Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog Tech Info Tech Forums
 
  Search our site:    
 Cart  | Project List | Order Status | Help    


Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Car Audio and Multimedia

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-10-2006, 03:02 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
Anybody understand the inner workings of a Hirschmann power antenna?

I tore my 85 300D antenna apart. It ran barely, and when I opened it I was glad I did, because it was caked with crap inside. I took the motor out cleaned it and put in new brushes and lubricated and cleaned the whole antenna case and drive assembly ( How does mud get in there....never mind, its a twenty year old car and someone took it through a swamp......) The thing is a little tricky. Now everything is clean as a whistle and the motor is so strong it can take your finger off ( I nearly did while adjusting it). NOW I CANT GET IT TO WORK RIGHT. I will post a picture within 3 hours
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-10-2006, 03:07 PM
Surf-n-Turf
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow
I tore my 85 300D antenna apart. It ran barely, and when I opened it I was glad I did, because it was caked with crap inside. I took the motor out cleaned it and put in new brushes and lubricated and cleaned the whole antenna case and drive assembly ( How does mud get in there....never mind, its a twenty year old car and someone took it through a swamp......) The thing is a little tricky. Now everything is clean as a whistle and the motor is so strong it can take your finger off ( I nearly did while adjusting it). NOW I CANT GET IT TO WORK RIGHT. I will post a picture within 3 hours
Did you get it running out of the car, then when fully installed it wouldn't work? maybe a ground.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-10-2006, 03:11 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
Theres a brown ground wire on the harness

Theres a brown ground wire on the harness. The antenna grounds itself. Thanks anyway.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-10-2006, 03:14 PM
Surf-n-Turf
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Sounds like you got it all figured out.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-10-2006, 09:56 PM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
No, the thing is pretty complicated and the white gear has to be carefully positioned


<p> The little white gear in the middle of the antenna controls the solenoid/relay contacts and shuts the motor off and raises or lowers the antenna. The white gear has all kinds of funny lobes behind it which open and shut the motor controller.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-10-2006, 10:14 PM
Craig
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I wish I could give you a useful answer, but in the past I've just cleaned mine and randomly fiddled around until they worked correctly. I have found that having the mast clean and well lubricated seems to help. The best results seem to result from using Silicon spray on the mast (everything else I've used seems to collect dirt and make things worse).
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-10-2006, 10:29 PM
Admiral Ahani's Avatar
Older = Better
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 222
I once tried to crack mine open and figure out why it doesn't work. I gave up.

Later, I had to replace the mast in the Hirschmann antenna in my 944, and the whole time, while struggling, wrestling, and cursing, I couldn't stop thinking about all the other cars out there with integrated antennae in the windshield, little sharkfin antennae, japanese cars with little simple inexpensive antenna motors, or simply fixed antennae...

I'm sorry I can't help. Maybe take it apart again and see if you left something loose. See if you can use someone else's motor as a reference. How does it not work - completely dead, or it runs but doesn't dispense the mast, or what?
__________________
'82 300TD - 345k miles, 3rd row seat deleted, w126 leather front seats, w126 front brakes, 2.47 final drive, burlwood shifter, electric locks w/ keyless entry, 16x7" wheels
'77 6.9 - a light restoration project
'87 Porsche 944 turbo
'87 Porsche 944
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-11-2006, 12:41 AM
dmorrison's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Colleyville, Texas
Posts: 2,691
Go here for a exploded view diagram. scroll down

http://www.geocities.com/odemer@sbcglobal.net/Hirschmann.html

Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-11-2006, 03:52 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: S.F. Bayarea
Posts: 195
On the lower left corner, the wire spring should catch the roller bearing arm so that the roller bearing can effect presure against the mast wire. On your picture, the wire spring does nothing.
__________________
Shane83SD
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-11-2006, 03:58 AM
123c
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
I tore into mine a few times, and got it to work good for a short time. I found it best to work on it in the trunk, with the wires still connected, so I could track the progress, and not over-do-it.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 04-11-2006, 07:55 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
Thats what I thought, thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by shane83SD
On the lower left corner, the wire spring should catch the roller bearing arm so that the roller bearing can effect presure against the mast wire. On your picture, the wire spring does nothing.
Thats what I thought, thanks---but thats just one of my problems. Unfortunately the four wires coming from the antenna were cut and they make no snese anyway because the antenna wire colors arent the same. I can lower the antenna easily, but never raise it --the four wires I have are Brown, Black, Green-Yellow and Blue. The Green Yellow wire with 12 Volts on it only make the solenoid relay chatter and buzz. I think the Green Yellow wire is the 12 Volts to raise it...This thing is like a Grandfather's clock
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-11-2006, 07:59 AM
Coming back from burnout
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: in the Pacific Northwest
Posts: 2,274
What I really have is a wiring problem

