I recommend this replacement radio for xmas: Clarion CZ501
 

I paid $118 including shipping. Best head unit I have owned in years. For the price. BT + Ipod + USB + cdmp3 +hipass (60/90/120 + sloper) crossover for builtin 19x4 rms amp + lopass (60/90/120 + sloper) crossover for sub out.

This replaced a decent but old Alpine deck in my car. First time I turned the clarion on I was very impressed with the immediate improved sound stage and warmth. Out of the box it was a 10x improvement. With crossovers enabled its that much better....

For the price this is a great stocking stuffer.

Do you find the display too bright at nightime?

-J

Not really. LCD letters are pretty thin. It does ahve a dimmer line but I dont have that hooked up (lazy).

what speakers and/or subwoofer are you running this with? I still have the stock Becker with stock speakers and it's absolutely unacceptable. Zero bass and overall sounds like turd.

The '79 240D I just bought has a JVC unit in it that accepts a USB/IPOD - pretty nice feature, I've already dumped a bunch of songs on my flash drive I carry back and forth to work.

But . . . what's up with no rear speakers in the '79??? :(

One thing I really dislike about Clarions (I have a lower model in the CZ series, not overly impressed with it) is their wiring out the back. Instead of using a more modular design by having jacks rather than plugs, they have a huge mess of wires sticking out the back, which just gets messy once you wire up the speakers, sub, etc. It was problematic in my w126, IIRC since there wasn't much room to fit the huge mess of wires. I usually stick with Pioneer, I've found their products superior in sound quality (I am an audiophile) and interface.

Some cheapo kenwoods in the front I found in the junkyard. Stockers in the rear. 12" DVC bazooka tube and 200watt amp. These will all be replaced with quality rainbows or the like soon enough.

There was a pioneer that was $150 I was looking at but had never heard their auto products before. I had no problems with the wiring.

I had nothing but headaches with Clarion and would never use another. Fortunately Crutchfield felt my pain, replaced it (after three earlier replacements,) with another brand. It has worked totally to my satisfaction. Got an Alpine.

I run an older (2005) Alpine CDA-9835 which has limitless adjustments and AMAZING sound. People still use it for competition because it is said that it was Alpine's last "real" powered system. They still get $200 or so used! Great units and it has an AUX input that connects to the rear, although it is an add-on function.

Here is what I'm thinking about using in the DT... Since it has that nice removable floor in the bed...

BOSS BASS1500 Low Profile Amplified 10" Subwoofer 265-360

http://d2oiekhouywd6z.cloudfront.net.../265-360_s.jpg

Should give the system a great bottom end and still be completely out of site. They have an 8 inch version also, I believe they could be mounted under the seats as well...

What problems did you have?

One radio wouldn't pick up AM. I live in the country away from good signals. Two others worked for about 2 weeks, then quit, don't recall the specifics on those failures. Tried to reach Clarion and found they refer you to 'local' dealers for factory repairs. No such thing as factory warranty service and you can't even get past their website to talk to anybody. They lost a potential customer for life.

It looks kind of nice...

http://www.carmediaworld.de/userdata...oradio_300.jpg

...but what on earth is that funny long slot just above the display for?

Is it to put in some form of optical media that spins round?

^Like an 8-Track?

I like this new blaupunkt radio for 129

Blaupunkt Atlanta 110 - Midwest Electronics

yuck. Im a purist, couldnt stand the look of any aftermarket headunit in any car, let along a classic w123. Sorry.

I have Becker refurbish my stereo and add the ipod input. Perfect.

I do like that under seat sub though. That with (possibly) an amp and some good speakers (what is currently available that fits up front?) would be nice!

i gotta agree on that one. i have an older Alpine something-or-other in my car now and it drives me crazy. i hate the way it looks, it does not display, sounds like garbage. its only redeeming quality is that it does play music while i am driving.
if you guys are ripping out your Beckers and want them to go to a good home, send them my way! i'd like to find the correct Becker for my car, in working order, and I would certainly take a 4 band Becker out of a Euro model....

Mine doesn't look too bad...

http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/q...DSC_0006-2.jpg

Sorry, but "sore thumb" comes to mind. Not trying to be a jerk, just not my taste in these cars.

have you folks had any issues with swapping out the stock sound system? I hear once you start changing the stereo around you can run into all kinds of problems with the cars electrical systems. at this point I was torn between retrofitting something into the car or sending the stock unit to Becker in NJ for "updating"

Depends what you mean...the wiring is 30 years old and so are the speakers. The speakers themselves have an odd impedence rating for some reason so that can cause issues with new head units. The best option is to get a new head unit, run brand new wires to brand new speakers. Eliminate the fader switch too, that pretty much takes care of the variables. I found it better to replace my entire back deck too since it was so sun damaged, dusty, and possibly moldy. New one I custom made with 6x9" speaker holes, sounds wonderful and looks good too. Obviously each of these steps compromises "originality" for functionality so really that is your choice. I'd say the biggest cause of issues is the fader and speaker wiring getting old.

@tbomachines - I tend to agree with you about running new wires. The stock ones dont look like they could handle much power and who knows if they're a good quality copper ... and I like the idea of using the fader switch as a volume control for a sub, AND putting 6x9's in the rear deck. I've swapped my existing rear deck for the blue one from the donor car, it's in pretty good shape. I'd like to figure out a way to use stock grilles so as not to advertize that I've got a custom stereo or expensive speakers sticking out of the deck. I've heard good things about Kenwoods before and Id love to be able to do handsfree calling inside the car. Anyway thats a project for down the road, I've got to get the vacuume system and trans shifting straight first, then do a bunch of front end work, finish colorbonding and putting together the interior..then I will move on to customizing the rest.

When I bought my '83 300D, the guy handling the sale had thrown a junkyard aftermarket radio in the dash, without hooking it up. He had also thrown some Infinity speakers in the dash (best speakers for the size, IMHO). Knowing I was driving the car from CA to FL, I went by a radio shop and bought a Sony XPlode with a connector in the faceplate, and Blauplunkt speakers for the rear deck. It works great!!! However, I had to bring it back the next day because, against my written instructions, they used the same setup wiring (too lazy to run new wires) and the fader switch was ready to melt!!!! The ran the new wires as specified, but I never have been able to get decent sound out of back deck speakers, no matter how I set the fader. So, I took some box speakers that I got from JC Whitney, then put a used Kenwood 2-channel amp under the back seat, and dropped the boxes on the floor of the back seat. Since I almost never have anyone sitting in the back, it's not an issue for me. I finally got the sound I needed for the long drives I have a tendency to take. The mechanic I have locally (who has a collection of classic cars). . . he was ecstatic with the Sony . . . it's simplicity. I will be looking for replacements soon for the infinity speakers in the dash, as the moisture and time is finally getting to them (but would recommend them to anyone).

I am liking the concept of pulling the back deck (which needs the carpet replaced, and putting in some Pioneer 5 x 9 speakers. Does the sound project to the front well enough?? All three of my older diesels never could provide good sound from the back due to the setup.

Looking for others' suggestions.

Also, in my Peterbilt, I blew up three Dial radios and finally got a JVC with my frequent fueler points. That is another radio I am very satisfied with!!!

Ive sent a deck to becker to update. I like that path because it maintains the original look of the car.

To be honest, bass issues aside, I cant complain too much about the sound in the car, especially for what it is. Ive never been THAT dissatisfied with w123 sound. Ive driven lots of much newer cars that had glaring issues with the sound stage that I cant say Ive had to deal with in 123 cars.

The biggest issues are sustained draw of power. While the wiring, fuses, etc. MAY handle it, for a HU, the alternator, at 55A is a pretty big bottleneck. These alternators show pretty good drop in voltage with the blower, stock radio and headlights on.

So anyone trying to run 1000W amps and move lots of air (bass) at any appreciable volume needs to upgrade at least some of the electrical system.

Wait, I hope you didnt rewire THROUGH the stock fader... That would give no benefit.

Ive found that in OE setup, the rear speakers put out fine sound and while bass is always lacking, they push their part.

