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-   -   subwoofer in trunk - vent to cabin via first aid hole (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/car-audio-multimedia/387381-subwoofer-trunk-vent-cabin-via-first-aid-hole.html)

ironandsteel 07-17-2017 09:03 PM

subwoofer in trunk - vent to cabin via first aid hole
 
I have an '83 240D and an '85 300D. I want to get some bass happening in these cars with minimal cash outlay.

I happen to have 2 subwoofer amps. I also have several subwoofers that were part of home stereo surround sound systems. Some are just speakers and some are powered, but the amps on these are all blown, I believe. (I collect junk)

So I'm thinking I should be able to wire up a sub amp to one of these cabinets and just set in the trunk. Then, remove the emergency kit (and eventually put a screen over the hole). My pioneer head units have line level sub outs.

Would this hole in the rear deck let enough bass get into the cabin? I don't listen to hiphop- so I don't need insane bass- just normal music at reasonable levels.

Dubyagee 07-17-2017 09:08 PM

What size sub.

ironandsteel 07-17-2017 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dubyagee (Post 3729901)
What size sub.

I have several to choose from. I have a huge home stereo sub cabinet- 12" or maybe 15" driver in a big box. I have a couple that have 12 or maybe 10" drivers in boxes about 14" cubed. I have other subs from surround sound systems that have smaller drivers- like 8"- in carefully tuned cabinets.

The real question is- if a sub is in the trunk, will let enough air movement into the cabin?

lorainfurniture 07-17-2017 09:39 PM

Venting is important, especially in Mercedes. The fuel tank really absorbs most of the bass. In my w124, I removed the rear parcel shelf and removed a lot of the cardboard lining. I don't remember exactly, this was 10 years ago. I think I carefully used a hole saw, enough to score it for easy removal. I may have even drilled through the metal a bit.

Drilling some holes through the first aid compartment is basically the same thing.

Not to poo poo your idea, but if you want any bass to make it to the front cabin you should get a 12" sub for a car (4 ohms) home stuff is usually 8 ohms. You will need at least 300 watts rms to get any meaningful sound.

I had a 1000 watt setup, it basically made all my mirrors useless.

tbomachines 07-17-2017 09:46 PM

In my w126 I made a custom back deck with 6x9s and a hole for vent to my 12 inch sub in back. It really helped (sounded great too). At least on the 126 the back deck was flat and could be made with plywood

ironandsteel 07-17-2017 11:44 PM

Maybe I'll work out a way to top mount a 10 or 12 driver into the hole for the first aid kit. Since there is not much room underneath, it would have to extend vertically a couple inches. I could make an adaptor plate out of wood. I'll check out some of my drivers to see if any would fit. The entire trunk would be a huge bass cabinet and this should be fine except for rattles.

party 07-18-2017 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironandsteel (Post 3729960)
The entire trunk would be a huge bass cabinet and this should be fine except for rattles.

This is called infinite baffle. Usually this leads to less rattles than a sub in an enclosure firing away in the boot.

The drivers may not be ideally suited for infinite baffle, but you can make them work so long as you have a subsonic filter on the amp. This sort of alignment is extremely efficient on the lowest frequencies, so it's easy for the subs to bottom out on little power. It's recommended to use drivers with lots of throw.


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