Unfortunately the four wires coming from the antenna were cut but they make no sense anyway because the antenna wire colors arent the same as the wiring harness in my car.
The four wires I have are Brown, Black, Green-Yellow and Blue.

On the workbench I can lower the antenna easily by applying 12 VDC to the black or blue wire, but I can never raise it -- The Green Yellow wire with 12 Volts on it only makes the solenoid relay chatter and buzz. I think the Green Yellow wire is the 12 Volts from the radio to raise it and the other black wire with 12VDC is the signal from the console switch to raise it to the max...Unfortunately I can get some limited twitchy buzzing raising of the antenna by tying the black and green yellow together and putting 12 VDC on it.
Also the little white gear does something to the relay/solenoid contacts and has to be oriented carefully.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-11-2006, 09:34 AM
Craig
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow
Unfortunately the four wires coming from the antenna were cut but they make no sense anyway because the antenna wire colors arent the same as the wiring harness in my car.
The four wires I have are Brown, Black, Green-Yellow and Blue.
For whatever it's worth, I've taken a look at my W123 wiring diagram and found the following:

1. The brown wire is ground, and connects to the brown wire in the car.

2. The green-yellow antenna wire connects to the blue-grey wire in the car, this is a wire from the antenna switch. This appears to be the 12V "signal" that tells the antenna to go up. There is no separate "signal" from the radio, the radio provides 12V to the switch when it's turned on and this wire has 12V if the switch is also in the "up" position.

3. My diagram shows a red wire (no blue wire) as the power supply coming from fuse number 2 on the car. I assume this is always energized to provide power to the antenna motor.

4. My diagram also shows two black wires from the antenna, both going to the antenna switch. One connects to a black wire on the car, and the other connects to a blue wire on the car. This is a little strange, but it looks like these two black wires are connected together (in the switch) to complete the circuit when the switch is in the "up" position.

Anyway, it looks to me like the following connections are needed to cycle the antenna:

Up position - Brown to ground, 12V to green-yellow wire, 12V to red wire, black wires connected together.

Down position - Brown to ground, 0V to green-yellow wire, 12V to red wire, black wires NOT connected together.

That's the best I could do from my diagram, hope it helps.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-11-2006, 02:00 PM
Dave Horvath's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Ohio
Posts: 128
From what I can remember with no mast in, the motor will run a very long time. With the mast in place the motor will run until the mast tops out and stalls the motor this kicks out some sort of overload. When power is removed from the signal wire the mast will go down and keep trying to run until it kicks out the overload again. All of this is done internaly. I think the 4 wires are
1 Hot all the time
2 Full signal wire (from dash switch) Full up
3 Partial signal wire (from dash switch) Part way up
4 Ground
it's been a while since I had one torn apart
__________________
1984 300D 210,000 owned since 85, (sold)
1984 300SD 160,000 (sold)
1989 300SE 160,00
1991 190E 192,000 (sold)
1996 320S 155,000
1997 Ford E150 215,000 (sold)
2006 Ford E150 205,000 miles
2009 CLS550 55,000
1977 Piper Archer 4800 hrs
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-11-2006, 10:42 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
I LOVE BRUNETTES
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: FUNKYTOWN
Posts: 8,410
Thumbs up

I could never get them to work properly after taking them apart to swap to a good mast. I just look for good working units.

If anyone needs some for surgery, lemme know... they're yours for shipping only.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD
'87 300SDL
'90 300SEL
'91 560SEL

Eight others from IH, BMW, GM, Ford, and Volvo.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2006, 10:42 PM
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2011 Pelican Parts - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page