Another thought is the dome light. When you open the doors the switch grounds the circuit. You could tap into the + wire and then ground it via the grounding points under the gauges, would that work?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

well for bridging you need to know if the amp is capable and then you need to look into phase. my advice to you is to just dont worry about bridging it.

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http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...titled-1-3.jpg
1981 300d

its still switched. Any loss of constant power results in a loss of memory settings

even if it is able to work it is still easier to just run a new line. He has to run 8 gauge wire to the hood so one more wire is no biggy.

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http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...titled-1-3.jpg
1981 300d

Boom has it right. The easiest way to power that amp in the back is to run a wire (I've got a 4G running into a distributor and 8G running to my amps) from your battery to the amp in the back. It's got constant power and I tap off of it to provide the constant power to most of the other instruments that require constant power (makes troubleshooting much easier).

I'd recommend having a fuse right at the battery (mine's 100v fuse which is wayyy overkill - a 60v would be fine). Even if it did not have a fuse and you ran a wire from the battery to the amp, your amp has failsafe fuses, usually rated at 5v/12v/15v, but you probably want something between there to simplify the troubleshooting process should something come up.

As for your sound field, I side with the guys that say disconnect the rear speakers and just run the fronts. I've got two Kenwood Excelons in the front pushing 120w and two 15" Kicker L7's in the back - enough to crack the trunk

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1989 300E - Mafia Car

And you thought one 15in. L7 was loud...

my amp wiring kit from crutchfield just arrived. but alas, I do not have the time to install it

tomorrow!!!

I wired it up and boy does it hit!

I need to go through and sort out the rattles and tuck the wires a little better.. but.. it works!

Ah yes, bass congrats!

Your biggest rattles are going to be from the license plate, the vents on the side of the trunk (simple PIA), and if you're hitting hard enough, your rear brake light under the windshield will rattle

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1989 300E - Mafia Car

And you thought one 15in. L7 was loud...

oh yea. I'll have to fab up something to stop the plate from rattling

I just so happen to have some sound deadening material here. It's an industrial grade sample (12x12 inch square) .. I'll cut it and glue it to the back of the plate as well.

winmutt suggested I put some polyfill in the sub box to artifiially increase the internal volume. I have a 10lb box of polyfill and tons of spare time to experiment.

has anyone ever done this?

link to an article on the subject

http://www.lalena.com/Audio/FAQ/Build/

I've never tried polyfill, and never seen a reason to. I've heard subs back to back with and without it and can't notice a difference in outside noise. It IS however, supposed to give smoother/sharper hits on the 40-120Hz range.

Another thing you can use to deaden sound is roofing tar strips. It's the same thing as Dynomat but without the shiny aluminum on one side. I've got it in my trunk and it does the trick. Cheap too.

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1989 300E - Mafia Car

And you thought one 15in. L7 was loud...

increasing the size of the box can be a bad thing sometimes. find out what the optimum size box is for the woofers and stick to that. polyfill is only use if you had space issues and you needed to make the box feel bigger. The box that you are using looks big enough you would want to go larger from what it looks like.

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http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...titled-1-3.jpg
1981 300d

So I got my starting woes fixed (new cables fixed it right up) and now I am back to Bumping along w/ a 1200w 15" . Another trick for silencing the trunk lid (if it needs it) is great stuff expanding foam in the areas between the supports and skin of the trunk. I used the big gap filler and covered it w/ dynamat, silent except for whats coming form INSIDE the trunk.

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'81 300D - swapped to a 617.951 turbo motor with a 150 amp alt.

That's from a Saturday Night live skit, isn't it?

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Christopher Walken is great!
http://webfeedcentral.com/2005/01/21/more-cowbell-video/

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

He was terrific in the SNL skit, "The Continental"

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles