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  #1  
Old 05-13-2008, 01:42 PM
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Wiring an amplified subwoofer to the battery

I am installing a powered Boss 600W subwoofer under the drivers seat of my 1984 300TD and will need to wire the hot lead directly to the battery (or so the manual says). Does anybody have suggestions on (A) where to run the cable through the firewall and (B) what to actually attach the wire at the battery to (for example, is there some sort of accessory port attached to the positive lead on the battery, or do I just attach it directly to the bolt that holds the clamp to the battery post)

Also, will a 600watt amp create any problems with my stock alternator?

Your suggestions are greatly appreciated!

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  #2  
Old 05-13-2008, 01:46 PM
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do you have the proper wiring? I used 8 gauge wire to power the amp. It came in a kit to wire up an amp. I connected directly to the positive side of the battery clamp.Make sure its fused as well. Mine has a big 60 amp fuse
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  #3  
Old 05-13-2008, 01:57 PM
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Yes, I actually ordered a kit with 8 gauge wire and a fuse. I initially bought all the wiring at radio shack, but then realized it was cheaper and easier just to buy the kit from crutchfield! Where did you run the cable through the firewall out of curiosity? Any problems with the power draw on your alternator?

Thanks!
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  #4  
Old 05-13-2008, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Also, will a 600watt amp create any problems with my stock alternator?
No. Should be fine. Lights may dim a wee bit if you get a long, sustained hit, or a really low inaudible hit.

My power line is run from the fuse box though the firewall in the wire cluster below the steering wheel.
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  #5  
Old 05-13-2008, 04:20 PM
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Hey Aaron,

I ran the power wire for my amp through the firewall on the passenger side. I mounted the amp in the spot for the first-aid kit, so I ran the wire along with the vacuum lines from the back all the way into the engine bay.

You can go through the firewall on the driver side like Polish Guy mentioned, I would just make a drip loop in the wire on the engine bay side of the firewall and run it over to the battery.
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  #6  
Old 05-13-2008, 04:20 PM
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The connection to the battery is just a ring connector. It's the brass ring on the left side of the terminal.

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  #7  
Old 05-13-2008, 04:27 PM
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This is great guys, thank you very much.

Chad, I'd love to stick the sub back there, but, it's a one-piece sub/amp combo, and I don't think it will fit in that area. It's nice that it's all in one box, but it does take up a decent amount of space. Should go under the rear of my drivers seat, might take up a little foot room in the rear passenger area, but, don't usually have riders back there anyway.

Here's the sub I got:
http://www.BossAudio.com/main/649

By the way, I'm wrapping up my floorboard repair... what a nightmare that was!!!!
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  #8  
Old 05-13-2008, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronkobi View Post
This is great guys, thank you very much.

Chad, I'd love to stick the sub back there, but, it's a one-piece sub/amp combo, and I don't think it will fit in that area. It's nice that it's all in one box, but it does take up a decent amount of space. Should go under the rear of my drivers seat, might take up a little foot room in the rear passenger area, but, don't usually have riders back there anyway.

Here's the sub I got:
http://www.BossAudio.com/main/649

By the way, I'm wrapping up my floorboard repair... what a nightmare that was!!!!
That sub is very cool. Let me know how it sounds when it's all hooked up.

With my 10" sub mounted in the spare tire well, the sound field gets distorted if I have too much volume to the rear speakers. I wonder if yours being under the seat will lessen that issue.

I'm looking forward to seeing some pics of your repairs. I'm glad to hear you're getting closer to the finish line.
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1986 300SDL - Coda
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  #9  
Old 05-13-2008, 04:37 PM
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I think I'll keep the photos of "Franken-floorboard" to myself... I'll get attacked by the purists if I post them on this board. ;-)

It aint purdy, but, it's certainly strong, probably stronger than it was from the factory.

I never want to tackle a project like that again... live and learn, right?
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  #10  
Old 05-14-2008, 02:30 PM
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Don't mean to hijack, but I'd like to know what you did to your floorboards, The ones in my backseat area feel like they're rusted through almost. I couldn't see any rust from underneath, but there was a lot of give when I stepped into the backseat.
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Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
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  #11  
Old 05-14-2008, 02:31 PM
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I was also wondering what you paid for your subwoofer?
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles
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  #12  
Old 05-14-2008, 02:53 PM
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Hey Dee8go, I paid $115 for the subwoofer on Amazon! Great deal, right? Seems like it's pretty highly rated too. Won't rattle the windows, but will add rich bass to the 4 inch speakers in the wagon. While I was at it, I also bypassed the fader and installed new wiring... that ALONE improved the audio quality considerably.

As far as the floorboards go, I'll put some pics up and send them to you guys. I used a combo of welds, rivets and fiberglass. Lots of thick steel welded into areas that were heavily rusted. It was a LOT of work. I took a week off and still didn't finish it. When it's all said and done, I think I will have spent about 60 hours on the floorboards alone! But, I do feel like the job was done as good as it could have been without actually cutting the floor out and replacing the pans altogether. In hindsight, that may have actually taken less time and as a result, cost me less...
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  #13  
Old 05-14-2008, 02:59 PM
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Thanks. Yeah, if you don't mind posting pictures, I'd lke to see what you did to yours.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles
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  #14  
Old 05-15-2008, 11:54 AM
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So I hooked up the sub, everything went well, then I turned it on and the indicator light was red (should have been green). I wiggled some wires, the fuse popped. Zap! So I tightened things up, tightened the ground, put another fuse in... POP!

Turns out I had the hot lead from the battery going into the ground socket and the ground going into the hot lead socket... I can't believe that I didn't fry my new amp/subwoofer... gotta love stupid mistakes like that.

It's working great now, the sound of the system is unreal. i highly recommend bypassing the factory fader, installing new speaker wires and installing a sub if you just have 4" speakers.

Getting closer to having a driveable car again!
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2008, 12:24 PM
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I have cleaned the factory-installed fader before and found it made a world of difference. I guess if you have a fader on your head unit, you don't really need the one on the car.

I'm leary of fooling around with the wiring in mine too much. For me to mess with electrical stuff is usually a recepie for disaster.

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles
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