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  #1  
Old 03-24-2005, 12:44 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 2,988
Car wash and wax plan

Gentelmen

I thank all those who replied to my previous post about washing and waxing for the first time. I am just finishing up a head gasket job and now I'm ready to go.

Currently the car's condition is that water beads up well on the car except for the hard top which I don't belive was wax waxed at all when I bought the car from the dealer in October. There is some accululation of wax in some of the seams around the trunk and hood that was not buffed out properly by the dealer.

I just purchased the following materials

1) 6 Flannel Towels 100% cotton From Calderon Textiles (I will do the lighter test)

2) 8 Microtex Cleaning Towels made with micro fiber

3) 1 Microtex 6.5 sqft Drying Towel

4) 1 Meguiars super thick natural chamois

5) 1 can of Meguiars Gold Class clear coat past wax with an applicator.

6) 1 Meguiars gold class rich leather wipes.

I already have Polmolive dishwashing liquid, Simple Green and a California car Duster and Meguiars Quik Suds Car Wash Strips

My current plan is as follows. Please feel free to comment.

1) Dust car off with California Duster.

2) Wash car with Polmolive dishwashing liquid to remove old wax.

3) Dry car with the Meguiars Chamois

4) Wax car with Meguiars wax, using one of the 100% cotton flanel towels. (or is the applicator that came with the wax better for this)

5) Clean wheels with Simple Green

6) Wipe interior with Meguires leather wipes.

A few questions

1) How much dishwashing liquid do I put in to a pail of water.

2) Since I'm dying the car with the chamois, do I really have any need for the Microfiber drying towel or the Microfiber cleaning towels. I can return these or should I keep them for something else.

3) I normally use Meguiars Quik Suds Car wash strips to wash the car. This stuff does not remove wax and does a nice job. Should I wash the car again after the wax job with this.

Thank You
John Roncallo
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2005, 02:03 PM
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1) You should probably skip the palmolive step. Just wash it with the Megs Quik Suds and Polish your car before you wax it with Gold Class. Meguiars ColorX probably a good polish for this step. This one should remove your old wax.

2)The Chamois usually does not dry your car completely. I usually use the microfiber for the second pass.

3) You should probably wait a day before you wash your car again after you wax it. Your car probably looks the best after you wax it. Why would you want to wash it again?
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2005, 02:08 PM
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BTW You might want to wash the wheel and tires first before you wash paint. Dump the soap and refill with new soap and water for the paint. The wheels are usually the dirtiest part of the car. If you wash them last you'll get the splatter on your paint when you rinse them.
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  #4  
Old 03-24-2005, 09:58 PM
1990 500SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Hawthorn Woods, IL. USA
Posts: 329
I would use the diskwashing liquid, this time.

For future washes use the Mequiars wash.

The micro cloths are great for may things, buffing out the wax, and the final drying.

Depending on how good the finish is, you might get some clay for any special spots.
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  #5  
Old 03-25-2005, 10:05 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: east coast
Posts: 1,255
wouldn't dust the car as the first step.
would just rinse the car with water very well

would then use car wash soap and a strong hose to clean in the wheel wells and the bottom of the rocker panels plus the bottom of the bumpers front and rear.

Then do an extensive rinse of the body with water, then use the dishwashing liquid to strip old wax.

Then I would use a quality rubber protectant on all the rubber trim after using the dishwashing soap.

I would then clean the wheels, but I wouldn't detail the wheels with wax till the entire body was done.

When using simple green and dishwashing liquid. For the dishwashing liquid in a five gallon bucket I would use two cap fulls. I realize the kind of cap it is.
For the simple green I would dilute twenty : one and see how that works.
Exchange the buckets with new water and cleaner frequently. May even want to use a second bucket just to rinse off your towels.

You can never have enough towels, wet towels with lots of suds are nice for cleaning in the door, and trunk jamb. Extra towels for drying and waxing make for a much easier job.

