HI,

from the picture 2, the only wire that gives off any reading is the gray/blue wire. the reading .05 amps.

I have checked the fuses, it doesnt look broken, no corrosions on the connections, but I think i will replace all the fuses in there, there are some OTHER electrical problems in the car, like no lighting on the switches in the console and light bulbs.

SO anyway, i plugged the deck into the cigar lighter wires (brown and bl/yellow) to the RED, and I heard something in the deck, like some motor but thats it, and that only happened once. There is no display on the screen.

The yellow wire is primarily for clock and radio preset memory but I believe it has to have power for the unit to work properly. Try again with the yellow and red wires tied to the black and yellow wire from the car.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Is the deck turned on? Re. the dead constant power wire, check upstream for an in-line fuse holder. Sometimes these get wired in for aftermarket radios. And sixto's suggestion is a good one, at least to verify that the HU works properly.

hey sixto,
your idea worked.
I tied the yellow and red wires together and put it into the blk/yellow constant.
Everything looks great right now, the clock does not reset when I turn it off.

Will there be any problems with doing the set up this way in the long run?

You guys have been very helpful, thanks a lot.

Now I just have to figure out how to wire in new speakers.

The clock will only hold for a while with no power (key out). I doubt it will last more than a couple of hours. The bigger problem/inconvenience is that the stereo might forget volume and tone settings and where along the CD you left off. You won't be able to insert or eject a CD with the stereo off. Things like that.

The rear dome light switch above the stereo should have a hot wire. I'm not sure if it's easier to access the back side of the switch from the glove box cavity or by pulling the ACC controls.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Hi,
I checked the rear dome light,
and its not hot, the only hot wire i can find from the console is the hazard lights.
Do u know where else there may be a hot wire?
Are the constant hots only red/white?

thanks

if you're looking for constant 12v, you should find it coming from one of the wires in the oem harness. just use a voltmeter to test for positive 12v with ignition off.

Is this what your dash looks like, and is this the same radio that you removed? If so, it looks just like mine (85 380SE), so I'll email you the wiring diagram tonight, if it will help.

EDIT TEXT (added 04/05/14)(so I don't bump to top): I sent the wiring diagrams last night. Hope you got them. I suggest checking the lead from the emergency flasher back to the fuse, and if there are no other high-amperage draw devices on this fuse, connect to this for your 12V constant, since the memory/clock are very small. Make a note that this fuse is the constant 12V circuit.

hi,

yes thats how it looks like,
you can email it here, mtang@sympatico.ca

thanks

Hi Guys,

I got a 1992 300E that I'm gonna put an aftermarket cd player in since radio/cassette doesnt work. There is no cd changer in trunk but i see a plug for one.I got the radio out, found some instructions online.

btw, where should I get a service manual for this car, either cd or download. I see a bunch on ebay, but which one is good.


What aftermarket blends in ok @ $150?


I splice into wires of the car that went to the headunit. Now in the trunk, I see 3 boxes, think 2 are amps and the other one is a tuner? I'm not interested in any extra amps or anything. Just want decent sound, does not have to blow windows out. What do I do about theses? Just disconnect them? Leave them connected? Bypass them?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

btw, love this ride! my 1st MB!

Thanks,

Fish

You should be able to find all speaker leads from the 2 amps in the trunk. You'll probably find left front, left rear connections on the left amp, and right front, right rear connections on the right amp.

Bypass the amps so you can power the speakers with your aftermarket's built-in amp. This should give you a clearer sound and you can avoid bad amp problems in the future, since mb amps are notorious for going bad one at a time.

Hi, Thanks for the help.

Also, I take it my power antenna is hooked up to the tuner in the trunk? Therefore I need to run an extention up to the aftermarket radio going into the dash? If so, whats the best place to snake it? How does the back seat come out?

appreciate the help.

Fish

I would suggest that you re-post the topic, as this is now drifting away rapidly from Oasis' original post. Then, we can contribute directly to your specific issues and questions.

Help! Please explain...
 

I have checked the head unit for power and everything looks good so far....now for the speaker wires..

I don't understand your explanation because I think I have only 4 wires coming out of the car, but 8 wires into the receiver. I will try to attach a photo that shows red/black wires on the top right, green/brown on the top left, and the two bottom wires are the same color, grey/brown. Am I right to assume the top two wires are the ones to cut, but how do I attach 4 wires to 8?

Thanks for any help....:confused:

If you have the typical 80s MB with a fader control behind the shifter then you should have 4 speaker wires in the stereo cavity which lead to the fader control and 6 speaker wires downstream of the fader control.

You have the choice of using 4 wires from the replacement stereo to provide a signal to the existing fader control, or bypassing the existing fader control and running new wires to the speakers. You can shortcut new wires all the way through by bridging the front left and and rear left (-) wires and front right and rear right (-) wires leaving you with 6 wires to connect downstream of the existing fader. MAKE SURE YOUR REPLACEMENT STEREO WILL NOT BE DAMAGED BY WIRING IT THIS WAY!

I see from your sig line that you have a 240D and 300E. This should work for the 240D but the wire colors I provided early in this thread are for most 80s MBs. I don't know if your 300E has the later Becker 1432 or similar stereo that has external amplifiers. If so, you need a completely different wiring strategy.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL