Ok, I'm pretty sure I know what this one is, but before I just go recklessly applying power to unknown wires I figured I'd better ask around. Someone in the past had removed the radio, by cutting all the wires. I figured out all the speaker wires and the switched power and ground, and added in a hot wire for a memory circuit (tapped off of the hot wire pin at the hazard switch connector). I have one wire left which I believe went to the radio before for a power antenna control, it is a blue wire with stripe, individually sheilded in its own black sleeve going into the dash. Am I correct on this assumption? It does not have any power to it right now with key on or off (checked via voltmeter). If this is an antenna wire, what is the purpose of the switch on the dash? (My owners manual is in German so I cant understand the whole of it, as I'm not completely fluent).

1980 240D w/617 motor

Blue wire goes to antenna controller/wire on stereo/radio.

Sends a signal to raise or lower.


The switch on the dash provides sort of an override.
You can force antenna to stay down, and even control how
much it is extended (partial extend).

I pretty much leave my switch in the full up postion.

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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs
83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day
02 Z71 Suburban 117,000
15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles
00 Harley Sportster 24k
09 Yamaha R6
03 Ninja 250

Very good, I was suspecting that to be the case, but wanted to make sure, thanks for the input. I'll go solder that one on and I can put the new CD radio in the hole and off we go. (replaced the speakers & got rid of that little becker speaker fader switch in the console too). It's sooo nice now to not be listening to 4 raspberries......
Got my odometer working again this morning, little aluminum gear was loose on the shaft that goes thru the number drums, not having as much luck with the clock, wont work jumpered on a battery out of the car, theres still one at the wrecker where I found the odometer parts though...

What size and brand for the new front speakers? I have the back ones replaced with Sony. Can't find anything to fitthe front properly. Either too tall, or not wide enough. I was told the front take size 4M, but I can't seem to find any.

Thanks!

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

the electrolytic caps tend to go on the clocks, due to age.

I suggest replacing it (it's a common value - ratshack carrys)

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)

Well, the speakers I saw on a discount shelf in the wrecker's office, they were Polk brand-never heard of em but they looked like decent poly speakers that "should fit", they were just a little too big to fit all the way down in the holes in the rear deck. I got creative in true redneck styling (cant look any worse than the rattle can spots all over the rust holes) and screwed them on over the old speaker holes, then the grilles wouldnt fit over the mounting ears, but fit over the cones, so I dabbed some clear RTV on the ears and pressed the grilles in place, actually looks pretty clean when all was said and done. Works for a commuter,lol.

I'll look at replacing the caps in the clock tomorrow, I should have a few dozen of em somewheres in my electronics stashes. I still need to go to the wrecker to get the engine mount arm anyway, so I'll still probably pick up the other clock for parts while there, its already out on the floorboard (last time I saw it)

Update on the antenna issue: well, the good news was I soldered the wire on and it worked as it should, bad news was the antenna still wouldnt go up by itself, down worked fine though, took it out, disassembled and cleaned thoroughly, resoldered all solder joints, inspected connectors soldered contact pads to arms where they were crimped together, and it worked a few cycles and quit again, this was the saga all evening, finally discovered I had 9 volts going to the relay to latch in "up" inside the antenna. Got it working to a point I could slap the quarter panel and make it rise (guess the car is into S&M,lol). Sat in the car to play with the new radio and turned on, the antenna went halfway up and blew out the fuse, hard. Key off, changed fuse and it blew in my hand. Unhooked antenna connector and fuse is fine, pulled mast out to full extension and called it done. When/if the antenna gets broke off I'll go get a one piece flexible generic from Radioshack or the wrecker.

I recall once reading some MBZ manuals and such that the switch that allows you to position the antenna at half height is so that you can better locate local stations with strong signals. Once you locate the station of your choice with antenna at half height, you raise the antenna back up full height for many hours of listening pleasure!

Mark

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1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)

Interesting, sort of like "rabbit hunting" with CB radios....
I just figured it was for bad weather or something to help avoid breaking...
I fixed the short this morning, turns out I had run a screw thru the motor wire when I put the cover back on, got it to run up a few times and quit again, so I put it all the way up and pulled off the connector.

Went back to the wrecker this morning, they had crushed the car yesterday...only one they had...DOH! Still searching for a motor mount. Did replace the clock caps, found one had a leg corroded off inside the cap, clock works great now. Went to test radio again, turned on and went off....oh no, not again!...wait, the whole car's dead.....oops, ran the battery dead with all the messing around of things I was doing yesterday, lol nothing the charger wont fix.