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ronridd 06-01-1999 01:32 AM

Well, baby has had it's first wax and looks great.

Let's talk about inside.

I've been using the vacuum and water on a safe terry cloth inside. My c230 k has silver interior with a black dash. I opted for the walnut instead of the sport trim, which I felt ruined the interior (sorry for any offense).

For the dash and all interior plastic, I'm using the Mercedes interior stuff, which is made by McG. This includes the seats except for my leather inserts

For the walnut I use safe terry with a little water.

Questions:

1. How often should I very lighly use the interior cleaner/protect I'm using? What would you suggest I use for the interior? (I got the stuff I'm using at the dealership).

1. I'm really nervous about the wood. It swirls so easy! Any hints here or pointers to older threads would be appreciated.

P.S. I got one of those attachements for the vacuum that works down in the little cracks and has brush attachments. It's kind of like a vacuum dental tool. Got it at WalMart for $9.99. Highly suggested for anyone looking to get in to those tough areas.

thanks
-ronridd-

Lee Scheeler 06-01-1999 03:24 AM

The vacuum with most attachments, especially the crevice oriented type you mentioned, is your best 1st step. Once the loost dust and stuff is sucked out you can move on to cleaning it. BTW, be careful with the little "brush" attachments near the wood. I doubt they are softer than 100% cotton and they could easily swirl. Use a Q-tip dipped in #34 or #7 (depending on level of cleaning) instead. The micro-brush should work great for seat and other out of the way places, just be careful around the wood with it.

For vinyl, plastic, etc I would highly recommend Lexol's "Vinylex". Lightly cleans (read: gently cleans) and protects. If any scum does not respond to Vinylex then you may have to resort to a stronger cleaner like Windex or something similar. A little Vinylex goes a long way, spray on a rag (to avoid splatter marks on interior) then just wipe'n'buff.

For the interior glass, just use windex. Don't spray the window as you can leave "spray patterns" on the rest of the interior. Just spray into a rag/paper towel at close range then wipe.

For the leather: Cleaning...Lexol's leather cleaner (orange bottle), cut with VERY VERY VERY little water or dampish rag. Wipe over the leather paying special attention to areas like the steering wheel, driver's seat, or anywhere else that is high traffic/stress. Wipe with one side of the rag that is the damp/lexol cleaner mixed, then flip the rag or use another separate damp rag to wipe down the soaped areas.
Conditioning: I either recommend Lexol's conditioner for most leather conditioning or Passier's Lederbalsam. The Lederbalsam is ultra-high end tack conditioner and really does an amazing job. Its a bit more of a hassle to use but once your used to it you will never go back. (If someone really wants some I can find it for you.) Apply either conditioner using a small sponge. Coat all leather surfaces equally then let sit for a time. Pay attention to where it has seeped in and appears like it could use more. Reapply to those areas and let sit. Once you have all areas appearing nice and equal through layered application buff the leather surfaces down with a clean, dry, terry-cloth.

For the wood: the wood is possibly the one surface on your car that swirls easier than the paint. Treat it as you would the most oversensitive/oversoft paint. LIGHT applications of Meguiar's #9 can remove light swirls but be very careful the coating on the wood is very thin and easily ruined. Clean with 100% cotton terry applications/removal of #7, then protect with #26. Using #26 is important because the "Gold Class" wax has some other things in it that do not mesh as well with the wood. Apply and remove the #26 in the same manner you would the rest of the finish, except be even more careful and even more gentle. Another quick cleaner or de-duster for the wood is Slick Stuff or Meguiar's #34. Spray on a rag (to avoid the splatter marks) then LIGHTY wipe accross the wood, flip to dry side of true 100% cotton terry, and wipde dry. When I say lightly think...only the weight of the rag itself being dragged accross the surface.

To supplement what I have said above, or as a general help when you seek information, try using the "Search" function in the top-right corner of the Shop Forum. It accesses all the posts/answers that have transpired to date. It can sometimes answer, and almost always help on whatever topic you have in mind.

Best of Luck and if you need anything further don't hesitate to ask...Lee


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