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  #1  
Old 01-29-2003, 09:53 PM
johnp123
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300E with 650amptwo12's

JUST GOT my stuff installed today!!! it sounds great!!! , i have a sealed box in the trunk and i have a couple questions, #1 debating question anyone have 300E with subs and which way is better for the subs to face towards the license plat or the seats i have it right now @ the plate, but does it really matter? #2 i have a 0.5 fraud cap and my lights still dim when sound is up is that ok? i dont wanna break my altantor and ididn't buy this 0.5 for 100bux for no reason #3 post your damn pics !! hehe
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  #2  
Old 01-30-2003, 12:31 AM
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No pic yet (Working on it)

I have a case in my trunk too, but no Amp.. I have it facing the seat .. the sound is richer and better like that. It sounds real nice with just the radio pushing it.. its a 23.2 watts RPM/52 Peak x4 Sony CDX-CA720X. The two speakers are MTX 12in.. in a box that fits WELL int the trunk with lots of room to spare. God willing I get a Digital Camera, I will post pics then!!

Til then enjoy the ride!!
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2003, 12:36 AM
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The reason your lights dim when you really power up is that your accessories demand more current than your stock alternator is designed to provide. Upgrade your alternator and keep bumping.
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Old 01-30-2003, 11:23 AM
johnp123
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but i have a 0.5 capacitatory i was told that it would not break my altenator and would not dim / hurt anything. i heard that if the subs are facing the licenese plate the wav's bounc off the back of the trunk towards the cabin? is this false b/c of the fuel tank being right there with the firewall/back seats?
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2003, 04:07 PM
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jonhp123 -

Where you place your sub won't matter too much - bass waves are basically omnidirectional - they don't bounce/reflect in the same manner as higher frequencies which are directional. I'd place/face the sub wherever it is most convenient.

Your capacitor can help handle slight surges (i.e. thumping bass lines) but it cannot compensate for a higher overall power draw - you'll need a bigger alternator - as posted previously. A capacitor is handy when your system cannot get the power it needs fast enough, it cannot help you if overall you do not have ENOUGH power. Generally, you'd need 0.5 farads for every 500W of stereo power output, but that's a general rule. I'm starting to get outta my league here, maybe Scott can help you...good luck!
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  #6  
Old 01-30-2003, 04:32 PM
johnp123
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well the people i got my stuff done no names "cough best buy" said that the genral rule is 1.0 every 1000watts. but ok.. so are u saying that my altenator is going to die on me if i crouse around for 2 years with sound up , not toooooo high but enough so every big bass action it dims out and then back right up again.? i just dont wanan spend 200 bux on a new altenator also do you guys know wut subsonic boost = on / off how many hurts is good? and all this **** on the side of my amp i dont know wut it means but i guess i will ask around and hopefully one of my friends in real life or maybe you guys here can help me so i can get my settings right b/c it seems that every time i play a song the bass is just hitting TO hard. and i dont wanna do to much damge.
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  #7  
Old 01-30-2003, 05:06 PM
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It sounds as if you have the gain/sensitivity adjusted too high on your amp. I have often seen this adjustment used as a volume control. Turn that adjustment down not totally of but lower it. What head unit are you using? What amp? Are you using the low level input to your amp (RCA cables) or are you using high level inputs to your amp (Speaker wires). The gas tank behind the rear seat will definitely decrease the amount of base that penetrates into the passenger area but you can port your rear package tray/shelf.
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Old 01-30-2003, 05:23 PM
johnp123
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ok - its a eclipse like 3320 or something 650w amp with two 12's pioneers 450w each.... i have 0.5 fraud cap... still dimming but.. ok this is the settings i have ill try my best to explain them right now......First #1 setting is between, MONO ,STERO , and L+R , idunno wut its suppose to be on but its on Stero. #2 setting is GAIN..... there are 3 adjustments .. its like a flat head screw and its pointing to 2v right now, I BELIEVE..... but there is also a 1v and 8v. the #3 setting is LOW-PASS it is set @ ON/OFF its on. then it has near it a random setting i'm guess refering to the LOW-PASS saying 80hz,50hz,200hz... the line where you put your flathead is horizontal... not even lining up to anyo of them .. if it was in a triangle shape the 80hz is on top and the bottom left is 50hz and the 200hz is bottom right. its in the middle horriztaly... one other thing is SUBSONIC BOOST or something its set to 12b and there is also an 24B.. but yah.. thats my settings is that ok? idunno wut any of this stuff means anyone wanna explain it to me? thx!
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  #9  
Old 01-30-2003, 05:44 PM
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Everything seems to be properly set. But how many channels are on your amp? Who makes the amp, what model? I want to check out their website for more info on that model. In the mean time you can bump your system at a low level and adjust the gain from 2v to 8v to 1v and stay on the adjustment that yields the least volume, for now. Have you thought about getting your alternator rewound to produce more current? That would be cheaper than buying a high output alternator.
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Old 01-30-2003, 07:16 PM
johnp123
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its a eclipse 3320? is the biggest one eclipse makes its like 650w's and its silver
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Old 01-30-2003, 07:16 PM
johnp123
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wut does gain actually do? and its a 2 channel AMP
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Old 01-30-2003, 07:28 PM
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The gain setting attempts to match the head units output to the amplifiers input.
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  #13  
Old 01-30-2003, 08:50 PM
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higher would mean?
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  #14  
Old 01-30-2003, 08:50 PM
johnp123
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should i just change it around and guess wut sounds better?
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  #15  
Old 01-30-2003, 09:11 PM
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Go ahead and switch the input selectivity control first to 8V and watch and listen to your sub. If it sounds bad switch back to 2V. Then try to switch it to 1V and see if the output of the sub is better. Start this test with the system at a low level.
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