Something else seems to me to be wrong...

Thanks for the tips, folks.

I've been debating the matter of upgrading the stereo for a few weeks now.

Part of me wants to retain the stock radio, but the more practical side wants to upgrade the entire system (amp, flat sub beneath the seat, plus mount 4 speakers around the cabin).

Having upgraded several stereos to get iPod functionality in the past, I've came to realize that the biggest issue with aftermarket decks is the lack of a viewing screen to better help scroll through the music. Short of a double DIN touchscreen unit, there doesn't appear any way to get more than 2 lines of text to display on the screen at any time. Given that the sheer volume of songs on my iPod, navigating to the right one is a matter of patience and unsafe driving.

Does anyone have a bead on a single DIN unit that displays 4 or more lines of text? I'm not interested in using the AUX jack, so that's not an option.

I replaced the 4" dash speakers with the same size Pioneer's. The rear deck also had 4" speakers and I replaced them with 6" Pioneers. Didn't rewire and went through the fader. The sound noticeably improved from stock but whether it was the new Alpine head unit or the speakers I can't say. I know I'm not as demanding as a dyed in the wool audiophile but I do appreciate good sound, and I think I have it using the stock wiring.

Initially, they did wire through the stock fader. I had instructed them to bypass the fader, as the headunit had a fader control built in, and the fader switch was not rated for the amperage that the new radios put out . . . which would result in melting the fader switch, possibly starting a fire. But . . .what do I know . . . am just a dumb truck driver, and a woman to boot. So the tech who installed the radio that I had selected, ignored the written instructions, used the existing wiring setup (through the fader switch) and almost melted the switch/caused a fire. The next day, I drove across LA, back to the same shop, with the invoice that had my directions, and the fight started!!! They wanted to charge me for running the wires the way I had directed (it was a one-wire system, and needed to be replaced with heavier gauge speaker wire to the back, bypassing the fader switch). I refused to pay for that, de novo. I finally agreed to pay the difference in price for the wiring job, if they had done it at the same time as the radio installation (I think about $15 more). They had to tear up everything all over again, remove the seats and make under the carpet available, pull the headunit out, disconnect the back speaker wires, etc., etc.) The same tech was assigned the job, and was clearly unhappy, but was surprised to feel that the fader switch was sooooo hot and ready to melt, that he acquiesced and did the job, despite the little compensation he would get. But it seems, no matter what setup, or which car (190D, 240D, or the 300D), the sound is absorbed by the back windshield, and doesn't travel well to the front, which is why I later added the amp and box speakers behind me. It was the same amp and box speakers I had set up in the 190D when I encountered the same problem.

Lol, what a situation.

I still feel that perhaps you have an issue, because while the audio systems will always be designed to set the sound stage in front of you, there should be sound pressure from behind, notable by turning fade to rear.

Under normal conditions you should hear it coming from the front, but if you're getting no appreciable sound from the rear, even when faded, there is another problem.

Mine is fantastic in that regard. I don't have a picture of it with the menu up, but I can snap one on my break. It has a little LCD screen. The iPod connects to the back of it, and I just ran a wire into the glovebox so the iPod just sits in there away from sight (very easy to connect and disconnect) and you control it via the knob, through a scroll menu similar to the iPod's. Very easy and I personally think it looks nice. Mine is an Alpine iDA-X100 from 2008 so there are newer models since, but I'm sure they're similar.
http://compressionignition.files.wor...ereo.jpg?w=450
http://compressionignition.files.wor...ereo.jpg?w=450

gorgeous! LOVE the boost gauge, whats that next to it? you have a manual boost control?

