Rust proofing and undercoating
 

Hi all,

Quick question.

I am thinking about getting some cans of the rubberized undercoating and climbing under my car and spraying the frame, and other undercarige items to prohibit rot.

Any thoughts, pro's con's, things to avoid?

Thanks,
Joel

My foreign car's frames rot quick.

Use Wurth's line of waxes, and undercoating. This is what the factory installs.

Check them out at http:www.carcareonline.com

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Re: Rust proofing and undercoating
 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 1992300e
[B]Hi all,

Quick question.



Any thoughts, pro's con's, things to avoid?

I would not use rubberized undercoating.
It will eventually crack & then trap moisture. That's worse than no protection. I agree with the waxy product, because it stays pliable & seeps into small crevices.


;)

If I'm not mistaken your car should already have undercoating on it.

I've heard good/bad about aftermarket undercoatings. The bad is that many say a new layer of undercoating on bare metal will trap moisture/air under the coating and cause concealed rotting/rust. I can't imagine it would be a problem to apply more undercoating on top of the existing coating as long as there are no cracks/breaks in the coating.

If it's completely worn off (bare metal) and your willing to properly prep the surface then it might be a good idea.


Neil,

Do you know if the Wurth's undercoating will provide the same texture as the factory? I've started detailing my undercarriage and noticed a couple of scratches (no breaks) that I wanted to restore to original appearance.

Texaco rustproofing compound
 

Here is an copy of my post three weeks ago on a similar subject:

The Texaco rustproofing compound is used by only a few rustproofing shops in the Detroit area. When I was a young engineer, I went on a quest for the best rustproofing compound in the Detroit area. I sat down with some people that manufacture Polyoleum, and found I wasn't too impressed with their product. Though it sprays on wet, it hardens to a wax consistency, which can get harder with age, delaminate, and even trap contaminants that lead to poultice corrosion.

The Type L Texaco rustproofing compound is essentially wool grease (whatever that is) with 1 to 3% stearic acid. I imagine the acid is to provide a mild etch of the substrate for better adhesion (kind of like a "flux"). There are other formulations of this compound such as for painted surfaces, but I use Type L, formulated for undercarriage.

I've adapted my paint spray gun with a long nozzle made of brake tubing to pressure spray the compound into seams, crevices, and blind areas where corrosion typically starts. (Corrosion rarely begins in the middle of a metal panel!).

The compound must be cut with mineral spirits to be sprayable. The mineral spirits evaporate leaving the greasy compound on the sprayed surfaces. This coating must be renewed every few years since - with time - the compound dries away to nothing, especially in the high-wash areas. This is no big deal, since I have yet to see rustproofing from a shop last for the life of the car. (To everyone in Chicago, how may old cars have you seen with a "Rusty Jones" sticker that look like hell?) I buy it from a wholesaler in Detroit in 5-gal pail or 1/4-keg quantities. The pail can last me around 3 jobs; and I like to spray thick!

None of my cars have ever corroded on the treated surfaces. At most, corrosion is in an odd place like the A-pillar or roof, since these places aren't really treatable, or starting from the outside inward on painted panels.

Yes, the Wurth products duplicate the factory appearance.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E

Thanks
 

Thanks for the replies and help guys.

Will look into Wurth, and thanks for the link,
Joel

Rust Protection
 

Undercoatings, sprays, etc. are hit & miss at best. If you truly want to actively inhibit rust, even inner doorseams, lug nuts, hood hinges, et al., I wholeheartedly reccomend that you go to www.counteractrust.com. I live on the ocean & installed one of their systems on my last resto project, 1986 Turbo Saab: as well as, my 1993 Ford F250, without undercoating: It works! I have ordered on for my 1985 190E that I just brought over from Idaho. It is rust free & I will keep it that way. My 2 cents.
Richard

Richard, thanks for clueing me in on this new technology. A couple of questions. How much does a system like that typically cost?... and how does the system NOT drain the battery? I've always had a keen interest - both personally and professionally - on automotive corrosion protection.

Another thing comes to mind... is there any danger to the delicate electronic components on the automobile with such a system that uses electrostatic charge throughout the car?

I've always been skeptical of such devices. My thinking is that if it's so good, how come everybody isn't using it... including the automobile manufacturers? After all, they have gone to great lengths to keep cars from rusting. Given your glowing recommendation, though, I'll have to keep an open mind. I've only skimmed through the web site. I'll have to read it thoroughly sometime.

CounterAct
 

Hello Kestas.
Depending on your application, systems run from approx. $200.00 up. All of the systems draw very little current, in fact the LED on the controll unit requires more current than the system!, and the controll units have an automatic shutoff should battery voltage be low; thus, they can never drain the battery. Regarding electronic component problems; none. In fact when talking to a tech there, the systems are just about done with all the tests required for FAA approval where electronic bleed over or distortion with sensitve avionics could prove disatrous. The system installs easily. Exterior & all the inner sheetmetal areas where undercoating or WD - 40 could never get to are protected; rocker panels, inner doors, inner firewall, spring & shock towers, etc. Plus, springs, hinges, axles, gears, lug studs, virtually everything is charged to discourage the iron - oxygen exchange. Cheap insurance for sure! Another benefit, should you sell your car, you can transfer the system to your next one by just purchasing a new coupler. I'll let you know a year from now if the chrome wheels, hood ornament, etc. on my rust free 1985 190E show any damage from the Pacific Ocean.
Richard

"essentially wool grease (whatever that is) "----Kestas

Wool Grease is Lanolin. This is used in hand lotions and many leather care products to put back into the skin the oils being lost to ( whatever, including air ) to keep the leather from drying out. For leather there is no turning back from the effects of drying out. It can be halted or slowed... but any damage from the drying and breaking of the interconnecting fibers which give leather its combination of strength and feel can not be repaired.

This use of lanolin for rust prevention has also been discussed under the name of some kind of ' film'... my Ford Tractor dealer carries it in spray and brush on... and it typically lasts several years in non washed areas... . and is thin enough not to need further thinning...

which brings up another point.... if you use something like mineral spirits to thin a product so it can be sprayed.... one would want to test it first (unless the manufacturer lists it as a suitable thinner) because some thinning agents might prevent the crosslinking and long chain formation common to the products means of becoming strong and long lasting....

I didn't realize mineral spirits can wreak havoc with polymer behavior. Not a worry with Texaco rustproofing. They specifically state to thin with mineral spirits for spray application. All the rustproofing shops I've talked to plus myself have had good luck with this compound.

I have used a British product called Waxoyl for many years with excellent results. Appears to be available in the US here:
http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/waxoyl.asp

I'm skeptical of wax-based rustproofing products. They have a tendency to harden and get brittle. Does it really hold up over the years?