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#16
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im sure this is a pretty stupid question,but im going to ask anyway....could you possibly convert all the existing pulleys to accept a serpentine belt,and just convert the whole pulley system?
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#17
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That would be the best solution, of course! But so far, nobody has figured out how to swap OE parts to the older engine to make everything serpentine with an automatic tensioner, or created an aftermarket kit either. It would be easier (most likely) to have a custom pulley made for the big alternator, assuming you could find a way to mount the blasted thing - it's a LOT larger (I think) and the mounting points are very different. And, the V-belt setup requires the alternator to move for adjustment. AND, someone else pointed out that V-belts might slip, and not have enough friction to drive the higher load of the high-ouput alternator. Lots of "gotchas" with the whole concept...
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#18
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Alternator upgrade on '92 500E???
hi,
I like knowing first; what the stock alternator output is in my 500E and if its a good idea upgrading to a higher output alternator. thanks |
#19
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Hashem,
Your 500E probably has a 110 or 120A alternator. You don't need to upgrade unless you have rather large auxiliary electrical loads, such as a killer stereo system, or megawatt headlight bulbs (100-130W in all 4 spots). Besides, I'm not sure how easy it would be for you to source a cheap 143-150A unit outside the USA... and the cost new is insane. |
#20
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Re: Installed a 143A alternator in my W124 (86-95E-class) - with photos
Quote:
BTW, Don't worry about the voltage at 14.1. That is exactly where you want it and the voltage regulator seems to be working perfectly. Any higher and you'll generate excess hydrogen gas and sulfate up your lead plates in your battery. 14.1 V is exactly the right voltage for charging batteries for best life, especially since you'll have very little voltage drop between your alternator and the battery with your new cables. Also, to figure out how many ponies are robbed, lets do some math: Since Power = Volts * Amps, Power = 14.1V * 130 Amps = 1833 Watts. 1833 Watts = about 2.5 hp. Assuming about 80% effeciency for converting mechanical energy to electric energy (fairly conservative estimate), and that's 2.95 hp. Hmmm, I'm a mechanical engineer, not electrical...how do I remember this crap?
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On the plains of hesitation bleach the bones of countless millions who at the dawn of victory, sat down to wait, and waiting -- died |
#21
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143
Does anyone know if the 143 amp alternator will bolt on in a 1985 190e 2.3 without mod (other than replacing the pulley and rotating the rear housing)?
__________________
1985 190E 2.3 8v Rebuilt engine May 2002 (at 137,000 miles) Lowered with Eibach springs and Bilstein performance shocks An embarassing number of new parts Pioneer DEH-200 head Infinity Kapa Perfect 6.5" speakers in front doors 2 Sony Explod 8" subs in sealed trunk box vented through first aid kit 3 MTX amps, Callisto electronic crossover |
#22
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It should, assuming your 190E has a serpentine belt. You'll need to do electrical mods since the stock wire harness has blade connectors and the 143/150 units have post connectors. But, you'd want to increase the wire size anyway so I'm assuming you planned for that. I'd recommend 4ga cable from the alternator to the battery.
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#23
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143
It does have a serpentine belt, so I am going to give this solution a try.
This is actually the second alternator swap I'm doing on this car. I swapped out the original 65 amp alternator for a 120 amp Volvo alternator when the stock amp couldn't handle my stereo amplifiers. This required the shop (the car is in Peru) to modify the mouting bracket and install a slightly longer belt. I've never been happy with the modification, as the pulley is not perfectly true and in line with the rest of the pulleys and wheels that the belt winds around. This causes a lot of stress on the belt tensioner -- which I have had to replace twice after it snapped off the mounting bracket. I'm going to ditch the Volvo amp, replace the modified alternator bracket with a new stock bracket, and install the 143 amp alternator.
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1985 190E 2.3 8v Rebuilt engine May 2002 (at 137,000 miles) Lowered with Eibach springs and Bilstein performance shocks An embarassing number of new parts Pioneer DEH-200 head Infinity Kapa Perfect 6.5" speakers in front doors 2 Sony Explod 8" subs in sealed trunk box vented through first aid kit 3 MTX amps, Callisto electronic crossover |
#24
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Awesome! Let us know how it works out.
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#25
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Quote:
__________________
Regards Warren Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL ENTER > = (HP RPN) Not part of the in-crowd since 1952. |
#26
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Can you tell me more about the distriibution block?? Can the old one be rebuilt to work with the bigger alternator?? Or will I have to find one off another car??
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All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing. Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor '95 S320 LWB '87 300SDL '04 E500 wagon 4matic |
#27
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Quote:
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#28
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how difficult is it to change pulleys?
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#29
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Pulley changes are usually easy if you have an impact wrench, although I was not able to remove my old pulley despite extreme efforts. I bought a new pulley (~$25) for my two diesel upgrades, and I have never had trouble removing the pulleys from the 143/150A units with an impact wrench.
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#30
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Update
I just did another upgrade, this time I installed a 150A alternator into my 1993 300D (this was LONG overdue... wish I had done it sooner). For this installation, I kept the stock battery cables, battery terminals, and factory power distribution block all intact. I hadn't done this before - my previous installs used aftermarket items instead.
This method makes for an easier install (and cheaper, too). I used two 4-guage cables to simplify connection at the stock distribution block. It works perfectly. If you don't need to attach large cables to feed aftermarket stereo amplifiers, etc... I'd recommend duplicating this setup. I took extensive photos this time, and documented the creation of the custom cable. A few sample photos are shown below... the full batch of pictures are available at this URL: http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stereo/alternator/ |
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