Good looking Head unit for a w123 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

TheDon · #16 03-11-2009, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

Do you ever find good deals on used ones?

if I had a McIntosh I wouldn't sell it. But the internet is your friend

I was thinking about getting one for the SDL but decided I can spend a grand on something more useful.

Chad300tdt · #17 03-11-2009, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

if I had a McIntosh I wouldn't sell it. But the internet is your friend

I was thinking about getting one for the SDL but decided I can spend a grand on something more useful.

EXACTLY!

The Kenwood I bought looks close enough, will work well enough and was $130 shipped and including the install kit.

TheDon · #18 03-11-2009, 02:49 PM

this McIntosh amp went for like $455

http://cgi.ebay.com/MCINTOSH-MC420-Car-Amplifier-Amp-original-owner_W0QQitemZ120385177837QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item120385177837&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A13|39%3A1|240%3A1318

6 channel amps are going for like 5-600$

and the head unit went for like $650

http://cgi.ebay.com/MCINTOSH-MX406-SQ-UNIT-THE-BEST_W0QQitemZ320345154826QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers?hash=item320345154826&_trks id=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A13|39%3A1|240%3A1318

so.. if you can score those pieces for that price you can have an audiophile car headunit and amp for like $1200.. then you need good speakers....

I need to stop looking since I can feel my wallet draining already

Chad300tdt · #19 03-11-2009, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

this McIntosh amp went for like $455

http://cgi.ebay.com/MCINTOSH-MC420-Car-Amplifier-Amp-original-owner_W0QQitemZ120385177837QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item120385177837&_trksid=p3286.c0. m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A13|39%3A1|240%3A1318

6 channel amps are going for like 5-600$

and the head unit went for like $650

http://cgi.ebay.com/MCINTOSH-MX406-SQ-UNIT-THE-BEST_W0QQitemZ320345154826QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers?hash=item320345154826&_trks id=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A13|39%3A1|240%3A1318

so.. if you can score those pieces for that price you can have an audiophile car headunit and amp for like $1200.. then you need good speakers....

I need to stop looking since I can feel my wallet draining already

Those are good prices for used McIntosh stuff.

A new MCC406M runs about $1600.
http://www.highdecibels.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCC406M

http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/products/881.asp

iwrock · #20 03-11-2009, 03:00 PM

What do you guys think of Precision Power and Soundstream amps?

Chad300tdt · #21 03-11-2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

What do you guys think of Precision Power and Soundstream amps?

I haven't used them myself, but the guy I bought all my JL Audio stuff from sold Precision Power amps and raved about them. Are they still around?

I think the Soundstream stuff is a bit higher end, but both would be acceptable for anything I'd do.

Both are very affordable compared to McIntosh Labs.

iwrock · #22 03-11-2009, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I haven't used them myself, but the guy I bought all my JL Audio stuff from sold Precision Power amps and raved about them. Are they still around?

I think the Soundstream stuff is a bit higher end, but both would be acceptable for anything I'd do.

Both are very affordable compared to McIntosh Labs.

I had JL amps in my car for a while, and took it out and replaced it with some older Precision Power Amps.

I have some Soundstream stuff sitting on the shelf I thought about installing, but dont want to mess with the stereo.... I just finished rewiring it yesterday.

Chad300tdt · #23 03-16-2009, 06:27 PM

I finished the install. Here are the pics:

winecountryone · #24 03-16-2009, 10:23 PM

I remember reading somewhere the MAC car amps were actually made by Clarion.I suspect the head units might have been done by them as well.
I'm running an early Nakamichi head unit I picked up used a couple of years back.It has a pretty healthy internal amp,but I am still considering an external amp.If I go that route I'll need to re-cut a new rear deck panel to put component speakers in the SL.My concern is flashy=theft risk where I live!

Rafi · #25 03-18-2009, 06:22 PM

[QUOTE=Chad300tdt;2141354]I finished the install. Here are the pics:

Chad, looks super. I am getting the same unit. How did you put the USB socket into the fader? can you give me step by setp please?

bgkast · #26 03-18-2009, 06:39 PM

Very crafty!

Chad300tdt · #27 03-18-2009, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

Very crafty!

Thanks Bryan.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rafi

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I finished the install. Here are the pics:

Chad, looks super. I am getting the same unit. How did you put the USB socket into the fader? can you give me step by setp please?

Thanks. I didn't take pics of the steps but I'll try to describe it.

First I removed the ash tray and console and removed the fader wheel unit from the console.

I snipped the plug end off the wires that lead to the fader wheel and pulled them back into the head unit area. This made just enough room to feed the USB Port and cable through to the fader wheel spot.

Once I had the fader wires pulled back I removed the plastic sheathing and snipped all the cross wiring out so I was left with the 4 speaker wires. I determined which wire went to which speaker with a AA battery.

The rest is wiring as the diagrams tell you.

To fit the USB port in the fader wheel unit, I popped the side of the fader wheel unit off. It has 4 posts and the side cover can be gently pried off with a small screwdriver. With the side off, the wheel can be removed.

I then broke off the contact strips that are riveted into the housing using needle nose pliers. Then I test fit the USB plug. The cover didn't close all the way so I carefully filed the posts that hold the wheel in the housing until they were just short enough to hold the USB port snugly when the side was popped back on.

The USB port comes with a protective cap that I used as the finish trim around the port. It also helps hold everything in place firmly. I took an exacto knife and carefully trimmed the center of the cap out so the port could slide up flush with the top of the cap. Then I filed the fader wheel opening so the cap and port could fit into it. I took my time to make sure I got a very snug fit when it was all closed together. Then I fished the cable through the console fader wheel opening, snapped the fader wheel and the USB port all together and snapped the unit into the console opening.

It fits so snugly that I didn't need to glue anything. It doesn't move at all when I insert or remove a thumb drive.

Dee8go · #28 03-19-2009, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

I finished the install. Here are the pics:

Nice work, Chad. You're quite a craftsman, and no you've inspired me. I need to clean up the wiring (and the rest of the interior) of the Dee8gonator. I think I'll follow your example with the USB plug.

Chad300tdt · #29 07-01-2009, 12:06 PM

I finished installing the bluetooth adapter so Raquel can use the cell phone hands-free. The laws in PA are getting more strict about using a cellphone while driving.

I also installed an 8" subwoofer and amp. The system sounds amazing with no buzzes since I secured the vacuum reservoir better.

Here's the microphone for the bluetooth hands-free setup:

Here's the amp mounted on the back trunk wall. I used self-tapping sheet metal screws used for metal wall studs. They're about 1/2" long. The back wall has a very small amount of air space before the fuel tank, so I wanted to use something short to be sure to avoid piercing the tank.

Here's the subwoofer installation:

I removed the first aid kit box and saw that the subwoofer touched the fuel tank so I needed to make a riser to give the clearance needed. I made the riser with MDF and covered it with marine grade vinyl. I used 1-1/2" long brass tubes as spacers to hold the lid from the first aid kit up to allow the sub to breath. There is a rubber faucet washer above and below the lid to absorb the bass vibrations and the bolt is screwed into a captive nut under the riser. I needed to drill two holes in the rear deck so the riser would have 4 screws holding it in place since the first aid kit is only held in with the back edge of the box and two screws at the front edge.

I may still go back and paint the bolt heads and washers so they match the cover, but it's not too bad as is.

toomany MBZ · #30 07-01-2009, 12:13 PM

^^Nice work!