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  #1  
Old 03-26-2005, 02:37 PM
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Removing Overspray

Hi all,
Back around last November my dad and I were repainting some equipment we had around here to sell. Well I got most of the prep done and he did most of the painting later on when I wasn't around but he left the pole barn doors open and the paint flew a good 50ft and landed/ dried on my cars.

Well I had the cover half way on the Talon so that saved me a bit of work but the whole Mercedes' paint now feels like sandpaper. Right after it happened I took some #0000 steel wool to the glass, it seemed to work well. Today I used some of that detailers clay to remove the overspray and it worked excellent, though I have to do it again as I see it is still a little spotty.

Anyway getting to the point, I know how to remove overspray from chrome, glass, paint, and plastic, but how do I remove overspray from rubber? Just let it wear off? I had just put on Meguirs Trim stuff the day before, but yet after several car washes the light yellow and black paint speckles still remain on it.

TIA,
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2005, 03:04 PM
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Try a little lacquer thinner on a towel or rag. Follow with your favorite rubber/vinyl dressing like "303" or Lexol "Vinylex".
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2005, 03:30 PM
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Wow I would have guessed that'd be to strong. Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2005, 03:51 PM
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I would NOT use laquer thinner unless you try it out on a spot on the car that no one will see first. And even if it seems OK, don't let it sit.

A safer method might be a clay bar. It will cost $10-15, but much safer. I know it isn't meant to do this but I tried it out and it worked well!
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Old 03-26-2005, 05:02 PM
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I have the clay bar but didn't try it, I figured it won't slide on the rubber like it will paint and will probably just leave a residue of clay on it. What did you try it on? I'm thinking mainly the bumper strips.
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
1983 / 1984 300D Sold
2000 CLK430 Cabriolet ~58k Sold
2005 Avalanche 4x4 ~66k
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Old 03-26-2005, 05:05 PM
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Well how about using the clay on the rubber and then removing the clay somehow....

That MIGHT work...
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Old 03-26-2005, 06:54 PM
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If you use the "lubricant" (which is silicone something or other), the clay should not come off. The idea on the clay is that it shears off anything that sticks up. It will work especially well on hard rubber, at least with the clay I got in the Maguiars kit.
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:15 PM
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Ok I'll give the clay a shot tomorrow.

I've always been scared of taking anything down to metal in fear of not being able to etch it right and the rust would come right back. Then again where you're from the only rust you see is on some raw iron after rain. Probably the most useful thing I've learned in the little body work I've done is to use different colors of primer on different layers then sand that down. If you sand it through the top layer and it isn't perfectly the next layer's color you've just found some dings or other surface imperfections.
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Mercedes W123 DIY pages are now located here.
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2005, 08:56 PM
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A few days ago I talked to a guy in Toronto who only details high end. He said that he wont use anything harsh or possibly damaging. He was using a clay bar with an ultra fine polish from switzerland thats about to be high end marketed. The product doesnt leave any white residue and stays on for what he said 15000km. The water just beads off, its quite impressive, ive seen beading but i mean dammmmmmnnnnnn!!

So I had to ask him about of course rubbers and plastic and what he uses. Of course I dont remember the name of the chemical but he said that on rubbers, and plastics, he applies in spots a product that will melt the very top layer and get it shiny again for ever. It renews plastic and rubber like that. I didnt get a first hand presentation but he is soon returning for a training he's gonna give me so I'll ask plenty about this.

I will try to look into this further or someone here may have heard of it and will come forth.

Peter
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  #10  
Old 03-28-2005, 11:38 PM
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Kerosene and elbow greese works well and doesn't harm anything
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