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  #31  
Old 10-02-2002, 05:48 PM
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hey gxsr i saw that too but to be honest, i'm not going to fork over that mush money for door speakers that are just going to rattle and muffle out on my ass or my passenger's
hehehehehe
besides my cousin (who does competition soundsystems for Brabus sanctioned sponsor cars) is going to do my full custom 300+ watt system 4 in cab and 12's in trunk/fully ported with custom faux/stock inserts for 1,200.00
so why bother with door...
hehehe
when the major part of the system is going to rattle the bolts off my car

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1984 300CD Turbo Diesel (soon to be "powered by VEGGIE") - dolphin silver

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(my other girls)
1992 300CE 24V 3.0L (w124) (R.I.P. "she was killed 7/12/03 by some ricer kids speeding in a honda accord")
1990 Acura Integra RS (w/94' engine)
1966 Cadillac Sedan de Ville (Hardtop)
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  #32  
Old 10-02-2002, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mushedroom
so why bother with door...
Because you're going to have a frequency gap between your 4s and 12s. A 4" midrange driver will only go so low, and a 12" sub will only go so high. The 6.5" midbass in the door is exactly what you need to bridge that gap. Lower frequencies are nondirectional, so it's irrelevant that they're firing into the seats.
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  #33  
Old 10-02-2002, 06:38 PM
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interesting....
i was told that that the mids would really not make a difference to a non-competing system.

i don't plan on winning audiophile awards...and currently in my integra that i drive on the weekends, i'm quite happy with the 6.5 in the doors and in the rear with my 10's booming...so i'm not so sure i'd even miss the mid 4's that you're speakin of...

my cousin told me that it would make a difference but not enough to warrant the cost of them...plus the only way to optimize their functionality is to alter the door and i don't want to do that....
bad enough i'm porting the through the rear deck lid
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~there is no spoon~

1984 300CD Turbo Diesel (soon to be "powered by VEGGIE") - dolphin silver

1999 e430 Sport blk/blk, my sexy ***** ;-)

(my other girls)
1992 300CE 24V 3.0L (w124) (R.I.P. "she was killed 7/12/03 by some ricer kids speeding in a honda accord")
1990 Acura Integra RS (w/94' engine)
1966 Cadillac Sedan de Ville (Hardtop)
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  #34  
Old 10-02-2002, 06:40 PM
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nevertheless
appreciate teh input daesun...

hey question...would you be interested in a GTG at the Lodge that Phil (from parts shop here in the forum) works at?

i noticed you're local west side...

the GTG would be like in garden grove....
__________________
~there is no spoon~

1984 300CD Turbo Diesel (soon to be "powered by VEGGIE") - dolphin silver

1999 e430 Sport blk/blk, my sexy ***** ;-)

(my other girls)
1992 300CE 24V 3.0L (w124) (R.I.P. "she was killed 7/12/03 by some ricer kids speeding in a honda accord")
1990 Acura Integra RS (w/94' engine)
1966 Cadillac Sedan de Ville (Hardtop)
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  #35  
Old 10-02-2002, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by gsxr
I emailed Jehnert and they quoted me about $1000 as well (the sedan panels are a bit cheaper than the coupe.) One thing I did not notice at first, but these are complete systems with tweeters included! That makes the price a little more tolerable. For the coupe, they say it includes four 6's, one 4, and one tweeter per side... not a bad deal. It looks like they use all MB Quart drivers.
That is a sweet setup. With that much midbass, you could go with a 15 in the trunk and get some fantastic low range extension without sacrificing clarity.
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  #36  
Old 10-02-2002, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mushedroom
i don't plan on winning audiophile awards...and currently in my integra that i drive on the weekends, i'm quite happy with the 6.5 in the doors and in the rear with my 10's booming...so i'm not so sure i'd even miss the mid 4's that you're speakin of...
The 4s are in the dash, and you definitely don't want to leave those out. It's the 6.5s that you want in order to bridge the gap between the 4s and the 12s. You don't even need a very expensive driver--even the factory speakers will do if you really don't want to spend the money. What you would have to do is high and low pass the 6.5" so it only plays midbass. It will make a difference.

My car is not setup for competition either, nor would it do very well. The dash mounted mids fire into the windshield and the resultant reflections mess up your stage from the get go.
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  #37  
Old 10-02-2002, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mushedroom
nevertheless
appreciate teh input daesun...

hey question...would you be interested in a GTG at the Lodge that Phil (from parts shop here in the forum) works at?

i noticed you're local west side...

the GTG would be like in garden grove....
No problem. I'm no expert, but I enjoy these discussions, and they're always very educational.

Garden Grove it not too far from me. It really depends on my work schedule, keep me posted on where and when.
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  #38  
Old 10-02-2002, 06:58 PM
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this GTG would be more of a fun thing
night thing
karaoke thing
cheap drink thing
bbq thing
the lodge is really flexible
maybe a sunday day thing...
hmmm
i'm going to post

a thread
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~there is no spoon~

1984 300CD Turbo Diesel (soon to be "powered by VEGGIE") - dolphin silver

1999 e430 Sport blk/blk, my sexy ***** ;-)

(my other girls)
1992 300CE 24V 3.0L (w124) (R.I.P. "she was killed 7/12/03 by some ricer kids speeding in a honda accord")
1990 Acura Integra RS (w/94' engine)
1966 Cadillac Sedan de Ville (Hardtop)
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  #39  
Old 10-02-2002, 07:30 PM
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does nobody besides mush and I have the door rattling problems? I don't care how good the midbass sounds, the rattling ruins everything. How did you guys fix your doors up so they never rattle? On my car, it had gotten to the point where I could'nt even figure out what was rattling...
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  #40  
Old 10-02-2002, 07:33 PM
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yeah i forgot about that
thanks for the reminder...badinfo!!!!!
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~there is no spoon~

1984 300CD Turbo Diesel (soon to be "powered by VEGGIE") - dolphin silver

1999 e430 Sport blk/blk, my sexy ***** ;-)

(my other girls)
1992 300CE 24V 3.0L (w124) (R.I.P. "she was killed 7/12/03 by some ricer kids speeding in a honda accord")
1990 Acura Integra RS (w/94' engine)
1966 Cadillac Sedan de Ville (Hardtop)
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  #41  
Old 10-02-2002, 07:48 PM
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Well, usually you need to do it the hard way - tear it all apart, locate the source of the rattle/buzz, and fix it. Some foam gasketing may help to fill gaps between plastic panels, etc. But you should not have any rattle or buzzing. Make sure you're not overdriving the speakers, 6.5's can't take any deep bass, they need high pass crossovers to filter out the deep stuff. Set up properly they should enhance the sound, particularly with percussion stuff (IMO)...
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  #42  
Old 10-02-2002, 11:00 PM
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hrm... interesting. I think I might go ahead and set off the door "subs" as mid-bass speakers. Hopefully the bass will not be strong enought to cause the doors to rattle like crazy. Like I said, it has gotten to the point where the door panel is not vibrating, but things like the door check strap or the window regulator are vibrating inside the door. Its really quite annoying, but I have those 6.5s in the doors which are otherwise useless, so I might as well give it a try...
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  #43  
Old 10-10-2002, 03:33 PM
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I just got more info from Jehnert on the W124 sedan door panels. The two-way system is no longer available. The current setup they sell includes two 6.5's midbass drivers in the door, one 4-inch in the dash, and a soft-dome tweeter in the dash (on top of the 4). That's a three-way system with 4 speakers per side, including external crossovers, for ~$1000. I believe all the drivers are MB Quart except the tweeter. They said the Quart hard-dome (titanium?) tweet was a bit harsh when reflected off the windshield, and the soft-dome they use sounds better. They didn't specify mfr but said the soft tweet is also made in Germany, as are all the other drivers.

The raw door panels, with NO speakers included, are ~$500 pair, color-matched to my interior (I assume all their stuff is color matched, you specify when ordering.) They do not currently have a US dealer but they are looking for one. I wish someone in North America would carry their stuff, I'd rather deal with a US-based distributor than overseas stuff with currency exchange issues, etc...

Although the prices may sound kind of high, it's actually fairly reasonable for a proven, bolt-in system. Any local high-end shop would have to fabricate the panels (at exorbitant cost) and a set of equivalent Quart separate 3-ways would easily be $400+. It's awfully tempting since this is a full drop-in, with NO cutting required. Now, if I could get it a bit cheaper, I'd be sold....



Regards,

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