Use the applicator that came with the wax and once you drop it on the ground use your towels.
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  #6  
Old 03-25-2005, 10:56 AM
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Location: Southeastern PA
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Roncallo, I recommend the following steps:

1. Wash car and wheels.
2. Use cleaning clay on all painted surfaces to remove surface contaminants.
3. Polish all painted surfaces with a high quality polish of your choice. Consider using a random orbital polisher if you don't have one yet.
4. Apply a coat of high quality carnauba wax to all painted surfaces, including the wheels.
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  #7  
Old 03-25-2005, 08:53 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 2,988
Thanks everyone who replied.

I'm now a little confused and have some more questions.

1) What is the difference between polish and wax.

2) What does clay do.

I think I'm going to do a practice run on my 1993 Taurus. It will be the best it's looked since 1993. And maybe if I get ambisios I'r try the 1992 F-150.

John Roncallo
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  #8  
Old 03-25-2005, 09:42 PM
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polish is like moisturizer for the paint.
wax is for protection, like bees-wax on fine wood
clay is similar to the polishing method used in tha fer east on pottery, it smooths the surface, rids it of imperfection.

the order of use on your car would be; wash.clay,polish,wax

if you rub your fingers across a freshly washed paint finish it should feel smooth like glass. If the finish is not glass smooth a liquid paint CLEANER like that sold by Meguiars or any other reputable car care manufacturer would be a way to get the paint smooth. Another method if cleaner didn't work is to use clay with a lubricant.

You always want to use the least agressive method first, If wash and polish and wax don't give you the desired effect you can move onto cleaner or clay.

Be extra careful with black paint it will scratch easily, so always use the least agressive methods.

If this is your first detailing of your car I would not clay. I would wash and wax. Then depending on the paint finish I would consider using cleaner, polish and wax at the next detailing. If paint then is not smooth I would then consider claying.

Use the search forum to learn about claying. Also do a search under '303 Protectant' for protecting plastics and vinyl
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2005, 09:56 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 2,988
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ethan

If this is your first detailing of your car I would not clay. I would wash and wax. Then depending on the paint finish I would consider using cleaner, polish and wax at the next detailing. If paint then is not smooth I would then consider claying.
Thanks Ethan

My car alread has a glass like finish when I wash it, So I guess I will just wash with the dishwashing liquid to remove the old wax and then wax. I will try the cleaners and polish on my 1993 Taurus. That car looks like crap but its a great way to get used to this stuff.

John Roncallo
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  #10  
Old 03-26-2005, 10:33 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 13
John,

Dishwashing soap is NOT needed to remove old wax, this is like an urban legend or something....nonsense really.

Ethan suggested "clay". I also highly recommend you clay the car, this step will remove the wax PLUS anything left over will be removed by your polishing step. Running just your hand over your cars paint can be misleading. Take a plastic lunch (sandwhich) baggie and put your hand inside of it and then rub your hand across your paint. By doing this you will feel exactly whats on your paint.

Clay that area then do the baggie test again. It should now feel like glass even with the baggie on.

Paint polish is NOT the same as paint "glaze". A glaze is designed to fill and hide light scratches while giving the paint alot of gloss. A paint polish is designed to clean (abrade) the paint (also called "leveling" by many professionals) and in doing so, when used with a rotary, will level out paint imperfections but not hide them.

So as stated, you wash the car, clay it, polish it and then if needed, glaze it, and then seal it. Sealing can be done with a traditional paste wax or a paint sealant.

Hope that helps,
Anthony
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  #11  
Old 03-26-2005, 11:36 AM
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For the wheels get something called P21S wheel cleaner. It works the best for the painted Mercedes wheels. Do a Google search.

And then with all your energy, can you come over and do my cars.

