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  #1  
Old 07-07-2005, 03:19 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
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Refinishing W111 Wood Trim

Hello,

Can someone tell me how to strip the original clearcoat and how to refinish the wood trim.

I have a 1965 220Sb Everything has been restored and refinished with exception to the wood.

Thanks in Advance


Z

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  #2  
Old 07-07-2005, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 141
This is how I have done it. Use a good quality wood stripper and brush it on. The less physical work you do the better chance to save the laminate. You may have to apply several coats. I use steel wool to remove the loose varnish. The main point is to not damage the laminate so a fine steel wool is better then a coarse one and avoid being physical.

Once you get all the varnish off you could give it a very light sanding to remove any nicks or high spots, optional. Did I mention to be careful not to damage the laminate?

Wipe down all wood so its clean. Apply stain. You can brush it on or use an old cloth. The longer you let it sit the deeper the color. At this point in time you'll see different shade variations in the wood. Thats because you didn't listen when I said be careful with the laminate.

Wipe off excess. This is a learning exercise, so play around with the stain. If you don't like the look wipe the stain off, you may need to use spirits. You can also apply the stain unevenly in long lines to get a grain effect.

Let the stain dry. Then apply an indoor verathene varnish. DO NOT USE outdoor no matter how hard it says it is. The purpose of outdoor varnish is to be soft enough to expand and contract with temp. So how does it get hard? This is an oxymoronic statement: Hard finish oudoor varnish.

Use indoor verathene. Apply a light coat. The varnish should be absorbed by the wood. Follow the directions. The second coat usually needs to be applied within 2 or so hours. Apply the second coat. Keep applying coats as long as you get a finish. If you only get two coats, ok. 5 coats great. Let fully dry for a few days.
Get 600, 1200 and 2400 grit sandpaper. Block sand it with water, keep the temp down otherwise the varnish will tear. Once you get all the high spots, runs, etc out with the 600. Now go to the 1200. Once you get all the high spots/runs that you think you got with the 600, go to the 2400.
At this point you will have a beautifully smooth but awfully dull piece.
Buy a product called Rottenstone, its finely ground up pumice, probably 3000 grit. Rub until you just can't rub any more. The more you rub the more you see the spots you missed.

At this point decide if you want to start over and get those high spots/waviness out or leave it alone.

Start with an easy piece.

I can't guarrantee that everything I said here is correct. There are probably some points I am missing. Don't expect perfection the first time. There is a reason wood refinishers get $$$.
The critical point is do not tear into the laminate otherwise your screwed.
Leonard
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2005, 05:50 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 457
Wink Another option for Mercedes Wood

When I had this chore to perform on my 76 450SEL, I opted for new Walnut Veneer. You can buy this real Walnut Veneer on the internet for a reasonable price and simply press it down with the self adhesive on the back -- after peeling off the protective paper layer. You do need to remove the old lacquer on the present wood, but you don't have to be so careful with the original laminate. I chipped mine off with an Xacto knife in fairly large pieces, since it was brittle to begin with. If you cut the walnut carefully to size and apply it as prescribed, it makes a nice new finish, which you can then stain, etc. etc.

It is difficult to put this veneer around curved dash ends, unless you steam it a little to soften it slightly; otherwise -- it goes on like a charm!
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1999 Mercedes ML320 87K
1992 Mercedes 300CE 89K
1995 Corvette 29K -- Sold Dec 09
1989 Mercedes 420SEL 99K -- (Sold 4/08)
1968 Mercedes 230S (106K) (Sold 9/06))
1976 Mercedes 450SEL 130K (Just sold - 06)
1961 Mercedes 220Sb (sold years ago)
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Old 07-08-2005, 10:56 AM
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Thanks for all of the valuable info

Gentlemen, thank you for the insight and precious info. I was about to attempt the project in a completely different approach but now I know to watch out for the veneer and essentially take my time.

Once again Thank you
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2005, 03:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 20
good reference site

take a moment and check out the following web site it has a great, detailed example of how to.

www.220seb.com

good luck and we're waiting on the pictures!

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