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  #1  
Old 11-20-1999, 11:05 PM
A. Rosich's Avatar
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Frustrated with the size and quality of the speakers installed by Mercedes-Benz on its W124 cars, I have tried two experiments with two station-wagons.

With my first W124 wagon, an 1988 300TE I replaced the factory speakers with a pair of Infinity Kappa CS-5 separates. I had to open a 5 1/4" hole on each front door to accomodate the woofers. The tweeters replaced the 3 1/2" factory speakers on the dash. Replaced the back 3 1/2" on the armrest with a Kappa Two-Way speaker. Added a JBL amplifer to the system, and it worked fine for the seven years I owned the car.

Then, when I bought my current 1995 E320 I really hit the jackpot with a set-up I would recommed to anyone: I had installed a Three-Way Boston Accoustics 6.5-3 on the front, cutting again a 5 1/4" hole on each front door to accomodate the woofers and then installing both, the midrange and the tweeter, on the standard opening on top of the dash under the grill (they fit perfectly). At the back I added on the armrest a pair of Boston Accoustics 6.4 Two-Ways that match perfectly the set-up at the front. Trow in a four-way Alpine V12 amplifer and everything is done!

In case of the sedans, you don't even have to open the holes on the doors. This system sounds superb!!!!! (although for some listeners it may sound that it needs a little more punch on the bass side, mostly for trance and techno followers). That can be easily corrected with a subwoofer installed on the back.

[This message has been edited by A. Rosich (edited 11-25-1999).]
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  #2  
Old 11-21-1999, 07:22 AM
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I cut woofers into the front doors of my '88 too...sounds like you took it one step further as I've yet to add an amp. However, you might want to know there's an SAS Bazooka Bass Tube that fits perfectly between the third seat and the rear seat. Two 6 1/2" woofers in a long skinny ported tube (powered by a 120 Fosgate Punch). Works dramatically better than the single self-powered 8" I used to have mounted in the rearmost passenger side corner. It's probably the best part of my system!

Enjoy your system!


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Best regards, Michael
'92 500E
'88 300TE
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  #3  
Old 11-22-1999, 12:34 PM
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Thank you very much for the advise on the subwoofers. With the '88 300TE I tried two different subwoofers: one 8" Alpine with its own box and amplifer. Sounded O.K. but not great. Then I had it replaced with a 10" Boston Accoustics that sounded much better, but still did not achieved the effect I wanted. With the '95 E320T I have been deciding what to do. I would certaintly try the Bazooka. Thanks again.

[This message has been edited by A. Rosich (edited 11-25-1999).]
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  #4  
Old 10-18-2001, 12:15 PM
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I placed the an Alpine 4-channel amp (for bi-amping the front ADS co-axials) as well as the ADS cross-overs under the rear seats (easy access when you flip them up.

The 10-inch Infinity subwoofer is in it own box, but I'm considering building an enclosure to fit on the tailgate.

Let me know if the Infinity 4" fit well into the rear doors.

Muskie- please take pictures if you go the route of having the spare-tire well duplicated on the first-aid kit side.

Heck, ask them how much to do two of them. I'd be very interested.

Thanks,
:-) neil
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2001, 12:21 PM
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Forgot to post the pictures of how everything came out.

Enjoy,
:-) neil



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  #6  
Old 06-01-2002, 02:53 AM
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amplification

2 coax speakers at the dash, 2 6in. sub at the front doors, 2coax speakers at the rear plus 2 sub at the back.

Since ideally they should all be amplified, how would you do that? Can the aftermarket stereo like alpine has enough amp pre-out hookups to power all the speakers mentioned above . What kind of amp is ideal? and how many?.

Appreciate any input with regards to amplication and its hookup. I already have Rainbow soundline 4" for the dash and rear door. The front doors will retain its original 6in sub (is the stock sub self-powered/amplified for e320T, if so where can I find its amp?).

For the rear I am leaning towards Michaels recommended bazookas so I won't make any holes inside and instead place these bazookas in between the rear/third seat. I plan to buy alpine as head (need recommendation as to model that would accomodate all the rca's) And I will buy all the needed amplifiers to power these speakers (what kind 2,4,6 way amp?).

Thanks in advance for any input.
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2002, 10:07 AM
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the stock 6" subs are 2 ohm speakers at least mine are.

I took out the sub capacitors ont hem, and put a crossover on them, with some tweeters I put in the dash location along with the original dash speakers, and they now put out voice, from the doors. This has to me, made the car sound better, because all the voice is no longer coming from the rear speakers only.

For radio's, most new radios will have front, rear and sub pre outs, if they are higher end models, and some come with built in eq for certain frequncies, it depends on the brand and model of radio.