Dave
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2005, 12:37 PM
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I think the Dawn dishwashing liquid step got started by Zaino. There web site states "It has a high alkaline content which cuts right thru carnauba wax, paraffin, silicone oils, etc. This will get your paint finish squeeky clean and wax free."

The idea of using Dawn dishwashing liquid to strip away old waxes and polishes may or may not be a fact. Some detergents are formulated to break apart oils other are formulated to add oils. Skin care products and medical preparations can attack oils quickly and aggressively.

As far as detailing, I am not certain of dishwashing liquids effect, though I have used it under the guise that I was stripping off old waxes.

The cool thing about detailing cars is that there are so many different manufacturers and products and ways to apply, that you can mix and match until you find a system that gives you the effect you desire.
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  #13  
Old 03-26-2005, 12:59 PM
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John, as I mentioned previously clay removes surface contaminants and is not abrasive or harsh on paint. With the proper lubricant (e.g. Meguiar's Quik Detailer) it is faster, easier and more effective than any cleaner I've ever used. Try it you'll like it. Follow with polish and wax.
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  #14  
Old 03-26-2005, 04:25 PM
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Save yourself some money and instead of using a quick detailer, like Meguairs, to act as a lube for the clay just place a few drops of car wash soap in a 32oz bottle and fill the rest with water, shake and you're ready to go.

Anthony
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  #15  
Old 03-27-2005, 11:10 PM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: NC
Posts: 2,988
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
John,

Ethan suggested "clay". I also highly recommend you clay the car, this step will remove the wax PLUS anything left over will be removed by your polishing step. Running just your hand over your cars paint can be misleading. Take a plastic lunch (sandwhich) baggie and put your hand inside of it and then rub your hand across your paint. By doing this you will feel exactly whats on your paint.

Clay that area then do the baggie test again. It should now feel like glass even with the baggie on.

Anthony
Thanks for the suggestions. This weekend I did my 93 Taurus as a practice vehical. It was probably the best idea I had. I learned alot. I just did a regulare wash on the Mercedes no paint cleaner, polish or wax yet.

I then did the 93 Taurus. The Taurus paint is badly chiped has a few minor dings and scrathes and never had any hand applied wax for it's entire life span. It did occasionaly get wax put on by automatic drive threw car washes, but not in at least two years. I washed the car then used Mguiares Deep Crystal cleaner followed by Deep Crystal polish, followed by Gold class clear past wax. There is a night and day difference as can be seen by the attached photos.

I also did the plastic baggie test on both the Taurus after the wax job and the MB after the washing. Both cars felt smooth as glass without the bag. The Taurus had a slight grit feel to it with the bag. The MB had an even more grit feel with the bag despite the fact that the MB looks alot better. Neither car had a tendancy to stick to the bag. I suppose the MB will beat the Taurus after the application of wax. I will know shortly.

This was a good learning experience and well woth the effort. Some of the things I learned just cant be read about on the web, like working with the products near rubber gaskets and seams. And when you do a job like this, things you never thought of before like door jambs suddenly become relevent especially when you open the door of a freshly waxed car and see a totaly disgusting jamb. Plus working with the products, it became necessary to open the doors and overlap into the dirty jam areas, which contaminated the polishing pads.

For now I'm just going to wax the MB until I get more familiare with the products. Im also doing to try the full job on my 92 F-150. The paint is much wors than the Taurus. In fact for this vehical I will have to paint the hood befor I do anything. On this truck I will try clay.

I am still having trouble with the chamios. It is the first time I used one for dying and it seamd to leave water spots all over the car. I had to buff these out with a micro fiber towel. I really dont understand why Mguiares says to soak the chamios first. It seems to defeat the purpose of drying. In any case I ended up using it more or less to push the water off the vehical and finish up with a microfiber towel buffing out the water spots.

I would also like to thank everyone else who replied.

Thank You
John Roncallo
Attached Thumbnails
Car wash and wax plan-before1small.jpg   Car wash and wax plan-after1small.jpg  
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