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  #31  
Old 07-01-2009, 02:01 PM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
^^Nice work!
Thanks!
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
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"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

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1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #32  
Old 07-10-2009, 02:44 PM
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I hate to bust your bubble, but that McIntosh costs insanely more money for a VERY good reason.....in terms of sound quality, that Kenwood couldn't wipe the Mac's ass when it goes to the bathroom !!!

It ain't about looks man, it's about the SOUND........


....but for most of the world......that Kenwood unit will do just fine. It's a fine unit and you will no doubt be pleased with it, just don't try and compare it to a McIntosh please. Like comparing the handling of a VW bug to a Porsche.
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  #33  
Old 07-10-2009, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_M View Post
I hate to bust your bubble, but that McIntosh costs insanely more money for a VERY good reason.....in terms of sound quality, that Kenwood couldn't wipe the Mac's ass when it goes to the bathroom !!!

It ain't about looks man, it's about the SOUND........


....but for most of the world......that Kenwood unit will do just fine. It's a fine unit and you will no doubt be pleased with it, just don't try and compare it to a McIntosh please. Like comparing the handling of a VW bug to a Porsche.
Don't worry, you're not bursting any bubble.

I never compared the sound quality between the McIntosh and the Kenwood. I only stated that it had a similar feel in the looks department. I also understand why the McIntosh is more money.

Please read my comments in post 9 and see where I already addressed this.
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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #34  
Old 10-06-2009, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
Thanks Bryan.


I snipped the plug end off the wires that lead to the fader wheel and pulled them back into the head unit area. This made just enough room to feed the USB Port and cable through to the fader wheel spot.

Once I had the fader wires pulled back I removed the plastic sheathing and snipped all the cross wiring out so I was left with the 4 speaker wires. I determined which wire went to which speaker with a AA battery.
exacto knife and carefully trimmed the center of the cap out so the port could slide up flush with the top of the cap. Then I filed the fader wheel opening so the cap and port could fit into it. I took my time to make sure I got a very snug fit when it was all closed together. Then I fished the cable through the console fader wheel opening, snapped the fader wheel and the USB port all together and snapped the unit into the console opening.
A further bit of info for us wired challenged please.
You have four wires for four speakers? I'm working on the SD, same wiring set up AFAIK, and find four wires that the color corresponds to the rear speakers, positive and negative. So it seems that the front wires are somewhere I can't locate.
Any help would be appreciated.
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  #35  
Old 10-06-2009, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
A further bit of info for us wired challenged please.
You have four wires for four speakers? I'm working on the SD, same wiring set up AFAIK, and find four wires that the color corresponds to the rear speakers, positive and negative. So it seems that the front wires are somewhere I can't locate.
Any help would be appreciated.
I don't remember the colors of the wires, but I meant 4 pairs of wires (+ & -).

When I pulled it all apart I saw which wires were coming from the head unit.

Two wires lead to 2 bug connections where 3 wires come together on each. These are the links between the front and rear speakers and the head unit. The other two wires go to the fader wheel.

IIRC the fader cross wiring was black with a red stripe and black with a green stripe. Once those all are cut out, you're left with the 4 pairs of speaker wires.

Hold the negative and positive wires to the ends of a AA battery and the speaker that they lead to will crackle.
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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #36  
Old 10-06-2009, 03:01 PM
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why not send your original becker in for a rebuild and miniplug aux in install?
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1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
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1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
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2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
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  #37  
Old 10-06-2009, 06:00 PM
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^ Thanks but I have an aftermarket unit sitting around that is much newer and I have taken the old Becker apart, its currently in a landfill.

I have taken out the fader, you see in the pic there is a plug with four wires going to a plug that has two wires, I'll have to get a hold of the color code info in my note book, maybe the answer is somewhere in that plug, thanks Chad.
Attached Thumbnails
Good looking Head unit for a w123-radio.jpg  
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  #38  
Old 10-06-2009, 06:19 PM
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The pic you attached looks like the plugs that go to the back of the Becker.

The big block has all the power, illumination, etc. and the 2 smaller ones are the left and right output from the head unit. The 2 smaller ones lead to the fader wheel and have the cross wiring to add the rear speakers to it. The ends of all the speaker wires are inside the plastic sheathed wire bundle that's inside the console under the fader wheel. At least that's where they are in the 123s.

You can order a wiring adapter from Crutchfield to plug that big block to your new head unit wiring harness. Then you won't need to cut that plug off and solder everything in the car. The wiring adapter and the harness/plug from your new head unit can be connected and soldered together at your work bench and then everything just plugs together in the car.
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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #39  
Old 10-06-2009, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwrock View Post
What do you guys think of Precision Power and Soundstream amps?
It depends on which ones and date of production. I've heard a lot of good feedback on Soundstream amps, not sure to the specifics (I'd assume older models). Precision Power or PPI are excellent amps, but again older ones... from the "Art Series" to the PC series model line (Made in the US). The newer ones are made in some foreign country and the quality isn't the same.

I have an old school PPI Art Series Amp (A300) in my M3, powering CDT components



Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
....Here's the subwoofer installation:


I removed the first aid kit box and saw that the subwoofer touched the fuel tank so I needed to make a riser to give the clearance needed. I made the riser with MDF and covered it with marine grade vinyl. I used 1-1/2" long brass tubes as spacers to hold the lid from the first aid kit up to allow the sub to breath. There is a rubber faucet washer above and below the lid to absorb the bass vibrations and the bolt is screwed into a captive nut under the riser. I needed to drill two holes in the rear deck so the riser would have 4 screws holding it in place since the first aid kit is only held in with the back edge of the box and two screws at the front edge.

I may still go back and paint the bolt heads and washers so they match the cover, but it's not too bad as is.
Very clever sub setup, how does the IB install sound? I was thinking of a single sealed 10" woofer, but I need to find a way to get it into the cabin.
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  #40  
Old 10-06-2009, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
Hold the negative and positive wires to the ends of a AA battery and the speaker that they lead to will crackle.

That usually helps. I had to rewire an 85 300DT to put an aftermarket CD in for somebody. I clipped the fader wheel to take it out of the picture. With a AA battery, one can figure it out.

IIRC, the fader has four sets of wires going to it. two go straight to the headunit. Two return straight to the front wires. Then there are two positive and two ground, which go to the rear speakers.

What happens is that the grounds from the headunit loop back and go directly to the grounds for the front speakers. As a result, to get into the wiring for the front two speakers, you need to grab it in the dash, behind the headunit, where they make their runs to the fronts.

You should see the two leads that go to the headunit. Those arent worth anything. At least in a w123, they fit into a pair of pin/spade MB audio connectors to the right of the AT shifter, tucked away. From there, they go into a shrinkwrapped harness. Inside the harness, the grounds from the HU are cut and spliced into the circuit for the two fronts. The positive wires from the HU and to the front speakers continue back to the fader wheel.

The fader then just limits current to the front speakers, and routes the difference to the rears. The rears complete a full circuit via the fader.

So you cut the rear speaker wires completely at the fader. Done, you can use them right from there. Cut the front wires and you have nothing. Just follow the harness and see where it comes out under the dash - youll figure what wires continue from there (fairly easy to see), and you can just cut them someplace convenient from there.

For me, in my 240D, I think Ill buy a clean, new fader, and clean the contacts well. I have a refurbished becker OE headunit with ipod input. Ill pull the two leads from the fader, send them line level to an amp, then send the signal back to the speakers via new wire. This way I maintain fader control and original HU setup, yet get an amp and new speakers.
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Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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