If one stays modest, and I mean, with a small amp (I believe mine is no bigger than 300W), you won't be stressing the alternator/charging system. I ran the "aux out" plug from the HU, to the amp under the back seat, then the wires from the amp to the two low power box speakers on the floor. I get excellent sound. The main hot wire is a very thick red wire, direct from the battery, with an inline fuse, to under the back seat, and hooks up directly to the amp. Any radio shop can sell you the hot wire to power the amp, with the fuse built in, if you're going to install it yourself, like I did. Our charging systems absolutely won't handle a 1,000W amp or power convertor . . . that's for sure!!! LOL

No boost control ... just got the gauge when I was playing with the overboost protection plumbing and decided I'd install it permanently. Next to it is actually just the 9V charger that was originally in the ashtray, with a black rubber washer around the rim so that it fits snugly in the wood. The panel is just plywood with zebrawood veneer glued to it ... I was really surprised it came out looking as nice as it did!:)

where did you get the zebrawood veneer? awesome job duder!

I'm pretty sure I got that piece on eBay from a seller who was selling guitar veneers, but I have since found really nice veneer sheets at Woodcraft. If you don't have one near you, I think you can order it online: Buy Zebrawood Veneer 3 sq ft pack at Woodcraft ... I've been meaning to use some to make a cupholder, but never seem to get around to it. For finish I use Epifanes Clear Marine Varnish and it's held up very well so far.

is that what all the wood trim is made from? Zebrawood? There is a woodcraft shop near me. Do they keep it in stock, or does it have to be ordered?

What stain?

Where did you get the varnish, and was it in a can, or spray can?

They had a package in stock at the store near me. I think it's zebrawood veneer in all the 123s and earlier 124s ... later 124s use burl I believe. Woodcraft also carries various thicker cuts of zebra in addition to the veneers.
Edit: to answer other two questions. Stain is a combo of four (I worked forever to get it right): 1) General Finishes Georgian Cherry gel stain. 2) Minwax Red Mahogony. 3) Minwax Sedona Red. 4) Zar UltraMax Cayenne Pepper. I refinished the factory pieces at the same time, so it was a little easier to get a match between all the pieces. Once the stain is dry you can rub mineral spirits on it to "preview" how it will look after finishing it. The varnish comes in a can, and I sprayed it on with an HVLP gun ... think I did 8 or 9 coats, lots of drying time between. :eek: Worth the effort though.:o

HA! you should be SELLING that blend pal...looks SPOT on to me!

Yeh, my stock speakers came to life with the new head unit. With a 10" sub and a crossover I can get by but I have ZERO mids. I will upgrade the speakers down the road and run new wires when I do.

Not being much of a minwax fan, I have to ask why you used it, since it's water based, and the varnish is oil based, and would be much harder to match. Do you know of any oil based stains that are supposed to work? Did you work off of a DIY sheet? Was that here?

I did get the idea from a DIY sheet here (not sure if it's still here, I'll search later), although I ended up basically just using trial and error (and for the actual varnish part I followed Epifanes' instructions). I just picked the stains based on the colors I wanted. Actually the first time I did this, I used Magnalac precatalyzed lacquer, laid in on way too thick, and it crazed once the wintertime came (hard lesson, hours of work down the drain). I stripped it all off then had to restain it, which was different this time because the veneer was a little thinner, I guess, having been sanded again. That's when I added the gel stain to the mix, because the MinWaxs were coming out too light and the gel "stuck" a little better to the wood. And I topped it off with the Zar because it didn't have quite the red hue I wanted. To be honest, I have zero woodworking experience so I pretty much just guessed and kept improvising if it didn't come out the way I wanted. :eek: I did not have to match it with existing wood though, since I was refinishing all of it at once, so I think that made it a lot easier. I did have to use a little bit different balance of stains on the custom piece because the veneer took the stain a bit differently than the factory bits.
(sorry to hijack thread ... :o)

Well, newbie, or not . . . it looks fantastic, and thank you for sharing your experience.

What did you mean the lacquer "crazed"?

I vaguely remember reading another member's experience with it. However, I think he used a spray urethane/high gloss . . . don't remember the stain color but he seemed to have the info on that too. When I get there, I'll ask Hunter to look it up for me, if I don't find it on my own.

Crazed just means thin cracks going in all directions.:( I think i was even warned that there was a strict limit to the build depth for that lacquer, but alas I didn't believe them.
Actually found this not-very-professional writeup I did some time ago (on now-defunct blog I just use for storage), think it's still accessible: Automotive wood restoration « The sad mechanic exercise