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  #1  
Old 07-07-1999, 03:26 AM
Hamilton
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I am getting ready to wax my 95 champagne colored mercedes. It hasnt been waxed in one year but is garaged kept from what i understand i use the meguiars I should start out with the #7 then #26 then #34 is this correct? what should i use on the tires and interior what kind of time am i looking at for the waxing thanks
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Old 07-07-1999, 01:22 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Hamilton,
The #7 should be used until you get no oxidation coming off on the removal rag. (residue should be product colored, not blackish) Once your to that state the removal rag will squeak profusely when wiped accross the surface. Once you get to that point it is time to wax. #26 is very good but so is Meguiar's Gold Class liquid wax. The Gold Class looks great on the paint but will leave white residue on trim, between panels, etc. The #26 will not leave any residue, in fact, I use #26 on most of the trim to keep it looking tip-top.

The best removal combo for both looks and effort is removing in a quick once over with a 100% cotton terry, then giving it a final 100% perfect removal polish with a 100% cotton diaper-like cloth. The nap of the terry removes most applicated product effiently but doesn't quite get the last 10% or so. The diaper does not remove large amounts effiently, but is superp for a final polish. You can finish with #34 but it isn't necessary. It works best for de-white dusting areas surrounding panels done with Gold Class.

Interior: Lexol products are among the best. PH leather cleaner and conditioner for the leather...Vinylex for non leather surfaces. If you apply the Vinylex and leave it will shine almost like Armor All. If you apply, let sit, then buff with a dry cloth it will leave a nice patina. Treat the wood like you wood the MOST fragile exterior paint. Meguiar's #'ed products work well, application and removal with a very soft 100% cotton rag (with MINIMAL amounts of pressure) and of course a Q-tip dunked in #34 for crevices.

This should get you one very fine looking job. If you run into any difficulty or have any more questions we are always happy to help.

Lee

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Old 07-07-1999, 11:04 PM
MBCA Concours Judge
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Canfield, Ohio
Posts: 34
I agree 100% with everything Lee said above.

I just want to add one comment: The Meguiars Gold Class will make your Smoke Silver (that is the actual name of your color)look like wet glass! It does an awesome job on Smoke Silver paint!

Good Luck!
Mike

------------------
1986 300E 138k
MBCA Concours Judge
Board Member -
Western Reserve Section
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Old 07-09-1999, 02:11 AM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Got a related technique question for you guys - what's the best way to get an even coat of #7 polish onto the finish? using a cotton terry cloth, i'm having a bit of trouble getting the polish to go onto the paint without using too much of the stuff. It seems like it "dries up" quickly (either on the finish or into the rag), so to get it to spread evenly i have to put a lot on.

thanks!
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Old 07-09-1999, 03:29 PM
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Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Anthony,
The best application medium is a piece of foam covered by 100% cotton terry. I get mine handmade from a private individual but I'm sure you can find something similar. If not, post or email me back, I will see what I can do about getting some for the public at large. When applying #7 and it starts sticking in areas, that is a clue that there is some oxidation or contaminants over those spots. You should only be applying to a small area at a time. No larger than half the hood or roof, or 1 body panel at a time. Apply/remove one panel at a time for best results. The right tools (mitts, towels, applicators, the right products, and of course some patience make all the difference. When you work the panel use linear application strokes until you can get it to wipe evenly. If you get the finish to that state you will see some dramatic results when you remove the polish. As usual, never try and apply or remove in direct sunlight or on an otherwise hot panel. Sounds like you are on the right track. If you have any other questions we are happy to help.

Oh BTW, the Gold Class ytown and I refer to seems to make the most profound difference on medium to darker metallic paint. I never noticed a difference on my Brilliant Silver 400E, but I do notice a positive difference on my Pearl Black 500E. Gold Class made the finish of a 040 Black 300E look worse when used vs the #26 so that is why I say medium to dark metallics.

Hope this helps...Lee
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Old 07-09-1999, 11:11 PM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Thanks. Our local kragen has terry covered pads, but i'm not sure if they're 100% cotton or not.

I think part of my problem might be the fact that, up until a couple months ago, our 12 year old 300E hadn't been polished (ever), just occasionally washed and waxed. Now that I think about it, there's probably a lot of stuff to work out of the finish.

I'm using turtle wax's emerald class wax formula right now, but i think i'll check out the meguiar's wax when i get through this container. The paint color is a dark metallic grey (diamond grey), which incidentally looks better and better as the plastic trim turns grey with age. =)

thanks again

[This message has been edited by anthonyb (edited 07-09-1999).]
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Old 07-10-1999, 03:34 AM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
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Anthony,
One (no pun intended) sure fire way to test if a fabric in question is truly 100% cotton: burn the edges. If there is any synthetic it will gum and ball up, if it is 100% cotton it will simply char. Sacrificing one pad (or part of one) is worth avoiding swirl marks in the paint.

I guarantee you will like the Meguiar's #26 or Gold Class liquid when you switch over. If all of the local pads turn out to be synthetic I can put you in touch with a source for true 100% cotton (including the threads) applicators, mitts, towels, etc.

Happy Polishing....Lee
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