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#1
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Refinishing Zebrano
Hey everyone,
I just wanted to update you all on how my refinishing is going. I just finished stripping it of it clear plastic like coating and stain. I have now appiled the new stain and I am currently waiting about 6 hours until the next coat. Please tell me what you think... I have included pictures of when I tried all of my paint products with some very nice gloss producing results! Thanks! |
#2
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What's the exact brand of stripper and where is it available? How many times with the stripper to get it all off? Thanks. Looks great.
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
#3
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Quote:
That didn't sound right at all! Anyway, I believe he used BoostnBenz's DIY
__________________
1990 190e 2.6 - The only one I can really call "My Car". 1987 190e 2.3 - The donor car's up and running, only mods are Euros and a Sony headunit. My Dad's runabout now. 1990 300e 2.6 - The parents' ride. |
#4
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Thanks, I found the brand on BoostnBenz's site.
Didn't mean to get you all excited. The sad part is, I didn't even THINK of the double entendre. I'm spending way too much thought on cars
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later) |
#5
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Stripper, yes, I used the one manufactured in Germany! Yes, THAT Stripper!
LOL It was Kleenman's Premium Stripper. Orange metallic can with white cap, $5.62 with tax at my local Home Depot! |
#6
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Thanks for keeping us posted. How did you select your stain? Is it matching up with other remaining pieces (ashtray, climate control surround, etc)?
Looking forward to your finished product. Please continue to post progress. |
#7
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I cannt wait to see the results either, wish u the best of luck with the rest of your project. Post more pics soon!
__________________
Nate 1995 E420 1992 BMW 525i 1984 300D Turbo sold 1993 Volvo 244 sold 1995 Volvo 944T R.I.P! "The details are not details. They make the product." -Charles Eames www.cbs.nu |
#8
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Hey everyone!
So far so good, I just ran out of my aerosol spar urathane (Finish for wood (the clear stuff on top)) I will be going to home depot for a new can, it looks great right now, I just lightly sand between 5 coats to reduce and eliminate and rough spots... As for selecting the stain, I went with BoostnBenz recommendation to go with the Minwax's Dark Walnut. It is a little too dark to match the other pieces in my car, but I can see myself redoing the ac unit area's wood and the ash tray and lid.... I love the darker wood's look now! Sorry, I cannot post pictures right now, the camera is in Dubai with my parents! |
#9
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I did the same thing on mine, except I didn't bother to stain the wood. I just used about 4 coats of spar urethane without staining. The result is that the wood now looks far brighter and more natural. It actually looks like wood now - the grain is very apparent. People compliment me all the time: "WOW! Is that real wood?" One person told me he thought the original darker, ultra-shiny stuff looked fake, like something you'd find in a KIA. If I find time to take a picture, I'll post one.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#10
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The hazard and window switches fit very tightly inside wood cut-outs.
Any particular method to prevent urethane topcoat from "overflowing", thereby preventing the switches from fitting back in? Perhaps sanding or steel wooling between coats to prevent buildup??? |
#11
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I like the darker wood personally, but I guess going without stain would make it obvious that it is real wood....
As for getting the switch holes clean, I use a popsicle stick to just scrape off the liquid finish, so far, the surface of the wood is still undisturbed around those areas... |
#12
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All Done!
Hey guys, I finally finished refinishing my wood!
Hope you enjoy the results! Cost: 2 cans of Minwax Spar Urathane: $12.93 1 can of Minwax Dark Walnut stain: $3.21 2 cans of Kleen STRIPPER ( ): $13.57 1 Performance Select (Home Depot) paint brush: $3.54 Total: $33.25 + lots of time (2 hours of direct work, days waiting) Still saved a lot! Dealership piece cost way too much! |
#13
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Very nice. You've inspired me to begin refinishing my own. I've procured a zebrano "tester" piece from a junkyard and am using it to experiment with.
You are correct when you say that the stripper takes numerous attempts. "15 minutes" is BS. It has taken no less than 8 or 10 applications for complete removal of varnish/topcoat. I think the biggest challenge will be matching exact shade of existing wood. I have no plans to refinish all wood, only the shift surround console. One last question....Did final application of urethane darken/lighten (change) stain color at all? Thanks again and great job. |
#14
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Good questions!
Sorry, this is a bit long!
Thank you sir! You are wise to test first, I just plowed right in, I got lucky I did not mess up the wood... Yeah, like BenznBoost said, the 15 minute time is just to get you to buy more product... I used #000 steel wool and wiped down the wood after a 1.75 hour wait time... The finish comes off like goo, real nasty goo. BE SURE TO WEAR VERY NICE AND THICK GLOVES!!!!!! It took me about 6 coatings, the can was very close to empty.... Another thing to make sure is to remove as much plastic frame pieces from the wood piece as possible, the stripper will literally melt it! (I tested on a shattered pool vacuum wheel nut, it almost evaporated!) I did not remove to front 2 hooks, but after I sprayed on another coat of the stripper, I used a spray bottle to wet down those pieces, just in case overspray got to them... The final application of the spar urathane did lighten the wood (golden/orangey sparkle), but in a very good way. the wood has a nice reflective look that changes as you look at it, every angle reflects, it look so fanastic, I find myself just walking in circles around the finished piece! Something you would never find in a KIA!!! Yet another tip... When you are applying the spar urathane, it is inevitable that dust and other small particles will ge lodged in the wet finish, do not try to remove them, unless it is a very large piece that looks horrible (like an eyelash or cardboard box debris) If you must remove a piece, do it with a toothpick, or pair of tweezers, but please take your time! I placed the pieces in a cardboard box after spraying to prevent alot of debris from getting on the wood... I personally sanded the finish every 2 coats with 600 grit (dry) after the last coat has 24 hours to dry. If you do it before, yeah you may get faster, but the finish will appear soft and the sandpaper may actually warp the finish a little I did it everywhere, not just in the rough or imperfect spots! Then I used compressed air to blow off the sanded particles first before running my finger over all areas to get the remaining particles off. (after dipped in isoproply alchol, scrubbed, rinised, and dried). Don't worry, the "scratched" looking finish after sanding will disappear upon application of a new coat. Since the stain costs a mere $2.97 each, I guess you could buy 3 that you think will match your other trim pieces and just practice on an old piece of zebrano you have, that way you can be sure what color to pick... I used Dark Walnut by Minwax... Hope some of this helps! |
#15
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Excellent tips.
So you recommend removal of the black plastic trim pieces on underside? I noticed mine are affixed with tiny staples. Any trouble with removal? And how did you re-attach these pieces? keep 'em coming...Thanks. |
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