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Old 08-14-1999, 04:15 PM
Robert W. Roe's Avatar
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Location: Lehigh Valley PA
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I just got done (?) cleaning my bright trim on the door and window frames of my SD. I used Meguiar's #7 mostly, and #9 a little bit. It got a bit brighter, but I'm wondering if I should try leaving something on for a while (Flitz, #7?) and buffing later. Either way, I have a feeling that this will not be the easiest job. If anyone else is doing the same experiment, let's compare notes

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Robert W. Roe
1984 300SD 165K miles


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Old 08-15-1999, 09:59 PM
john r
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My 86 420 sel has this nightmare also. Is
that meguiars polish as good as flitz ???
Even when I used flitz for an hour I only got very light improvments. But I still have hope and I will not resort to just replacing the trim. I hope you don't either. I know it is some sort of corrosion and if it went on over time I will take it off over time. If it takes weeks or months, I'm still going to get this stuff off !!! yeah I'm crazy
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Old 08-16-1999, 01:03 AM
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Meguiar's polish seems to work better on cleaner/less oxidized surfaces. Flitz seems to suit the more neglected/older finish better. You could try applying Flitz with a SOFT bristled toothbrush (avoid the paint at all costs here) and then letting it sit on for about 20 mins before removing. If that does not work try some Meguiar's #9 Swirl Remover and an orbital buffer... If that doesn't work, join the club of 80's cars with ultra-ultra stubborn trim. If/when we (or anyone else) finds a cure we will pass it on to you.

HOpe this helps...Lee
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Old 08-16-1999, 01:29 AM
Robert W. Roe's Avatar
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Thanks for the replies, Lee and John. I used Flitz on my '83 and it seemed to take a little bit of the clouding off, and I used #7 and #9 to remove some from my '84 just this weekend. I'm going to try Lee's suggestion of a toothbrush, and leaving Flitz dry for 20 minutes.

I noticed on the Meguiar's instructions they recommend using it in cool weather, in the shade. It's been over 90 degrees here both times I've applied either product. Will it work better at 70 degrees? Hoping

John, I'm pretty determined to get mine clean also. It's a job that is small enough to be done often, each weekend or more often. I think Lee is on to something when he suggests leaving the cleaning product on for a long time. Apply, reapply, let dry, reapply and polish. Wondering if a light film could be left on the car longer than 20 minutes, say, overnight? I might try increasing the drying time incrementally, beginning with 20 minutes.

It's a stubborn oxidation, fifteen years of corrosion, on what appears to be polished aluminum (?). So, I should be able to get my trim as shiny as the shiny side of a piece of aluminum foil.

I've also been wondering it if it might be clearcoated. However, the dealer that got my '83 SD in trade was able to get its trim bright and shiny. It had the clouding pretty heavily on over half the trim. Their detailing guy spent two days on the car with rubbing compounds, and a buffer. Not sure how much paint he took off, but the car was very shiny

Robert W. Roe
1984 300SD 165K miles

[This message has been edited by Robert W. Roe (edited 08-16-1999).]
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