If the radio you have has only one preout, you might want to look into an eq, to run, so you have front, rear, and sub outputs on the eq to go to the amp or amps.

A Good 4 channel Iw ould think should be able to handle the speakers in the car, if it is stable at 2 ohms or 1 ohm, in either stereo or mono, preferably stereo I would think for the interior speakers.

If you are adding a subwoofer for some added kick, you can have a custom dual 8" subwoofer housing made to fit the first aid box, which should add bass without being really boomy.

My setup, has the following done...

Factory interior speakers all around. Tweeters added to the dash location glued to the bottom of the dash speaker grill. Factory dash speakers are still there and hooked up. extra tweeters are hooked up to a crossover, and door subs were modified to hook up to the crossover too, to make them midrange. Rear speakers havent been modified at all, and dash speakers were not modified either. They are wired up to the radio's built in amp, the door subs, front dash speakers, and tweeters are ont he front channel. the rear speakers are on the rear channel. I then have a 10" sub, ported throught he first aid kit, with a 450w (at 14.4 volts, but I'm not running a capacitor to bring it up to 14.4v, so its running at 12v give or take a little.) I estimate that the 450 watts, at 12 volts, is lets say 200-250, maybe a little more, maybe a little less.

My subwoofer is an 8 ohm sybwoofer, that I bought several years ago. It hits nice.

I ahve the bass ont he radio turned down -2 levels from the middle, and the treble is set to +1 to +3 depending ont he music I am listening too. The sub is set to around 80-120 frequency, and amp is set to just over half gain. It hits nicely, provides the vibration formt he bass, and doesn't to me, sound too boomy at all. When I put in boomy music with good bass, liek some hip hop etc, it can thump the bass nicely but still not be too boomy to me. With rock, the bass sounds good, not too much, but maybe just a little less than I would like, but I can usually turnt he radio's bass level up from -2 to -1, then it sounds better on some songs.

The car is plenty loud liek this. I will be adding a 4 channel 400w amp to power the interior speakers, and changing the headunit for a pioneer 840, because I am gettign the radio form my friend, who I traded some computer parts with for the radio and amp.

Later I will upgrade the speakers for sure, but for now the factory ones, sound good enough.

I had originally planned on building a computer into my car, but decided I didn't need to have one. The new radio, will play mp3's off a cdr. with 150 + songs on a disc, who needs a cd changer?

My factory speakers have different capacitors on them depending on the purpose of the speaker. the only ones I have modified were the door subs, so they would be a midbass, by adding a cross over instead of capping ti as a midbass. The crossover has made them sound better.

Good luck on your upgrade. let us know when you are done.

Alon
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  #8  
Old 02-24-2003, 01:38 PM
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How much cubic airspace in your front doors?

Neil- nice install on the front doors- also great use of space under the seat.
Questions any over heating problems? Was a vent installed?
Also what were any problems encountered along the way?

Did Scott at La Jolla do the install?- very clean.

Also many thanks for that apprasier reference- saved my butt.

I also wanted to know if your doors rattle at high volume- or Hiss- and was there an issue with the power window motor positioning?

How's it sound now?
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2003, 01:50 PM
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No problems with heat, even with no vent and seats closed.

All the work was done by myself.

No rattles in the door even at the loudest non-distorting volume, however, we did add extra dampening material to the door under general principle.

No hissing, and no intereference with the windows lifters.

The sound is co-herant and beautiful. Not much low-end bass, but that's what the sub is for.

Glad Tom Bungay could help you out.

Take care,
:-) neil
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  #10  
Old 04-28-2003, 08:52 PM
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speakers upgrade

I just looked at your pictures, and wonder, whether you replaced the head unit, or kept the Becker?
Very clever set up, clean, but a bit pricey.
Maciek
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  #11  
Old 04-30-2003, 10:50 AM
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Neil, the door panels are beautiful !

Did you do them yourself? That isn't the Jehnert is it?
Did you use Dynamat or something similar to deaden the cabin and doors? I know the W124 is pretty solid, but the skins on the doors leave a bit to desire.

I am preparing to gut my 500E and I am trying to get some
ideas for speaker placement.
To use the doors or not, to install a custom door panel or just put small woofs in the factory location....

So many issues to think about. I really don't want to go with a trunk full 'o subs but there is no good place to mount a sub in the cabin. The 500E poses a few challenges for amps as well.

Does one have to remove the spare tire to get good sound?

I am going to do alot of reading on this and other sites, meet with an installer and see what they have done with a W124 and try to put together a plan. My goal is simple, clean sound.
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