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-   -   Keyless entry in a 300CD (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/car-audio-multimedia/241169-keyless-entry-300cd.html)

Chad300tdt 12-27-2008 11:03 AM

Keyless entry in a 300CD
 
I just installed a keyless entry system in my 1985 300CD.

I only used the master actuator to operate the vacuum central locks. Now both of my w123's are keyless.:cool:

I cut the wires that are used for the slave actuators out of the harness to lighten the wire bundle.

Here's the door and the red lines show the position of the master actuator. You can see the holes for the screws too. I only had to drill the top hole. I used a few washers on the top screw between the door and the actuator to hold it at the proper angle so it wouldn't bind with the door.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/Actuator.jpg

Here you can see how I connected the actuator push rod to the door lock linkage. I had to cut a small piece of the push rod and tape it to the door lock linkage so the connector bug would have enough to grab onto. (The door lock linkage is a thin strip of metal.)

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...er/Linkage.jpg

I tapped into #2 on the fuse block which is for the clock and I grounded to the E-Brake pedal bolts. The receiver is zip tied under the knee panel below the dash. It was a PITA running the wires through the accordian at the door hinge.:rolleyes:

I got the Keyless entry kit on ebay for $35 shipped and it comes with 2 fobs.:cool:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REMOTE-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-4-DOOR-KEYLESS-ENTRY-SYSTEM-M_W0QQitemZ120353608581QQihZ002QQcategoryZ33723QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ht_4715wt_1083

The CD was easier than the TD to hook up the linkage. I had to drill both holes in the TD and the push rod needed creative bending to make it work. I'll take pictures of the TD's linkage the next time I have the door panel off.

Jeremy5848 12-27-2008 11:10 AM

Good job, looks very much like my 300D installation 2 years ago.

running-snail 12-27-2008 03:56 PM

Nice photos Chad. I ordered another unit from the same vendor. I installed a similar unit about 1 year ago but it has since stopped working. I'm anxious to determine if it's the control unit or the actuator that has failed.

I also did some creative bending with the actuator rod; looks like a much simpler install in a CD

lowriderdog37 12-27-2008 04:31 PM

I wonder if there is a way to program a remote for an alarm to work with something like this. My alarm is going to be coming soon.

Chad300tdt 12-27-2008 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowriderdog37 (Post 2060700)
I wonder if there is a way to program a remote for an alarm to work with something like this. My alarm is going to be coming soon.

There are 2 wires on the receiver that can be hooked into an alarm system. The link to the ebay auction mentions that you can make it work with the remote from the alarm as you arm and disarm it.

Quote:

You can also connect it up to your alarm system giving you the ability to activate/deactivate your alarm and lock/unlock your doors at the push of a button using your alarm remote control.

ForcedInduction 12-27-2008 10:56 PM

Looks good. Thats almost exactly what I did for my car.

RML 12-27-2008 11:39 PM

Nice goin' Chad. Now if I just had that kind of time right now . . .

charmalu 12-28-2008 10:55 AM

with this system installed, the key can still be used to open/lock the door?
need an over ride incase of power loss.

Looks good Chad.

Charlie

::matthew 12-28-2008 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu (Post 2061112)
with this system installed, the key can still be used to open/lock the door?
need an over ride incase of power loss.

Looks good Chad.

Charlie

yes. I did the same thing. The electrical actuator connects to the vertical "pipe" for the knob and simply simulates you manually pulling the knob up or down to lock/unlock. There will be no visible evidence of the system.

EDIT: the knob is vertical in a sedan, but this pictorial is for a coupe

Chad300tdt 12-28-2008 01:33 PM

Thanks guys.:)

Charlie, as ::matthew already stated, the system still works as the factory intended. The master actuator doesn't resist at all when you use the key. In a worst case scenario where maybe the push rod and connector bug come off and possibly jam the door lock mechanism, you can always use the passenger door.;)

Benefits of keyless entry:

- makes you look really cool in the parking lot
- saves door lock tumblers
- never have to fumble with keys in the dark
- never have to worry about frozen door locks in winter
- one button opens ALL doors no matter what door you're at
:cool:

charmalu 12-28-2008 03:21 PM

The thing I have never liked about these cars, is when the drivers door is unlocked, the other 3 doors unlock at the same time. now the problem with this is at night in a parking lot or some other undesirable area of town, I may only want to open the drivers door. never know if some evil person is lerking on the other side of the car to jump in with you or your wife.

Would be nice to wire one of these systems to only open drivers door, or what ever combination of doors at the time.

might be a more complicated than it is worth.

Charlie

pizzachef 12-28-2008 08:21 PM

Good job Chad, I love my keyless entry.
I'm sure that pic will help out people in the future. My wagon is arranged a little differently...I had to drill two holes on the rear edge of the door and mount the actuator there. And my master vacuum switch is located a little higher, right under the lock knob if I remember right, so the connector rod took some bending. I'm sure there are more differences than that on the coupe doors :D One cool thing about the kit I got (also from ebay, around $35) is the flashing lights when locking/unlocking. The funny things is, every so often it flashes twice for "lock" and its only supposed to flash once (and its not me pushing the wrong button). Very confusing when you're trying to make sure your doors are locked.

One recommendation I'd offer is to use loctite on the screws on the "bug" (I didn't know it was called that :rolleyes:). Mine came loose after a few months. The solenoid hits the linkage with a pretty good force, and the total travel of the solenoid is longer than the total travel of the lock knob, so the bug gets the full force of the solenoid when the lock knob reaches the extreme of its travel. Also, I was probably a wimp and didn't tighten down on those screws enough the first time. Either way, now its got loctite...I rather a positive connection, for now the friction connection will have to work. Next time it comes loose, its getting JB weld :cool:

Chad300tdt 12-28-2008 09:01 PM

On my wagon, I didn't use the bug. I bent the end of the rod and slipped it into the lock clip of the door lock linkage. I really need to take a pic of the setup. Maybe I'll take the door panel off tomorrow.

Johnhef 12-28-2008 09:17 PM

Looks good Chad. I may order one for the SEC, anyone do a 126 with this kit yet?

ForcedInduction 12-28-2008 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu (Post 2061296)
The thing I have never liked about these cars, is when the drivers door is unlocked, the other 3 doors unlock at the same time. now the problem with this is at night in a parking lot or some other undesirable area of town, I may only want to open the drivers door. never know if some evil person is lerking on the other side of the car to jump in with you or your wife.

Thats no different than any other power door lock system in existence.


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