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#1
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Wheel Clear Coat
Anyone know the best way to get the clear coat off wheels from a W126? I want to buff them out with Jewlers rouge, but not sure how to get off the clear coat.
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#2
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Media blasting is the best way.
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#3
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What is that?
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#4
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The new term for "sand blasting" but since they don't use sand anymore (crushed nut shells, glass/plastic beads) it's called media blasting now.
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#5
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Please don't tell me that is a politically correct term!
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#6
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Why wouldn't paint remover work? Clear coat is just paint.
__________________
1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
#7
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I assume you're planning on removing the paint and repainting yourself. I've heard from a couple folks that have done this and they swore they would never do it again - major PITA. My clear coat has finally seen better days on the 126 after 18+ years and I'm debating what to do. Right now, my top option is to have them chromed at a cost of $1k. Interested to learn what others have done.
__________________
Chris '04 ML500 - 53k, Inspiration Edition, Desert Silver '11 Audi A4 Avant - Brilliant Black '87 300SDL sold '99 C280 Sport sold '85 190E 2.3 sold |
#8
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Chris,
I bought a second set on e-bay for very little money. I thorougly cleaned them with a wire brush to remove all the dirt and then had a shop that does my spray painting on my tooling bead blast them. Then I painted them with "Z1" paint which is supposedly the same as the Wurth. The color is a perfect match. I finished them up with a clear lacquer. Let them dry for a couple of weeks and rubbed out the finish. I will tell you that the finish from a spray can is not as good as the original factory finish. However, from 1 foot away, you cannot tell the difference. My third and fourth wheels came out especially good because I did not use too much paint. The total cost is about $60. for the paint. The bead blasting was free for me but should not be more than $100. The wheels that came off the SDL will be refinished to go onto the SD. You might consider a powder coat of the wheels if you want a real professional finish. |
#9
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Thanks, Brian; great input. Boy, you get around these forums.
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Chris '04 ML500 - 53k, Inspiration Edition, Desert Silver '11 Audi A4 Avant - Brilliant Black '87 300SDL sold '99 C280 Sport sold '85 190E 2.3 sold |
#10
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I had a couple of sets of chromed wheels over the years. I decided that chromed wheels were getting too expensive. Chroming, when done correctly, will only last 6 or 7 years at best. Done poorly, 2 or 3 years.
I picked up a 2nd set of bundt cake wheels at a "recycler" and had them polished. The polishing cost me $65 per wheel and they looked chromed after the polishing. I will have to say that keeping the brake dust off chromed or polished wheels is a big PIA, if you want to keep the wheels looking nice. I think brake dust comes off chromed wheels easier than polished wheels. The upside to polished wheels is that they'll never need to be rechromed, a big $ saver.
__________________
84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000 84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary) 2002 Explorer EB (wife's) |
#11
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Quote:
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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles. 124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny. |
#12
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A lot less than $1k here: http://www.santaanaplating.com/site/
$95/wheel Of course, I didn't have shipping, since I'm close by (relatively). Two-way shipping isn't cheap. Hopefully you have someone like them close.
__________________
The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
#13
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I notice those platers only offer a 1 year warranty.
My MB shop tells me that chrome plating wheels is a bad idea. When the plating wears, they start leaking. Major PITA. I want to have mine bead-blasted and repainted but think I'm going to buy a 2nd set on eBay rather than take my car off the road for a couple weeks. I can always turn around and sell the old set on Ebay. Bill |
#14
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