Do you think some clay and wax will fix this?

[Snoopy572]

Here are a few pics of my car...



Do I need a new paint job or do will I be ok if I just wash, clay, then wax?
The car was looking good as new last year, but I haven't waxed it in awhile. Have barely washed it actually. Now, I'm sick of it being like this. If I can get it looking good again, I won't neglect it. You can see the side panels are still nice and glossy, what would that say? The hood, top of the car, and the trunk are all faded. Part of the sides are as well.

So, what you guys think?

[Triple C]

Snoopy - My recommendation is to use some compound on the dull areas. I have had good success with the 3 level system Griot's Garage sells. To save your shoulders use an orbital buffer! Plus you will get more uniform results too.
Use the least abrasive compound 1st!! You can always go to more abrasive if that doesn't work. Good luck. And above all, take your time, don't rush.
C3

[Snoopy572]

Originally Posted by Triple C

Snoopy - My recommendation is to use some compound on the dull areas. I have had good success with the 3 level system Griot's Garage sells. To save your shoulders use an orbital buffer! Plus you will get more uniform results too.
Use the least abrasive compound 1st!! You can always go to more abrasive if that doesn't work. Good luck. And above all, take your time, don't rush.
C3

I can't find the 3 level system on the website. It sounds like with the orbital and looking at some of their prices, I may be in for quite a bit of money. So, do you think I should just take it to get it detailed and ask them to buff it out, possibly with some kind of compound? I guess if it needs a good buffing and not the clay and wax, I can return that stuff back to the store. I was hoping to have it nice and pretty before Sunday. Any other suggestions?

[Ferdman]

Snoopy572, what's the history of the paint on your 300E? Normally all the paint ages the same. It appears that the fenders have been repainted and not the hood. The website for Griot's Garage is griotsgarage.com and the 3 level system that Triple C mentioned is actually 3 different machine polishes for use with a ROB (random orbital buffer/polisher). You can do the job manually ... start with the least aggressive polishing compound you can find. If that isn't adequate go to a more aggressive polishing compound, then back to the less aggressive compound and finally a fine polish. Once the finish is as good as it's going to get then apply a high quality carnuba wax. It will take considerable time and effort to restore the appearance of your hood, especially if done without an ROB ... of course, that's assuming the paint isn't completely trashed by years of neglect.

[Snoopy572]

Originally Posted by Ferdman

Snoopy572, what's the history of the paint on your 300E? Normally all the paint ages the same. It appears that the fenders have been repainted and not the hood. The website for Griot's Garage is griotsgarage.com and the 3 level system that Triple C mentioned is actually 3 different machine polishes for use with a ROB (random orbital buffer/polisher). You can do the job manually ... start with the least aggressive polishing compound you can find. If that isn't adequate go to a more aggressive polishing compound, then back to the less aggressive compound and finally a fine polish. Once the finish is as good as it's going to get then apply a high quality carnuba wax. It will take considerable time and effort to restore the appearance of your hood, especially if done without an ROB ... of course, that's assuming the paint isn't completely trashed by years of neglect.

It's a 300CE and I'm not sure of the paint history. I assumed just recently that it has been repainted, becuase of the discoloration. I didn't think that was the case, becuause last summer it was beautiful and even across the whole car. The ROB seems pretty expensive. How much time do you think I'm looking at doing the polishing myself by hand? Could I go to a local store and get some polish and get similar results? If so, which types would you recommend. Also, I'm still open to taking it to a shop to get it done. I just don't want to spend more than 475-$85.... ($100 is doable, but pushing it). My father has a friend who details, buffs, polsihes and everything. He charges about $50 and does good work (does all the family vehicle). Just didn't want to wait that long, but it might be an option.

[Ferdman]

Snoopy572, I recommend letting your father's friend detail your car for $50, particularly if he's experienced detailing the paint on older Mercedes. He'll know what products work best on that color and paint condition. You can maintain the restored finish with regular washing, polishing and waxing.

