I'd like to discuss waxing technique(s); more specifically, technique(s) to use when waxing close to crevices (i.e. - between body panels/body moulding) and rubber/plastic moulding (i.e. - around window frames, door handles, sunroof). Does one: (a) just apply the wax without regard to "overstepping" the bounds of the aforementioned areas, or (b) meticulously avoid getting wax in/on those areas? If (a), how does one go about taking care of the "dried residue" in the cracks (fine brush? toothpick and compressed air?) or on the rubber/plastic parts?. I've got a Pearl Black 2.3-16V and it sure looks sh@#$% to see white residue in the wheel arch crevices, etc. A lot of times it's not just in applying the wax, but in removing it. That is, the "powdered" residue will find its way into nearby gaps/crevices. Any opinions on those "colored" waxes? At least if there's residue, a "black" wax may not stand out as much.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm sure others could benefit from those that have this waxing-thing "figgered" out .

Thanks!

Brian

2 things...

Firstly, I keep some masking tape in my detailing box (more like a chest now!). I tape off the door handle (1 min work...save hours) and I tape off anything which I dont want wax on.

Secondly, to remove the wax residue, and to make sure the surface is perfect, I take a piece of natural silk, and 'flick' it over the car, a technique they use to dust fine antiques. The silk really doesnt touch the car, just generate a breeze to remove the dust. Works great.

Bri

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Brian Drought
1991 300CE
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~drought/
ICQ: 2180069

Brian,
Peal Black looks great with Meguiars Gold Class wax on it. Downside to that and many other waxes is the residue you describe. Before we get into how to deal with the residue there is a simple way to get around the white residue alltogether. Try using Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #26 Yellow Wax. The wax really isn't yellow, but it works great. Its very slightly more difficult to remove than Gold Class and it isn't quite as durable. The upside is that on a perfectly polished paint surface it looks outstanding. Did I mention it leaves no white residue on rubber or just about anything else? It does...

That said, you've still got to deal with the white-ish residue in crevices and trim. For door/trunk/hood-jambs, just open the door and buff. A spritz of #34/Quick Detailer can help. For rubber trim start by going over the trim (and JUST the trim) with something like Windex until you get no more black-ish residue on the rag. Then apply a dressing like Vinylex or Endurance with a Q-tip or fingertip. Buff over once to finish. One other good "trick" for getting into tight spots is to take a credit card (not the most treasured one in your wallet) and use that underneath a terry/diaper cloth to probe grooves and other tight areas. Give the above a try and let me know how it works for you.

Hope this helps...Lee

Thanks Lee and Bri -- will give it a try the next go 'round. Car's in the shop today for an annoying rattle. Just found out I need to replace my catalytic converter

Brian