300e Sub Plan?

[Smudgemo]

So to start my adventure in Becker replacement, I got an Alpine CD deck and Rainbows from La Jolla for my '86 300e, but you can imagine how non-existent the bottom end is.

I've checked out a few good-looking sub installs from past threads, and I'm wondering if anyone has an actual plan for a sub under the rear package shelf. I can build the box, mount it and run the wiring, but I would need to know the box dimensions. I don't know how to determine volume and porting, and I don't want to learn. I understand that dimensions are speaker specific, and that's okay because I haven't purchased one yet. As this isn't a rolling demo for perfect sound, I'd like to keep the speaker price around $150 or less.

I'm thinking one 10" sub would be just fine for my needs. I'll ditch the med kit and cut metal if needed, but I'd also be fine with loosing a little trunk space by mounting the speaker below the shelf (as opposed to even with it.)

Currently the deck powers the Rainbows, and unless I find an old amp or two in storage, I'll probably only run wires for a future upgrade while I'm running the sub's wiring.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, Ryan.

[HomeRunPark]

Search.


This has been brougt up a million times.

If you buy a more powerful sub - you will simply blow the gas tank out of the water.
I had you're problem, just bought a high quality sub and powerful amp, it's like the tank isn't even there.

It costs more than $150 though . . . so as for the cutting . . .

Search the forums.

I know somebody on here is all about cutting out that back deck - just can't remember who it was.

[Smudgemo]

Right. I checked the previous threads and there were some interesting designs. I'd prefer to create some path for the sound through the rear deck and use a moderate sub and amp, though.

I've already got an amp that is okay, and I can always just get the specs for a particular speaker and configure a box and mounting that will be fine, but before I do that I'm going to look for a plan that has already been done. I can't get to it right away, so I've got time for research and planning.

The only thing I'll have to buy is a speaker, so I'm open to suggestions. It just has to be a box mounted in the trunk.


Ryan

[HomeRunPark]

kicker L7;'s are suppose to be nice

other than that look for Boston Acoustics

[denim]

Kicker L7s are great subs for the money, can get very loud with not a ton of power, but for more SQ based installs they need a larger sealed box, they will do the trick well, one option is a Stereo Integrity Magnum D2, very nice sub, one of the best SQ subs out there and you dont have to pay the over hyped JL prices,

[yosshimura]

And what are we going to power this sub with? The best method I saw was a box in the trunk, take med kit out, have a shop fabricate a nice color matching speaker cover for it... and that is where the sub waves will get into the cabin...

You need to seal the sub..... $150? what where you powering the sub again with? Not the head unit I hope>....

[donbryce]

In the 300E, looking from the trunk up at the underside of the package shelf (over the gas tank): can you see the bottom of plastic boxes forming the first aid kit and storage compartments?

This is how they are fitted in my 380SE. A 1/8" thick piece of plastic with a thin slab of masonite and carpet is no barrier at all for bass transfer.

I'm using an Infinity Basslink mounted on the inner left fender (using a special bracket I fabricated), so it 'fires' across the trunk. With the gain control mounted up front, I find 1/2 way is about right 90% of the time. You shouldn't have to change a thing if this is the case, or at least, experiment before cutting anything up.

[Smudgemo]

I've got an amp laying around here somewhere I intend to use for the sub. Nothing high-end, but sufficient for now. If I decided at some point to upgrade, the wiring will already be done. At the same time I wire the sub, I'll probably also run the wires to amp the four corners. For now I'll just leave the HU to power them.

Based on other threads, it sounds like I'll be cutting some metal and removing material including the med kit to allow the sound to pass reasonably well.

The $150 was just a figure off the top of my head, and would be just for the sub speaker. I could go more expensive, but I really don't need this to be high-end. I already get myself in enough trouble for spending too much time and money on bicycles and racing them.

I just like to do projects like this, but don't want to necessarily start from scratch. Since I can build and mount my own box, perhaps my real questions is something more like, "If I buy a brand X sub, where can I get reliable box volume requirements?"

[neanderthal]

im watching this thread intently (done a search on others) since i also want to increase the bass quotient of my car, except i don't want to use a box. i reckon an 8 inch free air sub in the med kit hole should work, although i havent actually measured the hole to see if it will fit.

i think if i use the stereo to power the speakers and use the amp for the door speakers and a woofer i should be ok. any thoughts?

[Smudgemo]

Mine is an '86, so I've only got the small corner speakers. I'm using the deck to power them, and aside from any real bass, they sound pretty good. That may change once the sub is installed, but I'm just experimenting as I go.

At least there is sound. I got it as a little old lady deal and I understand the Becker hadn't worked for quite some time. Probably didn't matter much since she ran the mileage up to a whopping 38,000 over 18 years...

[Badinfo]

You can find the volume measurements at the webiste of the specific sub. They will tell you the volume of the box you need, what dimensions if you are making a ported, bandpassed, etc. Its really easy to measure the volume of a box you are making (duh) so its not a big deal at all. As far as placement, I have 3 10's in my trunk, two in a bandpass box sitting on the floor under the parcel shelf and one in the spare-tire holder/tool bucket. Since I have a 92 300e, my entire parcel shelf was made of metal so I took a dremel and cut out he area under the med kit location to make a rectangular hole. This allows plenty of bass to get through. The install is very very simple and it really just depends on how creative you want to get with your box design.

[denim]

ok it would be a good idea to find out what amp you have so we can figure out what sub to look at, because you dont want to end up buying a DVC 4ohm and your amp is only stable at 4 ohm mono

[Smudgemo]

I can't seem to locate that darn amp, but I do have a Dremel and a bunch of cut-off wheels. Guess that increases the possibilities, but I've got a baby on the way and won't have much time to get at it for awhile. Maybe I'll get a Basslink or Bazooka and just make some sound access in the parcel shelf.

Thanks for the ideas.

Ryan

[amt]

Hi All,
Do you mind to post some pic. on your sub setup?

amt

[donbryce]

This is hanging from a simple 1/8" thick piece of steel bolted to the antenna mounting support and the taillight housing. The bracket has 2 bolts welded to the face of the plate, which suspends the unit.