Folks, I'm in the middle of installing a new head unit and speakers in Hans (1983 300D), and was wondering if anyone had any recommendation for a relatively inexpensive amp and a ~10" subwoofer that I could place under the first aid kit hole or perhaps mount it in a box and place it in the back seat floor (no one ever rides back there). I have heard of some older amps being available on eBay, but I have no idea what to look for. I think when mounting my radio I will go ahead and plug in the sub woofer wires to the RCA jacks on the back of the radio, in the event that you all come up with a relatively inexpensive combination!

Thanks so much in advance for all your help!

Not sure exactly what your looking for in the way of channels, power, etc., but speaking in general terms Profile amps are pretty good and are inexpensive.

I got a really good deal off eBay for a 6 channel, 100 watt per channel Swiss Audio SX6600 for my Porsche. Great amp.

Others to look at might be Infinity,MTX,Alpine

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Andy_M
'98 W140 S320 Black/Black
'06 W164 ML500 AMG White/Grey
'03 Porsche 986 Midnight Blue/Grey

If you go through with this, shoot some pics if you can. I would be greatly interested in seeing how you place the speaker. I've been thinking of doing this myself.

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1989 300E 144K

I'm really looking for something like a low profile 10-12" speaker to mount underneath the hole in the hat rack where the first aid goes. The issue there is that the diesel tank is located right underneath that area, and there isn't much room there.
I just need enough amp to adequately power the speaker.
Has anyone successfully done this, and if so, what type of speaker did you use?

Thanks again for your help!

An alterior to this, and one I've seriously been contemplating, is cutting a concave in a box, so that it will fit nicely on top of the driveshaft hump in the backseat. Any other ideas?

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1989 300E 144K

Has anyone tried the Bazooka amplified subwoofers?, and if so, would you mind sharing your experiences?

Thanks so much in advance for your help!

I put a 100W 10" Bazooka tube in the trunk of a 126 85 500SEL and was happy with it. I removed the tray from the first aid kit and proped open the cover to get the bass into the cabin. I was suprised how much of a difference there was by having the cover closed. I wanted to mount it vertically directly under the first aid opening but I got a 1/2 price deal on a "open box" 10" and it ended up that it was too long to get it into place. I believe the 8" would have fit. I ended up mounting it horizontally to the plate that covers the gas tank. I placed it so that it would be loaded by the trunk side wall close to the first aid box. Warning remove the plate that covers the tank before you drill.

That said it was more boom then bump. You really need to hear the tube to tell if you would be happy with it. If the port is unloaded it will not sound as good. You will end up with a whoosh instead of a boom. I mention this because some stores do not set them up so that they are loaded. Or you might question why they pointed the port at the floor for loading. I was just trying to add some bass to the stock speaker setup so it worked for me at the time.

I have since changed cars and setup. Search my posts for my latest setup. I now have more bump then boom.

Circuit City used to have a portable Bazooka tube setup that you could hear it in your car. I do not know if they still do this.

I my self have a system in the trunk and let me tell you my user name says it all. I don't think that you will be able to put a 10 in the rear deck of the car because of clearance issues. I thought of putting subs under the back seat as well but the idea feel under water. If I was to put subs under the backseat it would most likely be 2 8" woofers. Sealed, Not ported. If you seal the box the sub can hit lower frequencies with out distortion. Also try to get Dual Voice Coil subs this will make it a lot cheaper, because you wont need two amps. These type of speakers have two drivers in them so there are two inputs but if you wire them a certain way they can transfer the signal to the other sub. as for amps just get something with at least 250 watts and it can be a mono channel amp. Get at least 250 because on cheaper amps the higher it is turned up the more distortion there will be. Remember you can always turn down the output on the amp its self. hope that this is helpful.

WHAT!!!!! Why would you need 2 amps? That's rediculous. Go to http://www.bcae1.com for some schooling.

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If you connect two subs to a monoblock amp in parallel then it will split the power between the two but it will also lower the impedance of the amp. this will result in less performance from the amp. Instead of getting 400 watts rms you get around 200 watts rms. You will also have the amp get hotter because of that. and putting the amp under the backseat will create even more heat.

Actually, the impedence is an inverse relation to power (watts)...reducing the impedence by 1/2 (e.g. 4 ohms to 2 ohms) would double the power output (200 w/ch to 400 w/ch). But as you stated, the reduction in load is what causes the amp to generate more heat than it would at its rated output.

Amps require a load to operate properly, and many are unstable when the impedence falls below a certain level. Some expensive amps are designed to be stable as far down as 0.5 ohms!!!

Many car audio competitors used to "cheat" by competing in a lower wattage class, then run the premium amps at low impedences to increase wattage and gain points in the loudness category.

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2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle
2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car
2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver
2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car

i plan on puttin 4 12's in my 88 300se ... depending on how well the sound goes through th etwo box holes when removed i might just cut out the back panel by the rear window and install a thick chrome plated screen to allow maximum air flow .. gonna pound like a porno star