When I think I am done with work on my car and want to take a rest, I find something. Today I found tiny paint bubble near the black rubber on the outside of driver's door. The rubber is between the window and metal window frame when the window is closed. I opened the window and lifted the rubber. I saw rust there. About finger nail size.

I am sick and tired of this kind of rust. Last fall, I found several spots of rust on top of the driver's door under rubber sponge - I broke a little bit of metal when I was scraping rust-. I found another rust area near sunroof rubber (on the roof, not the sunroof panel.), rear of the sunroof panel. I treated with POR-15. One month ago, I found another rust area near sunroof rubber, front of the sunroof panel. I treated with RustBullet. Today, near rubber on driver's door.

How can I prevent such rust?

I have no money to have every rubber removed from my car body for rust inspection and repair.

Will rustproofing solve this problem?

Which rustproof is good for MB? I asked a service advisor at dealer but he does not know what I mean by rustproof. He told me about Simonizing - a kind of wax on outside surface only -. I called a local bodyshop and heard that people do not do rustproof anymore.
MB owner's manual is against aftermarket rustproof, but there is a page recommending rustproof on MB service CD. Anyway, I want aftermarket rustproof because dealers do not offer it.

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.

http://www.cortecvci.com/Publications/Reports/powerboat-article/Powerboat.pdf

here is a comparision test.

I've used the cortec gel and been amazed- also these things are non toxic.

I've spoken with the reps and asked her why no one seems to recommend her products- and why if corosion can be completely controlled- why it is not more well known.

She said- no one gets rewarded for making people buy less of your stuff. Corosion is loved by the industry.

Por-15 is supposed to lock rust and wont let it spread.
www.por15.com

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Detailing Products

Check this out (sorry for the cross post)

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html


Iwannanutherdiesel
(04 VW TDI Passat)

Yeah i live in the rust belt myself. My bodyshop guy tells me there are chemicals out there to hold it. Where the eye does not see it. I might consider using a rust converter. (changes rust to iron oxide) Then take a small airbrush or paintbrush and paint area after prepping properly. Something like dremel drill with small wire brush first to remove all loose material. Basically you cannot stop rust only slow it down unless you either cut it out or convert it. Surface rust on fenders originating from trim clip holes and spreading out under the paint seem to be a no cost option on some earlier mercedes bodys. When they reach an inch in diameter I just take off chrome, sandblast with very small recirculating blaster,metal prep and refinish small area with medium airbrush. Before starting but after removing trim i remove offending plastic trim clip retainer to properly treat plastic retainer hole as thats where the problem originated i believe. Does not exactly match but at least stops the rust starting up again. The bubbly paint appearance is gone as well. I have to do something as the spread rate seems pretty fast and if left will hole body in that area in a couple of years or so. Moisture behind paint seems to increase rate of rust spread. Yes you can treat a bodys inner panels and structual components to slow some of it down. In my opinion you almost have to do it yourself though as it takes quite a bit of time to do a though job. But as it is labour intensive it is also cheap.

You might also want to get the cor-tec pads which are inpregated with rust proofing solution which you can dump inside door panels and other interior areas. The stuff is non toxic so you can liberally apply them. I hope that helps.

J