-assembled.


W126 sort of assembled.


Where the mount fits.


Wear from the loose mount.


I suppose this is probably listed as a "non serviceable" part but I can't see spending $80-100 to replace the entire regulator for $0.10 worth of plastic. The window operates with no glitches with the exception of the movement caused by the elongated mount hole, the teeth are good and the slide has been recently replaced.

I guess I'll rebuild the inner bushing, epoxy the plastic halves together and re-assemble the mount.

You gents might want to rethink your claims regarding "metal to metal" contact on your mounts. I have never seen an electric door window which doesn't have a shock absorbing material in its system.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

If you zoom in on the picture you can see the bushings.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Passengers-Regulator-Replacement-Mercedes-Benz-1267201446/dp/B007TYQF0Y

Most likely considered a part of the original assembly whereas they were replaceable in the prior models.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

There are no bushings that go through the sheet metal on that regulator. The bolt simply passes through the hole and the nut tightens against it. There is a rubber isolation mount that the bolt is pressed into, but it does not pass through the sheet metal. The nut is simply torqued down and holds the whole thing in place. Someone just didn't tighten that nut.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Not worth arguing about. I have the physical evidence sitting on my desk. Believe what you want.

Any idea where the large plastic ring in picture #3 goes? It was lying loose in the bottom of the door. It's the same black ABS as the bushing parts but danged if I can figure out where it fits.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

The only plastic bushing on the window regulator is the one that the bolt is held in on the regulator side. It has nothing to do with passing through the sheet metal. The bolt passes through the sheet metal and is acted on by the nut. There is no other bushing involved. The linked regulator you show is the same way. Either you're not clearly conveying what it is you're asking about, or your car has something that the rest of ours (nor the regulator in the link) have either.

If you're asking about the plastic grommets that the bolts are sitting in (making an assumption here), they are part of the regulator assembly, not a service part. I'd expect anything you could make fit would work, there's not a huge amount of stress on the front window regulator. If you want it OE, you'd have to find a used regulator to steal one from.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Actually I was wrong; I was describing the back regulator because that is what I have replaced several times. Forgot that the front regulator is a bit different.

And I just did a front regulator about a month ago. Instead of the rectangular sliding jaw with which I was familiar in the rear, the front had a different set up and I just replaced a different shaped slider without having to do any drilling and replacing of rivets. I do not remember doing anything with rubber washers. Think the front regulator threaded bolts just fit back through the door frame and received nuts.

Think Diseasel is correct; someone just failed to tighten the nut and it wallowed out the original hole. My best guess.

Done.

Elongated hole in regulator bracket.


Fitted bushing/ insulator installed on the outboard side of the bracket.


Corresponding bushing/insulator and washer/spacer on the inboard side of the bracket.


Used a dab of epoxy to hold it into place since the original crimp was defective allowing the plastic insulator to move. Probably the cause of the original failure. The nut was temporarily installed until the epoxy set.


Voila`! Back in place, freshly lubed, ready for moisture barrier and door panel.


Cost? Some head scratching, 20 minutes of re-fitting the bushing, a hour's wait for the epoxy to set and maybe a nickel's worth of epoxy.

Sure beat the $80+ for a new regulator AND I didn't have to fuss about with swapping the motor, the slide jaws, front window guide and re-alignment.

__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.”
― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now

Very nice fix. Probably as strong if not stronger than the OE piece was.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Agree; good looking job. I need to do my back door regulator again and I will peruse the bolts this time.