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#1
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My W126's sound system needs improvement.
So far I have done a little bit and it sounds pretty good. Last year I installed a new Pioneer head unit (DEH-P360) and 4 new Pioneer speakers. The front ones are just like the stock speakers except far better, and the rear ones the lady at the store said are the best speakers I can run without going to an amp.
Now this is what I would like, I was thinking about maybe adding two more speakers, and an amp, and a very small sub to get a little better base. I know the later W126's had speakers in the doors so I would need to figure out a way to retrofit them and that is going to be hard. Where else could I mount two more speakers? Also since I would have an amp I could get two better speakers in the back and take those two and mount them somewhere to give me 6 speakers. I just want the my W126 to have better sound, I am looking to spend under $1k on the amp, sub, and two speakers.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#2
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with $1K u can get a whole lot. i wish i had a budget like that
u should get 2 way component speakers, amps for them. and since these cars have a little trouble with bass, u can get a infinity bass link and mount it somewhere in the cabin.
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198? 300D ???K - Future DD 1989 300TE 285K - traded in '12 1984 300SD 186K - Sold in 08 1978 300SD 330K - Died in 05 |
#3
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I don't have the money yet! This is a summer/fall project! I wouldn't mind spending less what could I get for $500?
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#4
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here's what i did to mine.
older high end cd player (Clarion) $200 older alpine 30x4 watt amp $50 older alpine 100x2 watt amp $100 Infinity Reference 12" Sub $60 Box $50 Wiring $30 front component speakers(JL) $50 Rear infinity speakers $50 CD changer $150 comes out to about $750 but since u got like 3 out of the list, and u don't need a cd changer. it should be cheaper. i suggest looking at old top end amps and stuff. great product for a bargain.
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198? 300D ???K - Future DD 1989 300TE 285K - traded in '12 1984 300SD 186K - Sold in 08 1978 300SD 330K - Died in 05 |
#5
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Interesting I will look into that.
I also bought my head unit because it is Sat radio capible. It will cost me about $150 to add XM and I will probably do that as well.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#6
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You can do a lot with $1000...
Spend the money where it counts... on the amps. You want one that makes the same from 12v-14v. For instance 50x4 @ 14v can be 30x4 @ 12v with cheaper amps. Old PPI Art Series are great amps (if you go that route you'd have to upgrade the HU to gain internal x-overs among other things... higher volt preouts, adjustable x-over freq, time correction, etc), their next series are nice too... the Power Class. Similar design with x-overs. Lots of power, lots of clarity. Also you can look at JL amps (I have them in my Z), Xtant are great, Kicker too (made a few hrs from here), or Zapco too. All stuff that won't break the bank if you shop around used on ebay. Older HUs you can find for smokin' deals on ebay. I just got a Pio Premier for my Benz for $51 on ebay + $9 to ship, it's something for now for me. 3 sets of preouts (6v), internal x-overs, remote, XM, etc. Only took me three weeks to get one. The HU is the brain of the system, skimp there and you'll be hurting everything else. You'd be shocked how well even a small solid state 25x4 amp sounds over a head unit. Not that I'd run that power, but once you get a taste of it... I'd go with 50-70rms here so have a good solid supply always. 4awg to a dist block, I'd run 4awg to the amp but 8awg would be fine. Speakers will depend on your preferences. With more power you can run speakers that are less efficient (1w/m). They're measured in so many dBs usually such as 87, 89, 93, etc. Higher means they'll play louder with the same power. Also, I don't know if you have 4x6s front and rear or just front, but either way they don't produce a lot of bass. I'd cross them around 120-150Hz when you have a powered woofer. Oh yes, a speakers power rating you see on a box of "35w RMS" is usually a full range power figure. So when you cross them, power level increaes big time as the lil speaker isn't trying to produce a 40Hz bass note. I've yet to burn up a set of drivers and I do push my stuff at times. Brand wise, listen to what ya like and be certain to get the same brand and series in the front and rear so they're voice matched (I know this from experience! lol). Infinity Kappas are very shrill when loud to me. Boston Acoustics are nice. MB Quarts have always had a good set at all volumes. Pioneer has a good set of them. 4x6s there just isn't too much out there that have nice quality when pushed. You can have nice speakers for probably $150 if you look about on ebay. For the bass end, I dislike boomy, sloppy bass. Bass NEEDS power and lots of it. 300-500rms for a nice amp. 150-200 isn't going to cut it IMO. I'd look for a Class D amp to keep heat down and use less amperage, as it operates in a narrow powerband. I've always been a fan of JL subs since the mid 90s or so (I run one of theirs). Kickers L7s are very nice, so are the Eclipse aluminum coned ones too. But when really loud the cone likes to make it distort. The W3v2 is a great sub for the money. Just going to have to build a box for it is all. I'd go with a 12" over 10", I haven't seen my 12" have a problem with any type of music. Hope that gives ya some more ideas...
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#7
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Quote:
300-500 is a lot i run 200RMS now, back a couple of years i had a W116 and had 2 15" with around 800RMS pushing them. boy was that a crazy time. personally i like 10"s for techno and dance, which i like. but i settled for 12's since since they seem to work well all around with all music. 15"s just sounded good for rap music only
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198? 300D ???K - Future DD 1989 300TE 285K - traded in '12 1984 300SD 186K - Sold in 08 1978 300SD 330K - Died in 05 |
#8
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Quote:
10s typically are a bit tighter as they're smaller but can't play as deep as a 12. I've never been a fan of how a 15 sounded or an 18... they seem too sloppy for me. I listen to a bit of everything, and the 12 I have seems to play it all very well. Power is never the enemy in car audio.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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