[Snoopy572]

Originally Posted by Ferdman

Snoopy572, I recommend letting your father's friend detail your car for $50, particularly if he's experienced detailing the paint on older Mercedes. He'll know what products work best on that color and paint condition. You can maintain the restored finish with regular washing, polishing and waxing.

Yea, I already called him. The thing I was worried about most was if I needed a new paint job to get it nice and shiny again. I guess after I get it detailed I will know for sure. Does it look like the clear coat is gone off the paint or just polishing is needed? I will also ask the detailer once I meet up with him.
Thanks for all the help thus far.

[yal]

I had a friend whose Benz was like that. I used Meguiars deep crystal paint cleaner and it was like magic and we did it by hand. Try it or get the detailer to use a fine cut cleaner with an orbitor.

[Ferdman]

Snoopy572, it's difficult to tell the exact condition of the paint from a picture. The detailer should be able to evaluate how weathered or damaged the paint is and proceed from there. Get his opinion and expectations for how well the paint will respond to polishing, or compounding if it's required. Will he detail the entire car (interior and exterior) for $50 or simply the exterior ... regardless, $50 is a great deal if he does quality work.

[jonw440]

That paint can be save very easy!!
I saw this similar problem on another board.
I would purchase the Porter cable polisher(Perfectly safe for a novice to use.
Then polish with the SFX polishes.
The total amount will be around 250.00
BUT yoiu will now have the ability to keep the car looking perfect for as long as you own the car.
I know a detailer would chage at least 200 to fix this paint.
Hi,
I just wanted you to see the fantastic results I made on a friends oxidized Nissan Sentra.
The paint is full of scratches, and oxidised clear coat.

PC With SFX Pads

I polished on half of the hood with the PC using the 4" SFX spot pads.

I used SFX-1 with the orange pad, with the PC on 4.


The next stepafter wiping off the remaining polish) was changing the pad to the green pad and SFX-2.

The last step was SFX3 finishing polish and the blue pad.
Check out the results!!



I found out about these from autopia.
The reviews were what got me to try this system and it WORKS!!!!
Reviews on autopia

[Snoopy572]

Originally Posted by Ferdman

Snoopy572, it's difficult to tell the exact condition of the paint from a picture. The detailer should be able to evaluate how weathered or damaged the paint is and proceed from there. Get his opinion and expectations for how well the paint will respond to polishing, or compounding if it's required. Will he detail the entire car (interior and exterior) for $50 or simply the exterior ... regardless, $50 is a great deal if he does quality work.

Both interior and exterior. He used to have a shop beside the local Cadillac dealership and he would there cars. I think they went with someone else, so now he works out of his house. Either way, I've seen his work and have been happy with him. I get that rate, since him and my father are pretty cool.

[Snoopy572]

Just picked her up and she is looking good once again. I can now keep her maintained from here on out. The guy who did the detail whacked off my emblem with the buffer and has it gerry rigged. He will be purchasing a new one for me, so I didn't get too upset.
I think she is looking great. There are of course quite a few imperfections and she could use a nice paint job, but she's fine until then.
Thanks for the help guys.

[Chamorro]

Looks real good, especially for only $50.

Is your hood insulation in good condition? That could be one reason the hood degraded so quickly compared to the fenders.

[Ferdman]

Snoopy572, what a difference. Recommend leaving the paint as-is. A repaint will use water-based paint and clearcoat ... much softer and more fragile than the factory paint on your 300CE. I project that the paint on our 1998 E320 (31,000 miles) will have many more paint chips at 100,000 miles than our 1992 300CE (100,000 miles) has now due to the water-based paint on the post-1995 cars.

The tailpipe looks peculiar. Is it a stock exhaust system?

[brabus]

Bravo

Great work.

You should have seen my car when I first got it

The cracks in the paint filled with dirt making my paint look like an egg shell.

That's what happends to a car after sitting under a car for 10 years.

I spent forever getting the dirt out. Then I used the clay untill I couldent stand to di it anymore.

Buffed it with wax and now it looks brand new.

The down side is I have to rewax every month to keep the wax in the cracks and not the dirt.

i give it another 2 years before i get a new paint job