Paint top half
 

85 300TDT - Anybody ever paint just top half of car? (From side moulding up) The moulding goes (almost completely) around car - it would "divide" nicely. The reason is the roof is the worst area, and there are a couple of areas at wheel wells, front valence that need rust repair - I'm considering doing the "easier" areas myself. (Bet you never heard that one before.) Thanks. The car is a light color - smoke silver - as I see it, the division would not "show up as much" as say a darker color. I've seen this color with touch ups and areas patched to match color - looked good to me.

Are you going to take it down to " bare metal " before you paint?
Or try to paint over the old paint ?

I think you need to assess the cost difference between a total and a 1/2 paint job.

I doubt it's much different. I did the whole drivers side from molding down after some door damage. It was an extra $75 over fixing the door.
Of course, I did more trim removal.

Michael

You may not get a lot of encouragement from the other members on DIY painting. I for one enjoy, body work and have done a fair amount with some success (and some failures). I believe you could match the color well enough using the body molding as a divider to do the top half only. I painted my drivers side door last winter, and the paint matched reasonably well with the rest of the car. It is difficult (but not impossible) to spot that it is repainted. I also fixed a couple of dings in the door with bondo and did not take it down to the the bare metal. I used dupont enamel with a catalytic hardner for the repaint, which is really quicky job in relation to the prep work. Cost for repairing my door was less than $60.

If you have a good compressor and paint gun and don't mind spending the time to sand and prepare the car carefully, you can get a good result. I would take all of the molding off the car, so that the interface goes under the molding and not up to it. Ideally, all other removable items like hood star, mirrors, cowl vents, etc. contribute to better results.

Good luck!

Have the entire car done professionally. It is so easy to mismatch light metallic paints. Even if you use the same brand of paint that the bodyshop will use, you may obtain paint made from a different batch that won't quite match.

If you are handy, you may save a few $$$ by removing the bumpers, taillights and unpainted trim prior to the trip to the bodyshop.

If you have any inclination in that direction... I am with Franklyspeaking on this.... the dividing line makes it much easier to do just the top... and your working position is standing up rather than bent over working below the belt line...
There have been some other threads about doing it yourself painting...

PaulC, I have never seen anybody quote less than $2000 for a full MB paint job.... and I know I can do the top myself ( with cans if necessary ) for $150...

Of course I dream of " Snowberry White" on my car... this is an early 1970's MG color which has a very very slight tint of green in it... you can not see it in a parking lot... but get the car near grass or trees and it picks it up.... really beautiful... I painted my VW this color about 20 years ago.... have been looking for an excuse to paint another of my cars this color....

The reason I asked about whether it was going to be taken down to bare metal is that if it is NOT then a sealer needs to be applied first... this is just a special paint which keeps a 'wrong' type top paint from reacting ( read crinkle,lift,etc ) with the underlying paint.

Be prepared, the labor to paint the top of a wagon will be expensive if you want it done right. You'll need to remove the racks on both sides and the rub strips, all of which are bolted underneath the headliner. I've never done it but I hear that R/R the wagon headliner is a bear.

I think I would just tape off the chrome on a wagon....

I would do the whole car. I have done bodywork before and it came out okay but a big job is better left to a professional. Prep is key. You can save a lot of money by removing all the trim, mouldings, etc. yourself. Most bodyshops like this as it saves them lots of time so they can concentrate on what they do best, dent repair and paint. RT

Thanks for the fast responses! As for the roof rack (chrome) - is it really bolted on - through roof? If it is - I really am not prepared to take it off. HELP! (Thanks again)

Someone needs to check out the chrome deal on top.. this would make a big difference in decision making on this project..
The usual way for chrome to be applied is to attach clips which allow the chrome to be pried off/ snapped back on.... but MB is funny about some things and may have just bolted them down...

OK,,, I am sure the RACK is bolted down... but aren't chrome strips on the actual roof .... if so they may just be clipped...

Those actual Racks can easily be taped and left on for a paint job..

I found a reference to removing the chrome rack on the CD (the Haynes manual has nothing on the subject) and it is indeed bolted down and requires partial removal of the headliner. There is nothing that I could find on the CD about removing the rub strips. It could be that they do pop off like the side protective strips but in checking mine they are pretty soild, leading me to guess that they might in fact be bolted. I'd love to know for future reference. Interestingly, every now and then I see a wagon without the rub strips, just the chrome rack. By the way, I agree with you Leathermang, I think the chrome rack can be easily masked and painted around. It's just the rub strips that are a potential problem. Anyone who knows for sure how those are attached please chime in.

FYI, the info on removing the rack is under section 77 Sliding Roof.
The actual pages are under section 77-500.

My "white" 240's been done this way...
 

New front fenders and a door repair panel required that the new paint be "blended" with the original. My paint and body guy was skilled enough to do it without the "tan lines" that often go with such spot jobs. This spring, will replace rear quarter panels and use same approach.

Have experience with "old" cars where blending spot painting was easier.

recently on ebay there was a beautiful wagon two tone-

top half was black and the lower half was silver. it was gorgeous. and the rub rail was the line between the two halves. why not just paint the section below the rubrail?

eric

painting car
 

The key to a good paint job is practice. I have a sedan you can practice on. Nice silver/gray imron job would be great. Live near Houston?