I have several California Dusters that work GREAT! I use the large one on the exteriors, a small one for the interior, and another small one for ........yes, I'm one of those......... the engine bay. After every wash, I detail the interior and the engine bay and they really work quite well. I have used the P 21S chamois on the cars, but all of you have convinced to purchase a California Blade !!!!!

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Dale, R129
W202

I been using the california water blade myself for a few months now. I think its ok, it does NOT leave scratches or anything of the nature. You still ahve to use a chamois or as I use "the absorber" afterwards.

Many people listen to the infomercials or advertising and think they can throw away there chamois and use just the blade, well to do the job right and get all the nooks and crannies, you still need your chamois or the absorber.

The truth is well said.

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... Kerry

126 tailed by a 203, 129 leading the pack.

I was once told that if a car is properly waxed, very little water will stick to the finish. As a result, a simple spin around the block (at the legal speed limit, of course ) would be all that's necessary to get most of the water off.

This is a method that I have stuck to for awhile now. Just use the water as it comes out of the end of a hose and it should sheet off almost completely. For areas like the roof, the trip around the block takes care of those puddles.

Then I take a dry, soft, 100% cotton cloth and gets what few drops are left. Works like a champ.

I have 2 of them, I love them and would not go back to using towles. I have however scratched one of my cars with it, it was not major and I still went out and bought anothor one. Overall I would suguest it to everyone.

The driving around idea is good, I have done that before.

Subman

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Factory trained Mercedes-Benz Technician
Look At My Website
-2002 C32
(E420 has passed away)
The best way to contat me is e-mail.

Thanks Ysmin

I too have to use the drive around the block technique, yuor right, when using it the hose, let it come out slow and start from top to bottom and let sheet off, then use water blade, then absorber, and last a drive around the block.

professional detailers have a hose that shoots compressed air onto the cracks, grooves, etc. to get out the water, if you dont have one, just drive around the block, but a word of caution...

in order to use most waxes, polishes etc water is a no no, water and wax should not and cannot mix. thats why its important to get water out of the cracks before you start using your orbital buffer or whatever.

when you drive around the block, go slow and avoid dust, dirt, etc. as much as possible before you wax. Just picture a fine layer of dust or dirt on your just washed car, once you put an orbital buffer or wax by hand, you will create swirl marks! thats why after "a drive around the block" use quick detailer or Z6 on a microfiber cloth rubbed *gently* across the surface THEN proceed to waxing.

SOrry for the long talk but i have a black car and they are soo terrible when it comes to swirl marks and scratches, you can see them from a mile away LOL.

I have heard of people using either a hair-dryer or a leaf-blower to get rid of the water, esp. in the cracks.

:-) neil

Ive used a water blade for about three months now and I love it. I got my brother to get one. I think that it is really worth the money. I actually use the water blade and three different chamois' , for different parts of the car. The blade really works well for those people who have to wash their car at the busy car wash with everyone else that heard the weather will be nice for the next few days. Because I know somtimes it just isnt possible to get your car completly out of the sun at these places, and the blade really helps in getting rid of alot of water fast before it starts to spot up.

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1997 E420 Black Opal

"Why do I have to be Mr Pink"?

I've been using the blade for two years- 99 E320, 94 E320 and 88 560SEL all black and see no problems from the blade. It really
cut the dry time and saves a lot of wet towels. I use a small towel to wipe the blade and that makes sure it doesnt pick up any dirt that may be left after washing and helps with any drips from the blade as you go back over it. I do all the flat surfaces, roof, hood , trunk, sides, windows ,then use a 100% cotton towel to finish it up. I also give it one final rinse after washing to make sure there is noloose dirt for the towel or blade to pick up.

The problem with most of these blades isn't with the blades themselves, its with tiny particulate (sand, grit, etc) being between the blade and the finish. When you use the blade....the entire cars surface is being gone over by an area the size (in square inches) of your hand. When you use a synthetic chamois and/or a terry you use, flip, fold, etc which spreads the contact area from a couple square inches to several square feet. Also, a terry or synthetic chamois that goes through the wash usually comes pretty well clean. I wouldn't use them on my car's finish, but if you have a good coat of wax on the car you are certainly safer than wiping a raw finish.

You can wipe the blade each time you swipe it, but imagine the same approach with your windshield wiper.... You can wipe it, but any remaining grime will not be going anywhere but pushed onto (maybe into) your car's finish and/or the blade itself. Using a synthetic chamois and terry (or straight terry) you use and flip which puts a totally fresh contact surface in contact with your paint each time. Technique applies here.... When you use a chamois or towel your hands get a living feedback of pressure points, how easily the drying medium moves over the finish, etc. Just my preference...

Hope this helps,
Lee

Not that they are all bad....I have one I used for years on my horse...worked great. Wouldn't of put it on my car though.