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#1
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I am trying to remove the plastic bins for the med kit and the storage bin on my 126 hat shelf. i heard there was a screw to remove but so far i see nothing. Can someone tell me exactly how to remove them i realy wna be able to port my subs into my cabin. thanks
js |
#2
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Do you need to? I thought it would be easy to remove my 124 hat shelf... after 2hrs of cursing under the blazing sun and not being able to remove the headrests.. (the fuel tank is in the way!!) I gave up and cut the shelf in situ... not easy, but probably easier than removing it...
Bri |
#3
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I dont want to remove the Whole shelf
just the plastic bins which are acsessable from the trunk. So when removed when i open the lid for the med case it woudl lead me directly to the trunk. my plan is to port the subs fromt he trunk into the area below the med kits. i have a little dc moter with a gear setup to push the lids open when my amp is on. |
#4
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I have a 85 500SEL that I removed only one bin to port a Bazooka 10" 100W. What a difference. The easiest way to remove the bins is to remove the back seat and lift up the tray. This is easier than it sounds ( only 4-5 bolts). 2 at the front outside ends of the seat bottom and 2-3 for the seatback. The only problem I have is noise from gas in the gas tank sloshing around. I am very interested in how you hooked up the motor/gears to lift the hatch covers. I have wanted to do this since I installed the sub. I now have the hatch cover proped up with a stick. Not very pretty but gets the job done.
------------------ Gary 85 500SEL |
#5
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Gary, I have the same Benz as you and will be installing the same Bazooka tube in my trunk. Two questions. How much of a difference did it make, and where specifically in the trunk did you install the tube ?? Thanks, Fred.
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#6
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Hi Fred,
I mounted the tube horizontally to the panel that covers the gas tank so that it would be out of the way. 2 WARNINGS 1 The mounting screws need to be cut or ground off or they could puncture the tank. REMOVE the panel before installing the straps. 2 the sub wants to settle in the straps lower than you would think. Mine dropped about 2 inches more than I wanted. I wired the power directly from the battery with 16 gauge lampcord. Making a loop for the switch behind the glovebox and pushed the switch between the center console and glovebox trim. It is easy to get to and is does not look out of place there. The sound difference is amazing. I have decided not to upgrade the stock speakers because the sub fills in the base and low midrange so well. I do turn back the low pass filter pot on the sub a little to keep things from getting muddy. One final install note the instructions state that the sub should be pointed about 4" from a surface for loading. I do not know how much effect this has but my install does accomplish this. I have the speaker on top and port on the bottom. I also have a Sony 40Wx4 cassette deck in the dash and a CD changer in the trunk center mounted under the rear deck. I routed the speaker and CD wires down the drivers side to avoid any noise interference from the sub's power wires. I am very happy with every thing but the stick holding up the hatch cover. Good luck with your install and I hope that you are as happy as I am. ------------------ Gary 85 500SEL |
#7
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Great info, but I would suggest using something a bit more meaty than 16ga Lampcord... and you DO have a fuse in there, dont you?? We dont like deathtraps around here ya know!
Bri ------------------ Brian Drought 1991 300CE http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~drought/ ICQ: 2180069 |
#8
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Yeah lampcord is dangerous... Can take fire...
------------------ ------------------------------------- WEB Site : http://www.adamou.dpn.ch A.S.C. 1999 ------------------------------------- |
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