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  #46  
Old 04-30-2005, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
I plan on making an new rear deck panel raising the center to allow 2 - 10" free air subs to mount in the deck (after relocating the vacume resivoir to between the tank and the cover panel) not the best way but best way within the limits of this cars design I think..
This sounds interesting, but I can't quite picture it. So the subs would be housed in between the original deck and the "new" deck?

Well I am starting on my audio project soon....I have gotten a nice two channel amp and some 5.25" image dynamics components ordered. I am researching subs and sub amps now. I plan on getting the amps and components installed and then auditioning a couple of boxed subs to see if enough bass comes into the cabin with just the first aid kit removed.


GTA that jl sub is really nice...can't afford it, but you have done no other mods to the rear shelf except for removing the first-aid tray?
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1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold
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  #47  
Old 04-30-2005, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stimer
This sounds interesting, but I can't quite picture it. So the subs would be housed in between the original deck and the "new" deck?

Well I am starting on my audio project soon....I have gotten a nice two channel amp and some 5.25" image dynamics components ordered. I am researching subs and sub amps now. I plan on getting the amps and components installed and then auditioning a couple of boxed subs to see if enough bass comes into the cabin with just the first aid kit removed.


GTA that jl sub is really nice...can't afford it, but you have done no other mods to the rear shelf except for removing the first-aid tray?

Picture this...you see how the rear deck sinks downward...........you make a frame in that shape but you build in a rise to the center....that gives you the depth from the deck to the tank to fit the free air subwoofers, I would relocat e the vacume resivoir to allow for this on the passenger side. Now this is with a W123 but the idea will apply to other models also.

there is a little bit more to do to isolate the speakers on each end from the subs but you get the idea now I hope.

They have to be free air subwoofers.....not regular ones due to not having space for a propersize enclosure, so these type are less efficiant.

I plan on doing this with both my W123 AND my W116 ...........will start it soon.
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1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
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Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 04-30-2005 at 07:39 PM.
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  #48  
Old 05-01-2005, 01:00 AM
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Thanks Bonehead...
So....you are planning to replace the rear deck with a new rear deck that is higher by about 6" or so? If I did this I would more than likely just get rid of the rear speakers entirely. It just got too dark for me to take out the back seat, but I will do it tomorrow and take a look around. I did take some measurements and a 10" sub could fit up there no problem...two 10's could fit if you wanted.

What about just placing a sub into the removed first-aid tray hole? Maybe the trunk could act as the enclosure...just thinking out loud, but I think there are some obstructions below the first-aid opening.

Keep me posted on your progress and I will do the same.
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1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold
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  #49  
Old 05-01-2005, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stimer
Thanks Bonehead...
So....you are planning to replace the rear deck with a new rear deck that is higher by about 6" or so? If I did this I would more than likely just get rid of the rear speakers entirely. It just got too dark for me to take out the back seat, but I will do it tomorrow and take a look around. I did take some measurements and a 10" sub could fit up there no problem...two 10's could fit if you wanted.

What about just placing a sub into the removed first-aid tray hole? Maybe the trunk could act as the enclosure...just thinking out loud, but I think there are some obstructions below the first-aid opening.

Keep me posted on your progress and I will do the same.
not 6 inches............but about 2 inches tallers than the drop center of the deck is now........most free air subs are just under 6" in depth...and I think its about 4" to the tank roughly from the deck.....you need to fabricate a deck panel just tall enough for the speakers to clear the tank.......some of the Free air subs I have found are under 6" in depth....anything deeper is not workible in my mind.....

the free air subs will use the trunk as an enclosure.......I want 2 - 10" subs in the car......I am certain I can do it this way....if you use only one you don't need to relocate the vacume resivour.

the only obstruction under the first aid container is the tank........... you will need to trim some sheet metal if you run 2 subs however.

Of course to do this you will need some carpendry skills.....so if you got tools to do it and enough skills....(keep in mind its going to be carpeted..not stained and varnished.) then its possible.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #50  
Old 05-08-2005, 05:46 AM
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TY Bonehead---no, I dont have the skills or the tools, but I am getting a system put in within a week or two...once the comps and amps are installed I can start playing around with some sub ideas. Thanks again for your time....I'll keep you posted. BTW, if anyone is interested in some 4" pioneers that fit right into the stock dash locations to upgrade those old stock speakers let me know.
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1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold
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  #51  
Old 05-09-2005, 02:19 PM
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Well I am no woodworker but I do have the basic tools to do it.....without even basic tools it would be too much of a job.....without the rise of my proposed rear deck panel I think you would have serius problems with the distance of the tank for a sub....a 6x9 is not an issue however..
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #52  
Old 05-09-2005, 07:03 PM
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What I meant ya bonehead (jk) was I am gonna waste my money to have someone put in a sub for me. Well, to me its not a waste as I am rather mechanically uinclined, and I'd rather pay someone to do it right. I like your idea of a free air design, and had been thinking of a way to do it. The sub I have picked out is an image dynamics idq10. It has been used free-air in some other designs I have looked at. The choices my installer has given me are:

1. A plain sealed box.

2. A sealed box with a fiberglassed vent type system to funnel the bass into the open first aid hole.

3. Your option which I will present to him to see if he would feel comfortable doing it and how much it would cost me.

take it easy...RT
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1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold
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  #53  
Old 05-19-2005, 11:46 PM
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I hope you know I was just kidding about the bonehead comment. Anyway, my install was completed today. It sounds great. I went with image dynamics components (5.25" 2ohm chameleons) and an image dynamics sub (idq-10 dual 2ohm version). The fronts are powered by an arc audio amp which puts out 125 watts x 2 @ 2ohms. The sub is powered by a precision power pc275 which puts out 300 watts bridged at 4 ohms. There was no room for kick panel pods so I opted for door placements. The tweeter sits right next to the midbass driver. The tweeters are adjustable, and I suggest getting some that are in order to point them how you want after they are mounted. The locations are about as forward as they can be in the doors. A simple sealed enclosure houses the sub. One reason for picking the idq-10 was that the enclosure size can be as small as .3 cubuc feet. I opted for a .5 cubic feet enclosure, and it really doesn't take up that much room in the trunk. The first aid kit was removed and a nice covering placed over the hole that was left. There is just enough bass....perfect my listening, but I imagine serious bassheads would want a bit more. The installer had originally put an mtx sub, powered off of my amp, to get an idea if there would be enough bass without modifying the rear deck. After confirming this and building my enclosure, he reported that my sub didn't have quite the output that the mtx had, but the idq is strictly a sound quality sub. Again, it sounds great, and I was pleasently surprised by the amount of bass by simply removing the first aid tray. I will try and post some pics within the next couple of days to help anyone out that is thinking about this type of upgrade. This upgrade wasn't cheap, but I have no regrets at all about spending the money. The time it would have taken me to learn how to do this, and then to actually do it, combined with the amount of headaches I would have gone through makes me think this was one time where it was best to just pay someone with 20+ years of experience to do the job.
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1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold
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  #54  
Old 05-22-2005, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stimer
I hope you know I was just kidding about the bonehead comment. Anyway, my install was completed today. It sounds great. I went with image dynamics components (5.25" 2ohm chameleons) and an image dynamics sub (idq-10 dual 2ohm version). The fronts are powered by an arc audio amp which puts out 125 watts x 2 @ 2ohms. The sub is powered by a precision power pc275 which puts out 300 watts bridged at 4 ohms. There was no room for kick panel pods so I opted for door placements. The tweeter sits right next to the midbass driver. The tweeters are adjustable, and I suggest getting some that are in order to point them how you want after they are mounted. The locations are about as forward as they can be in the doors. A simple sealed enclosure houses the sub. One reason for picking the idq-10 was that the enclosure size can be as small as .3 cubuc feet. I opted for a .5 cubic feet enclosure, and it really doesn't take up that much room in the trunk. The first aid kit was removed and a nice covering placed over the hole that was left. There is just enough bass....perfect my listening, but I imagine serious bassheads would want a bit more. The installer had originally put an mtx sub, powered off of my amp, to get an idea if there would be enough bass without modifying the rear deck. After confirming this and building my enclosure, he reported that my sub didn't have quite the output that the mtx had, but the idq is strictly a sound quality sub. Again, it sounds great, and I was pleasently surprised by the amount of bass by simply removing the first aid tray. I will try and post some pics within the next couple of days to help anyone out that is thinking about this type of upgrade. This upgrade wasn't cheap, but I have no regrets at all about spending the money. The time it would have taken me to learn how to do this, and then to actually do it, combined with the amount of headaches I would have gone through makes me think this was one time where it was best to just pay someone with 20+ years of experience to do the job.
I know you was kidding about the comment....

Well if you know your skill set is not up to what the job needs its best to have gone to a pro. Its good you are able to judge yourself.

I've seen too many cars hacked to death by someone who should never have started a job like that.

Whats even more important is you are happy with the results......
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #55  
Old 05-25-2005, 12:10 AM
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With a little creativity, some determination and the right hole saws, the W123 is quite a suitable host for a premier-quality sound system. I once documented the process by which I installed my MB Quart 6.5" drivers in the front door panels, but those pics reside only on my dead laptop (the three rules of data integrity: backup, backup, backup). So I have attached here some pics of my system. The rear doors had ample room also for a set of Alpine 4" drivers, and the hatshelf--with a little modification--is a fine location for a powered sub (Clarion, in this case). All told, this is a 9-speaker setup (I know...my sig says 11, but I removed a set recently), and the Eclipse head unit has an analog input perfect for my iPod. The tunes never end, and I find myself making the merest excuses for road-tripping.
Attached Thumbnails
W123 audio-speaker_front.jpg   W123 audio-rear_speaker.jpg   W123 audio-hatshelf_sub.jpg   W123 audio-amps_trunk.jpg   W123 audio-ipod.jpg  

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  #56  
Old 05-26-2005, 03:19 AM
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My camera battery is all but dead, so I had about a minute to take these photos. Just hope it lets others see that it is possible to get some good sounds without heavy modifications. You can barely see one of the rear 6X9's that was already installed when I purchased the car. I use them for rear fill powered by the headunit, but they are completely unneccesary...i just kept them because they were already there.

link to photos....here----> http://photobucket.com/albums/y253/1stimer/
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1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold
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  #57  
Old 05-26-2005, 10:11 AM
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Looks like they did a good install...I was trying to avoid cutting my pristine door panels..... But that was a choice I made...You will definately get better sound from that door setup than I get from my dash mounted MB Quart speakers....
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #58  
Old 05-26-2005, 04:28 PM
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I think they did a great job...My plan for this car is to give it to my step-son in 5 years...There are no plans on ever selling it, but I know what you mean....my panels are in excellent shape as well. The enjoyment I will recieve out of the speakers outweighs, in my mind, the defacing of the original panels. Good luck to anyone else looking for quality sounds to enhance their enjoyment of these quality vehicles.
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1984 300D---Sold
1995 E420 - 106K - Brilliant Silver Metallic/Orion Gray --- Sold
1984 300SD - 151K Manganese Brown Metallic/Mostly Black --- Sold
1982 240D - 79K - Manila Beige/Palomino---Sold
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